Fuel pump plug?

[mtnphilosopher]

Hello all, and a Happy New Year,

Taking the holiday to run through a few things before (hopefully) returning the 2F to it's rightful place in the engine bay this weekend.

My question of the moment is regarding the two fuel pumps I have at my disposal: #1 that I've been running without issue, but has some damage on the arm (due to mucked up cam lobe), and #2 from a donor2F that has no such damage.

Running through the FSM diagnostic on each, #1 seems to pass better, as #2 takes about a second for the arm to return after depressing it. I inadvertently put my finger over a hole in the pump body of #1, and realized a vacuum that held the arm from returning. On #2, there is a rubberish plug in that location, that seems held in by a spring or some such.

Here are the suspects/candidates (#1 on the left, #2 on the right):

Closer #1:

Closer #2:

Any thoughts on which I should run? I'd prefer #2 because of the condition of the arm (and aesthetically), but function beats out form any day.

Thanks much,

Brad

 

[Output Shaft]

If I had to choose #1 or #2, I vote for #2 and carry #1 in the car as a spare (along with a gasket or two).
If I had an extra hundy laying around, I would get THIS instead.

 

[mtnphilosopher]

That's my inclination as well. The rebuild budget has, well, long ago lost any semblance of a budget -- not that the thought of new OE didn't cross my mind. They're purty....

The good thing is that any failure with #2 should be fairly apparent, and quickly, when it starts a-pumpin'.

Still, the little plug gives me pause. It could just be a little booger of silicone, I'm just not clear if it's serving a (necessary/important) function.

Thanks, OS.

 

[Output Shaft]

Pick that booger out. It is a drain hole and is designed to weep snot when things start-a-leakin. It may have been oozing already.

The good thing is that any failure with #2 should be fairly apparent, and quickly, when it starts a-pumpin'.

Maybe. But not necessarily readily. A leaky diaphragm can also pump fuel into the crankcase.... & eventually you might notice the oil level on the dipstick going up....only after the engine has been running for god-knows-how-long with oil diluted with considerable quantities of gasoline. That's not good in anyone's book.

Been there, done that.

 

[Chris Cahill]

I would shelve them and get a new one. Not worth risking pumping gas into the crankcase. Unlike most other parts, I have had good luck with the replacement that O'Reily sells for about $50.

 

[mtnphilosopher]

Roger that. I'm going pick my booger, hook up all the lines, install the pump, and rotate the crank/cam manually to see if there's any seepage either inside or outside the block. Given, this will be pumping about 10 vs. 2500 times/minute....

Thanks again

 

[lovetoski]

Remember that there's a spacer needed between the fuel pump and the block. It's pretty thick...maybe close to 1/2"

 

[mtnphilosopher]

I have a brand spankin' new OE spacer from Onur. It looks like the PO forgot it at some point in the past, evidenced by chunks of an old pump arm in the oil pan, a groove in the old cam lobe, and the slight damage on the #1 pump arm.

I do have a question about the gaskets, however. It seems from what I've read that the OE spacer has the gaskets already attached, and that's what it looks like, but the old pumps had the blue (felpro?) gaskets in addition to the (maybe aftermarket?) spacer.

So, additional gaskets or no with the OE spacer?

Thanks much,
B

 

[DickM]

My OE spacer was just that, a spacer. I ordered two gaskets with it which were, well, two gaskets.
90923-06009 insulator
90923-05019 gasket

 

[mtnphilosopher]

Think I found the solution:

Both gasket and insulator PNs superseded by/combined into 90823-06010.

 

[Live to Ski]

Just installed a new fuel pump from Beno. The isolator comes in 2 flavors...1) with 2 gaskets pre-attached, 2) w/o gaskets (but you will need 'em). Apparently, the isolator with the gaskets is way less expensive than the isolator/gaskets seperate.

 

[mtnphilosopher]

Perfect -- and per the other thread, torqued to 9-13 newtonians with a 1/8th thermodynamic wrench while standing on your head juggling the a/c canister should yield perpetual motion from the 2F. Right?