Front wheel bearings --- A few questions

Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Arizoina
Getting ready to replace front brake and rotors, gonna replace wheel bearings while I have them off. No evidence they are worn but bearing will eventually wear so I'm replacing them.

Questions:

(1) I read a few places here that the manual is wrong about torque on the wheel bearing nuts. Folks are claiming 30 inner 45 lock. Does anyone have knowledge that the manual is wrong, and if where did the other specs 30/45 come from? Usually these require several steps --- tighten, loosen, tighten but not as much. "Don't use the fish scale" someone says. Why not? I'm hoping for verified info here, not "Well this is what I did!"

(2) Anyone use Timken or National grease seals for the front wheels? Are they OK?

Thanks!
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2016
Messages
67
Location
Norfolk Virginia
I have had good luck with both methods. I will say when using the fish scale method I had to go back after ~25 miles of driving and tighten them up again. Landtank's method is also good. I have used timken seals. not as good as OEM but will work for a while
 
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Arizoina
Im from the fish scale are for fish due too many variables.

Me -
1 - •Tighten ~40lbs
2 - • Turn wheel 2 right 2 left
3 - • Loosen
4 - • Torque to 28lbs
5 - • Repeat 2 & 4
6 - • Repeat 2 & 4
So where did you get those torque numbers?
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
4,339
Location
Colorado
Getting ready to replace front brake and rotors, gonna replace wheel bearings while I have them off. No evidence they are worn but bearing will eventually wear so I'm replacing them.

Questions:

(1) I read a few places here that the manual is wrong about torque on the wheel bearing nuts. Folks are claiming 30 inner 45 lock. Does anyone have knowledge that the manual is wrong, and if where did the other specs 30/45 come from? Usually these require several steps --- tighten, loosen, tighten but not as much. "Don't use the fish scale" someone says. Why not? I'm hoping for verified info here, not "Well this is what I did!"

(2) Anyone use Timken or National grease seals for the front wheels? Are they OK?

Thanks!
If you're looking for a TSB or something along those lines, you wont find it. You read the various methods (25/45, 30/45) on the forum because they work for folks. A lot of us have had experience with the wheel bearings loosening up after some miles using the factory method. These alternatives are not "official" or gospel, they just work for many of us. I did the 28/45 method the last time mine loosened up after doing the FSM procedure. Holding strong about 10k miles later.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
8,126
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
The FSM states fish scale and I believe 30 INCH POUNDS ( not foot pounds), unless you have an Australia manual.
The outer nut is listed to tighten to 45 FOOT-POUNDS.

The fish-scale thing does NOT work.

I went full anal the first time I rebuilt my front axle and followed the FSM to a tee. Then I went back and retorqued front wheel bearings 5 times until they finally hold now.

It's the torque on the inner one that is the problem.

I torque mine to 35 Lb-Ft. I also have switched to the Trail Gear single Lock nut (not sure it was worth it or not.....)

Actually, I follow the one from @Tools R Us (RIP). He's the one that helped get me in the right place.
 

flintknapper

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
6,739
Location
Deep East Texas
25-30 ft lbs; do it the way Phil said and roll on. Way too many posts on mud about people having to re-torque after the fish scales.
I don't even bother torquing them, I snug them down good and tight then spin the wheel a few revolutions to disperse the grease, back off of it, tighten it again until I feel a little resistance rotating the wheel and then sock down the lock nut. Drive for a few miles and check for looseness...if none...then you are probably good to go.

You don't want too much preload or your bearings/hubs will run hot and there will be increased wear on the bearings. Too little will produce slop...but honestly..there is a large window of 'OK' between those two extremes. If you take your LC in to an 'indy' to have this done...almost none of them are going to torque anything. They are going to go by 'feel'.
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
2,009
So where did you get those torque numbers?
Below are two threads that may explain how a very knowledgeable Mud member, Tools R Us came up with those numbers.
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
4,339
Location
Colorado
You don't want too much preload or your bearings/hubs will run hot and there will be increased wear on the bearings. Too little will produce slop...but honestly..there is a large window of 'OK' between those two extremes. If you take your LC in to an 'indy' to have this done...almost none of them are going to torque anything. They are going to go by 'feel'.
True. There are a lot of old-timers and mechanics out there who can tell what's good by hand. In fact, if you youtube wheel bearing videos, there are some of them on the web. Tight, spins with a little bit of resistance. Done.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2015
Messages
1,600
Location
Bend, OR
I don't even bother torquing them, I snug them down good and tight then spin the wheel a few revolutions to disperse the grease, back off of it, tighten it again until I feel a little resistance rotating the wheel and then sock down the lock nut. Drive for a few miles and check for looseness...if none...then you are probably good to go.

You don't want too much preload or your bearings/hubs will run hot and there will be increased wear on the bearings. Too little will produce slop...but honestly..there is a large window of 'OK' between those two extremes. If you take your LC in to an 'indy' to have this done...almost none of them are going to torque anything. They are going to go by 'feel'.
Doing it by feel works well if you are familiar with bearings and have done them before. The torque numbers are helpful for new folks to learn what it should feel like.
 
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