Fuel pump or coil/igniter? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Threads
9
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94
Location
Clark, Colorado
My FJ60 has been running great all summer, no vapor lock issues since I put a cooler thermostat in a year ago. Then today, without warning, cruising around 45 mph, and slowing to round a 90 degree curve, it just stopped running. I had time to get over in the gravel and pop the hood, etc. This happened once before three years ago, and it was the fuel pump. Put another in, been fine since. When it used to vapor lock, shooting a little starting fluid would get it going for a couple seconds, then it’d die, and would only start when the fuel was liquid, about 1/2 an hour. Anyway, a Good Samaritan pulled over, and towed me home. That could be another thread, but I will stick to my problem.
After cooling down all day, I went out and pulled the air cleaner and filter off, and found a small mouse nest. Cleaned it out, then sprayed starting fluid in the carb. Nothing at all. It was as if there was absolutely no spark coming from the coil. None at all. My previous experience was that when the pump was bad, it would still turn over. But this has me thinking it must be the coil and or the igniter. Just thought I’d ask here since a lot of you guys know a lot more about this stuff than I do. Thanks in advance. Mr Manos
 
Exactly what my mechanic did. I live at 7,800’ so it’s pretty cold here except for July August September. And I don’t drive over the continental divide east of here. My LC is what’s called a “Valley Truck”, meaning it doesn’t leave the Yampa valley. I’m not worried about the part getting fried by heat. Thanks for linking that thread.
Mechanic did find used oem igniter, but thought $500 was too much. There’s no specific Land Cruiser shop or mechanic in my town even though there’s probably ten or fifteen Fj60s here.
 
I solved the problem with no fuel in my fuel bowl. My needle valve plunger was sticking because the viton tip had a groove in it. I put a new one in and blew into the fuel inlet port why changing the tilt of the airhorn/float to verify that it was no longer sticking. I also adjusted my float a little on the rich side using a stack of feeler gauge blades that added up to 6 mm. Now I have fuel dead center in the sight glass while running.

This video also helped explain the black magic of float adjustment:



How to inspect and adjust float level
 

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