Fuel Injector Wires (1 Viewer)

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Coeur D Alene, Idaho
Hello,

I disconnected the wiring harness and found that the wire burnt was the wire (or six wires) going to the fuel injectors. I'd like to replace the wire from the special plastic connector but don't see a way to remove and replace the wire from the connector. I could cut the wire back a few inches and make the connection there, and the wires look good at that point, but I'd ideally like to replace the entire length all the way up to the plastic connector that clips on to the injector. Does anyone know if the connectors with a length of wire are available?

Thanks
 
Can you post a picture of the connector front and back? There is usually a small slot that you can put a paper clip or small screwdriver down to release the connector
 
You might find this thread helpful

 
heres a video of how to do it, i recommend using a hooked pick-style tool like shown in this.

While you're at it, just buy new connectors as well
 
If you are going to build your own then you can start searching with sumitomo and yazaki brands.
 
heres a video of how to do it, i recommend using a hooked pick-style tool like shown in this.

While you're at it, just buy new connectors as well

Hi, did you find new connectors. I have an 88 and i think my connectors are ok but if they're easy to get i might replace them. My wires to each fuel injector are burnt and I'm replacing them with new wires.
 
Can you post a picture of the connector front and back? There is usually a small slot that you can put a paper clip or small screwdriver down to release the connector
I solved the problem by buying all new connectors. Now I've got another hurdle. A yellow connector that has burnt wires. I can't figure out if our how the word come out. A couple of the wires go to the diagnostic plug and the really bad one goes to the fuel injectors. I need to get these wires out.

16195770489396857718771111740855.jpg


16195770903503289278592686225322.jpg
 
Those spade terminals look something like this:

1619624003110.png


This is the little locking tab that you have to depress in order to pop the connectors out of the plastic housing

1619624095810.png


There are tool kits available for this but I have had good luck using a large sized safey pin......you need something small enough to fit in the slot but stiff enough to depress the tab. It helps to push the connector forwards slightly as sometimes the little locking tabs dig into the plastic. Once you think you have the tab depressed you should be able to easily pull it out the back of the plastic housing.
 
If you look at the front of your plug:

1619624542615.png


the shape of the slots that the connectors go into looks something like this:

1619624569572.png


the red arrow points to where you need to put your tool into to depress the little locking tap so you can pull the connectors out. The first one is always the hardest until you succesfuly do it and realize its actually quite easy.
 
Those spade terminals look something like this:

View attachment 2659168

This is the little locking tab that you have to depress in order to pop the connectors out of the plastic housing

View attachment 2659171

There are tool kits available for this but I have had good luck using a large sized safey pin......you need something small enough to fit in the slot but stiff enough to depress the tab. It helps to push the connector forwards slightly as sometimes the little locking tabs dig into the plastic. Once you think you have the tab depressed you should be able to easily pull it out the back of the plastic housing.
I searched the TE site the other day for those and couldn't find them. Do you remember the part number?
 
I was just randomly googling for a good picture of a spade terminal. but a quick search I found this. not sure if its for the wire size you need but i bet you can track from here

HERE
 
@Coolerman would be the man to ask about the correct terminals. Generally you want to measure the width and length of the spade to find the right replacement. Sometimes pushing down the lock pin and pull forward a little BEFORE you try and push the terminal back through the connector does the trick. Often the lock tab is pushed up tight against the plastic connector housing from use. Pulling it forward a tad helps free it for movement.
 
Those look like .250" yazaki spade terminals. You would need to take one out to verify exactly what you need.
 

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