Fuel filter location on ‘82 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[pennywallin]

Where is the fuel filter located on a 1982 FJ40? It will start when gas is manually put into the carburetor, but then it quits. Hope it’s an easy fix since it is my snowplow vehicle and I live in an area that can get a lot of snow from September to May.

 

[fjc-man]

Penny, you could also post on risingsun4x4club.org for help. Lots of members all over Colorado.

 

[pennywallin]

Penny, you could also post on risingsun4x4club.org for help. Lots of members all over Colorado.

Thank you for that suggestion. Everyone here has been wonderful and I appreciate all the help!!

 

[Pighead]

It sounds as if Penny knows which end of a hammer to hold, knows what a carb and fuel pump look like and is willing to crawl under her rig. We have walked much less qualified individuals through much more complex challenges than (what is probably) a simple fuel delivery problem.
What's that ancient saying? "Change someone's fuel filter and it'll run for another 10 or 12k miles or thereabouts: but teach someone to change a fuel filter and it'll run forever"
Or something like that

 

[Pighead]

Here's something Penny, a swell diagnostic tool and something that you should make a habit of checking every time you open the hood, once it's running.
The Porthole Window.
It's a porthole window. In the front of the carb. It shows how much gas is in the float bowl, which is where the gas sits just before it goes down through guts of the carb. You want that window half full. If it's half full, or pretty close, your fuel delivery system is working just right. Too full or not full enough are things to be addressed.
This is what mine looks like, yours may look different but will be in the same place. Clean it off. Yours is probably empty. It can be filled thru the slanty brass tubes you see when looking down the carb throat.

 

[John McVicker]

@pennywallin please see my EDIT in post 8.

I did not give you very clear instructions and have tried to make it easier to follow. Hopefully it will now be easier for you to complete this important 1st step tomorrow.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thank you for that suggestion. Everyone here has been wonderful and I appreciate all the help!!

@pennywallin please see my EDIT in post 8.

I did not give you very clear instructions and have tried to make it easier to follow. Hopefully it will now be easier for you to complete this important 1st step tomorrow.

Thanks John , Your aways a asset and Helpfull Fellow MUD Buddy here on the FORUM , and constantly helping Others with SOLID , Concrete advise by the FSM booK


i have personally learned many things from you and your Post's over the years ....


simply said

THANKS !

kindly , matt .........

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thank you for that suggestion. Everyone here has been wonderful and I appreciate all the help!!

how far are you from SALIDA CO. ?

Brandon and Classic Cruisers are there , they have a fully staffed Vintage toyota shop ands service and parts that might be able to meet all or some of your current diagnostic and possible repair and or remody needs ?


here is there LINK

good luck

matt

Classic Cruisers

Classic Cruisers

classiccruisers.com

Mechanical Services

Toyota Land Cruiser routine maintenance. Power steering upgrades. Disc brake conversions. Engine rebuilding and conversions. Transmission and transfer case resealing and rebuilding. Cummins turbo diesel RePowering.

classiccruisers.com

Classic Cruisers
160 Pahlone Parkway
Poncha Springs, CO 81242 USA
info@ClassicCruisers.com
888.376.2420​

 

[pennywallin]

@pennywallin it would be unusual for a new fuel pump to fail after only 2 years…not unheard of but unusual. I would look at your fuel filter…pull the hose off the fuel line after the filter, put the hose in a bottle and have someone turn the key and crank the engine to see if fuel freely comes out. If not, replace the filter…less than $10.



EDIT: after rereading my above paragraph, I did not say what I was trying to say and cranking the engine while this fuel line is unattached from the input side of the fuel pump WILL NOT pump fuel thru the fuel filter. So not a valid test of the fuel filter. So go to my next paragraph, do that test and report back if fuel is coming out of the fuel pump (at the side of the pump closest to the radiator) while cranking the engine. If not, then we will need to determine if it’s the filter or the pump that is bad.




If the filter is good, do the same type of test removing the fuel line AFTER the fuel pump to see if fuel is getting up to the carburetor, if still good then you will need to look at the carburetor.

One domino at a time. You might need some help, but overall it’s fairly straightforward.

