ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Do you at least get power to the cluster with IG ON?
Fuel pump issues or problems with electrical? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hickuptruck
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Do the cluster lights all go out when you attempt to engage the starter? Or do they remain well lit?
Yes it does. Some lights blink as it clicked and if I keep cranking, all lights will be off and it'll stop clicking. I also noticed that the VGRS light blinkinng at the beginning..
Sound like weak battery. But you said no clicking earlier. This is confusing.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
^ I agree. With a healthy battery my cluster remains lit when the starter motor is chugging away
When you stall, what happens? Is it the engine cutting out and you get some lights on the dash like the key is in the on position?
Doesn’t sound exactly like my problem, but similar...? Mine ending up being incorrect routing of the crank position wire (and oil sending unit in the same loom) after a timing belt replacement. Serpentine belt had rubbed through the loom and the wire, and it would short out every so often. LC would stall, I’d pull over, and it would start up and go for a little bit longer before the belt touched it just right and then short out again and stall. I still haven’t driven it enough to know 100% certain that rerouting it has fixed it, but I was seeing bare metal wire and it needed fixing regardless. Maybe yours is worn through so much that it’s disrupting the crank position signal? Not sure if that would show in tech stream as I don’t have that.
Doesn’t sound exactly like my problem, but similar...? Mine ending up being incorrect routing of the crank position wire (and oil sending unit in the same loom) after a timing belt replacement. Serpentine belt had rubbed through the loom and the wire, and it would short out every so often. LC would stall, I’d pull over, and it would start up and go for a little bit longer before the belt touched it just right and then short out again and stall. I still haven’t driven it enough to know 100% certain that rerouting it has fixed it, but I was seeing bare metal wire and it needed fixing regardless. Maybe yours is worn through so much that it’s disrupting the crank position signal? Not sure if that would show in tech stream as I don’t have that.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Just remove, reseat, and retighten the battery cables. It is OK to Incredible Hulk the fastening nuts a bit for a secure fit.
Edit: it sure seems like a poor electrical connection, somewhere, to me. It may be ground, it may be power, but something is not making secure contact.
- Thread starter
- #50
So when I stalled, it was either accelerating out of a parking lot onto a 45mph road, stalled at 25 mph. Or it was coming to a stop sign where it didn't even stutter, and just turned off with key in position.
Checked all my wiring near the belts and didn't see any looms that had any evidence of touching. I've since gone 350 miles since my last engine dying without any issues
I meant, does everything else electrical stay on? With mine I was at speed like you said, could be doing 20, 30, 40 mph and the engine would die, all gauges dropping to zero, but I’d get the battery, AT fluid temp, and check engine light. Radio/emergency flashers would work. What I think the problem was — again need more testing to make sure — was as soon as the short would happen on the crank position sensor, the engine is turned off but everything else electrical still worked and I was able to re-start the vehicle (again, presumably after the belt was no longer directly touching the exposed wire).
A little update on my chase for the issue for future reference. I don't know if my logic is sound or not but i'm suspecting that the starter is probably not the cause of my problem but it is the end point. The starter is getting its power from the battery at high current to mechanically crank the engine and when I tried to that i heard a click then the whole cluster just went off indicating that either there's a short or an open from the batter to the starter. This morning, I removed the starter relay and try to start the car and to my surprise, the cluster is not going off and all the lights are functional as it should. This tells me that the starter is draining so much power that trip a switch/relay and probably it starts with this starter relay. I took out the starter relay to test it but mine relay doesn't look anything like the one mentioned in this thread Need help - Test Starter Relay so I put the starter relay back and tapped it a little bit and lord and behold, the car starts like normally. Normally, it would only start once then stop so I tried to do it for 5 times and no more issue.
- Thread starter
- #53
Yeah, everything stays on in my car. Like if it were the key to on position. So I'd get CEL, Battery, and AT lights.
@medtro did you try this hook-up/set-up yet? Did any of the 3 fit properly between filer and rail feed line connects?
So I lost throttle after 3 hrs on the interstate. Pulled over and it died. After short time cranked with slight hesitation.
