Fuel sending unit question (1 Viewer)

[VitaminC914]

I noticed that my fuel gauge isn't working. Naturally, I assumed it was the sending unit. I unplugged the plastic plug only to find that one of the tabs is pretty rusted out. The other tab is good. As I was getting ready to start using PB Blaster on the bolts, I noticed that the wire that connects to it is broken. I think that was the main reason why my gauge wasn't working. I do have a nice used replacement that I got for $50. Is it worth trying to put a new one in? or can I solder a new tab on the existing unit? If so, will it work? I am mainly concerned about trying to get the 6 or so rusted bolts, but if I can get them out, then it may be worth it to have a newer unit.
Thoughts? Ideas? Points of rebuttal?

 

[OSS]

I haven't looked at the fuel sender connection in decades, so you'll have to help me here.

If the broken tab on the sender cap used to connect to the same piece of metal as the remaining tab (two tabs connected to a common piece of metal) then you don't need a double socket plug.

If the broken tab is essentially the same tab as the good one, the two wires in the wired plug can be joined together and connected to the remaining good plug.

You're not going to be able to solder that rusty thing to have any strength - if it could be soldered at all... with a LOT of heat. Gotta realize it's a gas tank with fuel & vapors inside it.

If you've got a good spare used sender... what are you saving it for? Nows the time to replace the old one.

Soak the rusty screws on the sender cap w penetrant of course. Place the screwdriver in the slots then tap down on the screwdriver handle with a hammer. Tap tap tap. Set up a vibration to crack the rust to allow the penetrant to migrate down the threads. Be patient. Give the penetrant time to travel.

If it feels like the screw won't budge after an hour or so of soaking & tapping, consider getting a hand impact hammer screwdriver before stripping out the slots with the regular screwdriver.

 

[VitaminC914]

I will have to look at my used unit and see how it is wired. I think they both are on the same metal tab. I am wondering why they would have 2 wires going to it if they connect?
I am having my mechanic replace the sending unit or at least attempt to remove it. I will continue to soak in PB Blaster. I don't have an impact screwdriver so I will try to tap method you described.

 

[woytovich]

Clean the rusty screw heads as best you can with a wire brush. Dig around the edge to clean out as much gunk as you can between the screw and the piece then follow the instructions above, only I'd suggest even more patience. Tap tap tap... soak in PB Blaster (or similar) cover with a rag, paper towel and a plastic bag to keep the penetrant from evaporating too quickly. Tap tap tap soak soak soak. Give it a day or 3 (what's the rush after all?). The impact screwdriver is a good idea - try to pick pick out the Phillips head "X" so the bit can bite as much as possible! I used my 18v Ridgid Impact driver (screw gun) with a good amount of my considerable mass pressing the bit into the screw and 4 of the screws came out. I got the rest out with a pair of Vice Grips on the screw head.

Tap tap tap soak tap soak soak tap tap tap....