Fruition and Frustration: FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

[jpoole]

Would changing the fan oil in a new fan clutch be over kill?

I'm pretty sure that what you get with the new clutches varies so it's a gamble to just install a new one.

In '07 I purchased a new blue hub and my engine ran hotter with it than the old Eaton I had pulled off. With the new fan clutch the AC was shutting off after slow hill climbs which means temps were hitting the 220 or 225 cutoff (I forget exactly where it is). Once I set the temp and changed the oil in the new blue hub it's worked great. Given how easy it is to check / adjust and drain / fill a fan clutch I would never install a clutch (new or old) on my 80 without setting it up first.

You can get the basics here but keep in mind that mud consensus on this topic has evolved over the years. Most folks run 10k to 30k oil I think and the average oils used have gone up over the years:

Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk

History: On my first drive this summer after replacing my transmission I was having an overheat condition with the truck. On the following weekend while towing a camper it was real severe in the 230* range. After returning I was able to confirm that my Blue hubbed fan clutch was to blame...

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's what I've been running for the last 5 years with success in the SouthEastern US, including towing a 3k+ pound all over, etc. I think that setting the opening temp is particularly important:

small hole 50% open at 110 degrees​

45 ml 15k CST oil​

 

[RC51]

Some good news...went to a Mud members house to get the truck compression tested, 180PSI in all cylinders except for 175PSI in cylinder 1, and the spark plugs all looked great. Good enough? The only downside was that we didn't manage to test the coolant system pressure because of a tool malfunctioning. So for now I'll have to find a shop with the correct adapter to test my rad for leaks. But the friend did point out that 1/2 of my fan shroud was gone! That was actually my doing though lol, as my AC belt snapped on a trip, and left a nasty chunk in the way of the fan which I had to saw out. Hopefully the shroud + a new fan clutch + 20k oil will solve these problems!

Most corroded fan clutch ever? Glad I got a new one. Taking the 4 bolts off proved to be a challenge, had to resort to using heat and an air hammer to blow the nuts off at an angle.

 

[RC51]

June cont'd:

Finally opened up the swivel hub...why does the diff oil and moly grease cocktail attract so many flies? The smell was overwhelming to say the least. The first hub took me I'd say 15 hours, fighting with the rust and crud. Hammering those cone washer out took a long time. And the tie rods ball joints were stuck. Broke two axel seals, my 54mm socket turned out to be more like 56mm. AND some of two bolts on the felt seal broke, which I MIG'd out (so satisfying). I was glad to see the POs used quality Koyo swivel bearings and Timkens for the wheels.

The other side went by much faster, maybe 6 hours so far with another 2 hours to go. Still had to fight the rust, but knowing what I did before that worked and how much pressure to apply when hammering the races made things less stressful. Also I didn't have to flip back to my laptop to watch the tutorial, which required a whole degloving and degreasing procedure. But the bad news and good news is that the breather hose is broken:

World's shortest diff breather fosho. Bought some 1/4id fuel lines and a random fuel filter to extend the breather. I have a trip planned Saturday so I have to get the breather done as well!

Before:

After:

Ahhh keeping my BAWlllls clean.

 

[fjbj40]

Do yourself a favour and get one of these OEMTools 87009 OEM Automotive Tools No-Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kits | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-87009

They are available at most auto part places. I bought mine from NAPA many years ago after a recommendation from a cruiser tech. Best purchase I ever made for coolant work. It’s shocking how much air it evacuates after you think you got all the air out!

 

[RC51]

Bad news y’all, fuel filler neck is leaking and brake pedal is soft again after a trip yesterday even though I only recently bleed the brakes. Probably have a leak somewhere in the brake system and that fuel neck fix looks like a pain as well. When does it get easier?

 

[White Stripe]

Bad news y’all, fuel filler neck is leaking and brake pedal is soft again after a trip yesterday even though I only recently bleed the brakes. Probably have a leak somewhere in the brake system and that fuel neck fix looks like a pain as well. When does it get easier?

Good opportunity to maybe install a long range fuel tank in place of the original. 80s are a lot of work. Plan on replacing a lot of stuff. With that floor rust I'm guessing you probably have rust developing under your window gaskets as well. Get to that before it gets bad. Also look in the bottom of the rear quarter panels, rust can develop down there also.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Bad news y’all, fuel filler neck is leaking and brake pedal is soft again after a trip yesterday even though I only recently bleed the brakes. Probably have a leak somewhere in the brake system and that fuel neck fix looks like a pain as well. When does it get easier?

How are you bleeding the brakes? Have you been activating the and than bellying again? Bleeding lspv also?

 

[FMC80]

Activating ABS.

Stick with it. If you’re not bleeding the brakes in the proper sequence it will give you issues. Do you have a motive power bleeder or are you using the pump method? The sequence to bleed is to bleed the brakes farthest from the MC:

Aft right
LSPV
Aft left
LSPV
Fore right
Fore left

These dudes will correct me if I’m wrong but that’s how I did it. I also went through a s*** ton of brake fluid.

Take it slow and easy, it can be frustrating but it’ll be alright. Take a breath and take it slow brother. You got this.

 

[Broski]

Your doing great work, stick with it !!!
You got passed all that rust repair, it should be all down hill from here.

 

[RC51]

Thanks for the kind words friends…I’ve found the issue with the spongy brakes. But to clear my name, I bleed everything last time including the LSPV and the two master cylinder tubes! Here is the culprit:



I was prepared to bleed everything again and I noticed a wet spot…turns out the lspv’s metal hose connection developed a micro leak at the and was spraying brake fluid into the frame. Gotta get that cleaned up! Another one onto the project list. Can the lspv just be rid of? And along with it this rusty line of course. On the bright side the gasoline leak and brake fluid are very near each other so maybe the fuel was diluting the brake fluid lol

 

[Broski]

Thanks for the kind words friends…I’ve found the issue with the spongy brakes. But to clear my name, I bleed everything last time including the LSPV and the two master cylinder tubes! Here is the culprit:



I was prepared to bleed everything again and I noticed a wet spot…turns out the lspv’s metal hose connection developed a micro leak at the and was spraying brake fluid into the frame. Gotta get that cleaned up! Another one onto the project list. Can the lspv just be rid of? And along with it this rusty line of course. On the bright side the gasoline leak and brake fluid are very near each other so maybe the fuel was diluting the brake fluid lol

Many Have removed the LSPV including me with good results.

Other well tell you that it's unsafe and you well kill a bus load of Nuns.

At there age a lot of them stop working correctly. Yours looks pretty crusty

Proceed at your own risk