Here’s the weird part: Fuel gauge reads empty but I have half a tank.
Drive slow to next exit and fill up. Cranks normal fuel gauge back to full (took 10 gal confirming half tank). Drive 30 miles home no issues. No issues for two days daily driving.
The theory is that the pump is overheating and also caused the fuel gauge sending unit to overheat/misread.
How do I check the electric load on the pump? Any other suggestions? Tempted to just throw a new pump at it and see how we do. 2007 w 207k miles and no record of fuel pump.
Here’s the weird part: Fuel gauge reads empty but I have half a tank.
Drive slow to next exit and fill up. Cranks normal fuel gauge back to full (took 10 gal confirming half tank). Drive 30 miles home no issues. No issues for two days daily driving.
The theory is that the pump is overheating and also caused the fuel gauge sending unit to overheat/misread.
How do I check the electric load on the pump? Any other suggestions? Tempted to just throw a new pump at it and see how we do. 2007 w 207k miles and no record of fuel pump.
"Typical" bad 06-07 fuel pump signs are: After running engine with a load in high RPM, like pulling up a hill. We let of gas pedal dropping RPMs, and engine dies. This happens most often on a hot sunny day. If hooked to tech stream at time of event, we often see lean BK 1 & BK 2 as it happens.
You may have something else going on. But with the 07 w/207k can't hurt to replace fuel pump. So I'd just go ahead an change the fuel pump and tank seal, along with fuel filter (engine compartment). Especially if the "typical" symptoms! The OEM fuel pump comes with sock (tank pickup filter), the Denso does not. Once tank open you can look around in tank, through the top (fuel pump mounting port). You'd be surprised at what some have found in our fuel tanks.
While in there, you can inspect the float, wires and contact. You may even want to have more parts standing by. Like those fuel gauge related which are on/in fuel pump assembly hanger.
You can run fuel pressure test. But it rarely shows our funky 06-07 as bad. It's heat related which increases resistance in wiring and in pump motor. We also are now looking at the fuel pump resistor. But here's the rub, we can't find a replacement. At this point it's been reported when guys do a build and ad air compressor on RH fender well. They air compressor mounted to close to fuel pump resistor's heat sink.
You may have something else going on. But with the 07 w/207k can't hurt to replace fuel pump. So I'd just go ahead an change the fuel pump and tank seal, along with fuel filter (engine compartment). Especially if the "typical" symptoms! The OEM fuel pump comes with sock (tank pickup filter), the Denso does not. Once tank open you can look around in tank, through the top (fuel pump mounting port). You'd be surprised at what some have found in our fuel tanks.
While in there, you can inspect the float, wires and contact. You may even want to have more parts standing by. Like those fuel gauge related which are on/in fuel pump assembly hanger.
You can run fuel pressure test. But it rarely shows our funky 06-07 as bad. It's heat related which increases resistance in wiring and in pump motor. We also are now looking at the fuel pump resistor. But here's the rub, we can't find a replacement. At this point it's been reported when guys do a build and ad air compressor on RH fender well. They air compressor mounted to close to fuel pump resistor's heat sink.
Thank you! I was leaning towards replacing the pump so this validates that thought. I also am of the mind to replace other parts while in there. Do you think the assembly covers that? Does it come with the tank seal? Based on another thread I may try to get a new wiring harness too. Seems like denso is a fine option as long as the black plastic housing is still good and I can either reuse the strainer or find a knock off new one (one possible option on that other thread).
I've never had to do more than replace the pump and tank seal. So I've never studied the entry assemble. But I have seen some in mud need to rework contacts on assemble. Search mud and I'm sure you'll find some good info. Also study parts diagram for your years 100 series, as we've difference through the years.
If you find a good sock (tank filter), for the 06-07 Denso fuel pump. Please let me known. I've not!
Tip:
Adding your year, miles and build (if any) info in signture line, is very helpful to all readers.
If you find a good sock (tank filter), for the 06-07 Denso fuel pump. Please let me known. I've not!
Tip:
Adding your year, miles and build (if any) info in signture line, is very helpful to all readers.