Hi John, update: I removed the fuel line after the fuel pump and gas came out so apparently the fuel filter and the fuel pump are ok . So I now need to move onto the carburetor which seems like a much more difficult problem to solve.
Thank you so much for your help and kindness.

 

[John McVicker]

I suggest you take a look at @Pighead ’s post 24 and in particular his pictures of where the fuel is sitting in the glass window on the front of the carb.

Let us know where your fuel level is and if possible give us a picture.

 

[pennywallin]

I suggest you take a look at @Pighead ’s post 24 and in particular his pictures of where the fuel is sitting in the glass window on the front of the carb.

Let us know where your fuel level is and if possible give us a picture.

John, I’ll do that tomorrow if I can get the air cleaner apart and if successful I’ll take pictures.

 

[John McVicker]

Super, you might be able to get a good picture w/o removing the air cleaner.

In order to get a true idea of where in the glass your fuel sits you’ve got to start your engine, let it warm up a few minutes and then while it idles…view the level & take some pics. You say yours dies shortly after you pour gas into the carb and it runs for a bit, so we may not get a accurate pic of your float situation…but let’s see what the pics show us.

 

[pennywallin]

Super, you might be able to get a good picture w/o removing the air cleaner.

In order to get a true idea of where in the glass your fuel sits you’ve got to start your engine, let it warm up a few minutes and then while it idles…view the level & take some pics. You say yours dies shortly after you pour gas into the carb and it runs for a bit, so we may not get a accurate pic of your float situation…but let’s see what the pics show us.

;

 

[pennywallin]

;View attachment 2790440

Good morning, it appears my carburetor is different than what you are talking about. I think my next option is to try and find a reputable mobile mechanic who is knowledgeable about carburetors.

 

[Pighead]

Yes, your carb is a bit different. A lot of hoses and doodads and gizmos have been added in the years between, but it's still sorta pretty similar.
I bet if you stand at the front of the engine and look back towards the carb and move stuff out of the way, you'll see the little porthole window.

 

[John McVicker]

I think @Pighead is correct…move some stuff and you prob can get a pic of the sight glass. But overall, in the end that carb will need to be addressed.

Maybe a LC guy that is close could assist or at least suggest a good shop. Or if not in a super time crunch, remove it and send it off to one of the real MUD carb gurus.




Now on the other hand…if you have a mechanically inclined friend that was willing/able to do the work, it is relatively straightforward to rebuild that carb using videos that we can direct you to if you decide to go that route.

But one way or the other your carb needs to be addressed.

 

[pennywallin]

Yes, your carb is a bit different. A lot of hoses and doodads and gizmos have been added in the years between, but it's still sorta pretty similar.
I bet if you stand at the front of the engine and look back towards the carb and move stuff out of the way, you'll see the little porthole window.

Unfortunately even when gas is put into the carburetor, it doesn’t run long enough for me to get a picture of a porthole window if there is one there which I haven’t been able to locate.
I really want to THANK everyone for all the help and suggestions, but I really think I need to locate a mobile mechanic who can do a “hands on” diagnosis

 

[pennywallin]

I think @Pighead is correct…move some stuff and you prob can get a pic of the sight glass. But overall, in the end that carb will need to be addressed.

Maybe a LC guy that is close could assist or at least suggest a good shop. Or if not in a super time crunch, remove it and send it off to one of the real MUD carb gurus.




Now on the other hand…if you have a mechanically inclined friend that was willing/able to do the work, it is relatively straightforward to rebuild that carb using videos that we can direct you to if you decide to go that route.

But one way or the other your carb needs to be addressed.

I agree and THANK YOU so much for all the help and suggestions!

 

[John McVicker]

See post 28…Classic Cruisers in Poncha Springs, Co. Cruiser people and VERY trustworthy.

 

[Pighead]

If you have fuel coming out of the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb, and if we can assume that more fuel comes out with it running, then the next place for a fuel blockage would be the needle valve that regulates how much gas is in the float bowl. Those can be stuck closed due to inactivity. There is a maneuver you can perform on the outside of the carb that can un-stick that valve. But you will need to remove enough stuff to swing a (very small) hammer. Once you have access to the corner of the carb where the fuel line attaches, tap your little hammer all about that area, sorta gently, no two-handed swings. You just want to jar that little up-and-down sliding stopper valve a little.
Edit: this general area here. Yours will look different