Fuel cut off solenoid (2 Viewers)

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For those that have removed the idle solenoid, cleaned/lubed it, does it seem to stay working as time goes on, or is this just a temporay fix until you are able to get a new solenoid? Mine is acting intermittent since the clean/lube. '77 carb on '79 2f. Thanks
Don't forget to check wire connections at both ends too.
 
New terminal on wire, end where wire enters solenoid looks fully intact. Would be nice to find a boot that would support the wire as it enters the rubber seal. It gets bent a lot during R/R. I think I have seen them on some condensors in the past.
 
In my case, the 40 sat for a long time and the idle circuit clogged. I removed idle screw and shot carb cleaner generously into idle screw hole as well as into inside the venturi holes (exits for fuel) a number of times until it finally idled smoothly. I had recently gone through this with my Harley carburetor regarding the idle circuit, so I was familiar with cleaning the idle circuit. On the Harley, I was able to use an ultrasonic cleaner, so it was easier. Aisan carb is too large for my HF cleaner. My 40 started and ran but wouldn’t idle. Stoplights required choke and gas to keep running, solenoid checked out OK and no vacuum leak, so I knew it was idle circuit.
 
Thanks guys. I just blew carb cleaner through the idle circuit with the carb off and the solenoid out. It is now totally clear. With the carb in front of your face it is quite obvious how the fuel enters from the main fuel input and branches to the cutoff and exits through the angled hole below the butterfly. I now present a theoretical question about this solenoid. Lets just say a guy loses that tiny o-ring in one of the places he was trying to find good light spraying with carb cleaner. Underfoot is dirt, gravel etc.... Is this solenoid's only function to positively shut off the fuel so it doesn't diesel on after the ignition is turned off? Until a new o-ring is found, could the solenoid be used with out an o-ring? With the wire hooked up the needle would retract and could idle as normal and if it diesels, that when you let the clutch out.
 
I don’t think so. Good luck though. Order spares of the o-ring on pg 2.
My hardware store has two trays of o-rings I may go through today. I will still order the correct ones. One thing I left out in my description of the idle circuit was the idle mixture screw. In my initial problem the mixture screw had NO effect on my poor idle. Even shut down completely, the rough idle remained unchanged. After breakfast I will go out and finish installing the carb with the solenoid without an o-ring. Seems I ought to be able to adjust the idle mixture with the needle valve. Right now the hole for the solenoid is plugged off with a piece of silicone vacuum hose with a sheet metal screw screwed into the center as an expander, but I think I will try it with the solenoid sans the o-ring , as that gives me the tiny holes as a sort of restrictor. I will definately report back with my results.
 
Well here it is running with no o ring at all, solenoid connected to power. I fixed everything that could possibly be a vacuum leak and I'm sure everthing helped. There is peace in the land where I live. I got my idle back.

22 inches.jpg
 
For those that have removed the idle solenoid, cleaned/lubed it, does it seem to stay working as time goes on, or is this just a temporay fix until you are able to get a new solenoid? Mine is acting intermittent since the clean/lube. '77 carb on '79 2f. Thanks
Did these fit? Thanks!

Lots of people (myself included) have done this, after their "emissions computer" that controls the fuel cut solenoid goes bad. All I had to do (on my 1980) was ground the wire that comes from the solenoid and goes into the "computer".


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x 3 on the cleaning part. Be careful when pulling away from the carb as you don't want to bend the needle.

I read somewhere (when I had the same trouble) that they rarely just go bad and often times it is fixed with a simple cleaning or lube.



- it seams
 

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