fuel problem "fixed" by B+ and Fp contacts

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Devil's Slide Doug

Devil's Slide Doug

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Mar 17, 2006
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1,915
Location
Pacifica CA
My intermittent stalling problem (1994 22re minitruck) has gotten worse. It is no longer intermittent. I can start the truck and it will run for a short time before dying.
If I jump the B+ and Fp contacts in the diagnostic port the truck starts and runs normally. As soon as I unplug the code reader (paper clip) the engine dies.
I guess the next step is to determine if the afm is faulty or the fuel pump relay (located in either the kick panel or behind the glove box) is bad.
Any other ideas? Am i on the right track?
 
Not sure how your 1994 is wired. My 1985 gets power directly from the Circuit Opening Relay. Check your wiring diagram. Same goes for my 3FE. As best as I can tell the check connector bypasses the relay, so that might be your problem.
 
I have been studying the fsm.
I will check the afm connector.
test/meter the circuit opening relay.
test/meter the afm.
If the tests are inconclusive I will have to swap the relay first since it is a cheaper part and is necessary for the afm's fuel pump switch to turn on the pump.
If I determine it is the afm switch I will most likely hotwire the pump via the leads to the test port which will give me an opportunity to install a kill switch for "security" purposes.
 
*The relay, isn't that one idea we already thought to try, have you swapped it out yet? Also recheck those connectors, I mean physically pull them out of the connector and then move the spades around to see if they're corroded out or just fatigued so bad they're loosing continuity.

Here ya'all go for a quick view of the schematic of the circuit. I also remember seeing two recently with bad connectors at the top of the tank sending unit that were fatigued to heck..consider the fact of how much salted air it sees where you live.

Also, reminder, I have some boat loads of free time right now until I get back to working full time. All I charge for my time is a soda and ribs from Gorilla.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked the afm connector and it was sparkly clean. The contacts that control the fuel pump also appeared good when I metered them for continuity and moved the afm flap with my hand. Next step was the relay and the pictures should speak for themselves. The plastic cover of the relay trapped the water in the relay. It was literally sloshing. Maybe a cheap trick for others is to drill a small drain hole in this cover. I need to order a new relay and I need to fix the leak which I believe is coming through a firewall seam near the cabin intake vent area rather than than the actual windshield seal. It is a possibility that I cracked the seam sealer pounding on the firewall for tire clearance? btw, thanks for the offers of help Norcalborn.
IMGP0040.webp
IMGP0041.webp
 
Woot, Pacific Onshore Breeze, every time. :) I wonder if it's safe to seal it all up around the base? Jeff at Toy Connection has a couple of spares and I've some of the new seam sealer. Visit Tuesday?? ;)
 
Not familiar with Jeff at Toy Connection. I just got a job that will be going through the week so I will need a rain check on the Tuesday visit. As for the leak, I will need to spend a bit more time with a hose and a flashlight (and possibly a mirror) to confirm if the leak is from the windshield, a pillar or seam of firewall and vent area (cowling?). I might have a fender removal project coming up in order to seal things.
 
Maybe this is the problem?
jasond said:
There is a TSB toyota put out about this water leak...go to your dealer and ask for a print out of TSB BO02-00 if you want to do it yourself, since it is only covered for 3 years or 36k miles. The TSB will have you remove your wiper blades and cowl cover to try and seal up what they could not at the factory.
Click to expand...
 
Skip the hose and switch to a boogie bottle (those little nose suck things for babies) filled with some baby powder and a hair dryer. Use a mask so you don't get it all up in your nostrils and coat the outside areas in powder and hit the area for a little bit with the hairdryer on low. The powder is usually fine enough that when it makes it through a crack or whatever it'll leave a trace trail leading right to the leak spot.
 
The jumper is removed and the new relay is in place and all is good. I still need to fix the leak. I think I will seal the vents at the back of the cab with some duck tape and turn the fan on to high/fresh air and then paint the seams/windshield seal with soapy water and with some luck The source of the leak will be obvious where the bubbles appear.
 
douglashuft said:
The jumper is removed and the new relay is in place and all is good. I still need to fix the leak. I think I will seal the vents at the back of the cab with some duck tape and turn the fan on to high/fresh air and then paint the seams/windshield seal with soapy water and with some luck The source of the leak will be obvious where the bubbles appear.
Click to expand...

Good idea, hyperbaric chamber. :wrench:
 
Bubbles at the lower passenger corner of the windshield. Windshield has lifetime warranty against leaks unless the leak is caused by damage or rust. Of course we all know they scraped the paint installing the windshield which is why it is now probably rusted and leaking. It will be a fight. Any easy reliable way of fixing a leak? A magic elixir?
 
The glass installer who came by to check the leak actually agreed with me that the previous installer had scratched the windshield frame and not properly "primed" the damage which caused rust. With his recommendation/help the glass company is actually footing the bill to have a local body shop repair the rust damage (including painting the a pillars and roof) before installing a new window. I actually expected a fight from the glass company and am amazed that they would admit to shoddy work and make it right.
 
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