Alright, so after some serious troubleshooting, I think that I am about to get my 62 and running again. I need to replace the fuel pump, but in the process, realized that all the connectors on the line leaving the pump were completely rusted together. I'm planning on replacing the entire line leaving the fuel pump to the point where it hits the body. First things first, any tips generally? I'm thinking of going with steel braided line that will attach to the two inches or so of old line I have left coming out of the fuel pump (gave it a good clean cut to get the fuel pump out)...I know there are some good threads. On this subject, but I couldn't find a solid thread on braided lines. I it is out there, post away. Otherwise, any tips would be appreciated.
Fuel lines
- Thread starter Gardenplot
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
In order to replace the fuel pump, you will have to drop the gas tank. The alternative is to cut an access hole in the floor (something I was not willing to do). You will have to drain the tank before dropping it. Be careful, the fumes are extremely flammable. Mine had about 5 gallons in it, and the gas fumes were so strong it was scary. Work outside or make sure the garage door is open. I even had fans going around the area to move the fumes away. The key to getting the tank out is to remove the rear sway bar brackets. This will allow the tank to slide down and out after you've removed the straps and other hard and soft line connections.
As for the fuel lines, if I recall correctly, there is a threaded fitting approximately six inches long that connects between the fuel pump and the main fuel line that runs along the frame. Mine was so rusted that when I attempted to break it loose, it twisted the fuel line causing it to break. I then had to get a used line to replace the main line that runs along the frame--a real pain. Plan for the worst.
As an aside, while I had the tank out, I cleaned it up, shot it with a coat SEM Rust-Shield, and gave it a final topcoat of 3M professional undercoating. Looked great when it was done. I also took the opportunity to replace all the soft lines coming off of the tank as well as the main filler hose (mine was hard as a rock). Good luck.
As for the fuel lines, if I recall correctly, there is a threaded fitting approximately six inches long that connects between the fuel pump and the main fuel line that runs along the frame. Mine was so rusted that when I attempted to break it loose, it twisted the fuel line causing it to break. I then had to get a used line to replace the main line that runs along the frame--a real pain. Plan for the worst.
As an aside, while I had the tank out, I cleaned it up, shot it with a coat SEM Rust-Shield, and gave it a final topcoat of 3M professional undercoating. Looked great when it was done. I also took the opportunity to replace all the soft lines coming off of the tank as well as the main filler hose (mine was hard as a rock). Good luck.
OE fuel plumbing has worked pretty well for quite a while. Adapting in something else is usually a PITA if done right. I would replace any suspect parts with OE parts. If those are not available then a discussion about what to replace it with and how is merited.
Agree with ntsqd, new lines are hard to do properly. Also expensive...
I twisted apart a line like bapmia when I dropped my tank and decided I might as well replace all the lines after looking more closely at their condition. I ran braided line nearly the entire length for delivery because I got a good deal on some. While I was at it, I installed a pressure gauge inline for future troubleshooting. I also made an access hatch so I wouldn't have to drop that tank again!
All-in I spent a couple hundred on all the hardware and a flaring tool, whereas a new OE line would have been about $20-30.
I twisted apart a line like bapmia when I dropped my tank and decided I might as well replace all the lines after looking more closely at their condition. I ran braided line nearly the entire length for delivery because I got a good deal on some. While I was at it, I installed a pressure gauge inline for future troubleshooting. I also made an access hatch so I wouldn't have to drop that tank again!
All-in I spent a couple hundred on all the hardware and a flaring tool, whereas a new OE line would have been about $20-30.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks for the advice fellas. The sway bar to came after I came to that knowledge through blood sweat and tears...really does drop right out. I'll call for the o e line today. Much like everyone else I twisted the old line trying to disconnect it so it's gotta be replaced now. One other quick question. What do the wide clear lines actually do?
- Thread starter
- #6
Meant sway bar tip.
