My mechanic just told me that my right front wheel bearing has some play in it. (It has a shemmy to it) My question is does it need to be replaced, just what is involved, do I do both at the same time.? Are the parts expensive and do I need to order them from Dubai? He will not do the job and said I need to locate a mechanic that knows about these old LC's. Thanks for any and all information !!!
Front Wheel Bearing (replace or what) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boykin Hollow
- Start date
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Clock face. 12 and 6 wiggle or 9 and 3 wiggle? Determines if its the wheel bearing or trunion. I would remove, repack, grease, and install. If there’s no scar on the race and the bearings spin freely, grease.
- Thread starter
- #3
I will ask my mechanic and post the answer once I can get in touch with him. Thanks
The video in the link shows the complete front axle service which some people re-do every 100,000 miles or so, or whenever they pick up an 80 with unknown history.
The first part of the video includes how to service just the wheel bearings, but if you're already that deep into the job might as well do the whole front axle service.
The first part of the video includes how to service just the wheel bearings, but if you're already that deep into the job might as well do the whole front axle service.
Loose front wheel bearings on these is fairly common. I assume it's in large part the result of the factory service manuals torque procedure. Regardless, it's not uncommon for wheel bearings to develop a little play on any vehicle, particularly soon after they are installed/re-installed as things settle in (depending on how they were installed/torqued of course).
If the front-end was serviced recently and you know that seals are good, grease is clean, etc. and if the bearing turns smoothly and runs cool after you re-torque it I would have no problem simply redoing the preload on the front wheel bearings and rolling on (with an eye on hub temps for the first few hundred miles). You can read up on mud for the recommended preload procedure.
If front end hasn't been serviced in a long time or has unknown history I'd consider this a good excuse for a full rebuild/service.
If the front-end was serviced recently and you know that seals are good, grease is clean, etc. and if the bearing turns smoothly and runs cool after you re-torque it I would have no problem simply redoing the preload on the front wheel bearings and rolling on (with an eye on hub temps for the first few hundred miles). You can read up on mud for the recommended preload procedure.
If front end hasn't been serviced in a long time or has unknown history I'd consider this a good excuse for a full rebuild/service.
Could just tighten it up!
54mm socket and some reading.
54mm socket and some reading.
If he doesn't know about front wheel bearings, then he's not a mechanic.
- Thread starter
- #8
Just learned that it was the 12 and 6 wiggle
It's likely the wheel bearing either way as that's the easier one to detect (vs. trunions) by wheel/tire push/pull in my experience. 9 and 3 oclock can be a little harder as some of the steering movement can be a factor and soften the bumps of the bearing slack. In any case the mech has sort of disqualified their opinion/diagnostics at this point I'd say.
The front-end on an LC is similar in it's setup to that on most other 4wd, solid axle rigs. I agree with Jon and your mech that you need to take it to someone else, or do it yourself, but for axle work at least it doesn't have to be an LC specialist in my opinion though those are preferred if available.
The front-end on an LC is similar in it's setup to that on most other 4wd, solid axle rigs. I agree with Jon and your mech that you need to take it to someone else, or do it yourself, but for axle work at least it doesn't have to be an LC specialist in my opinion though those are preferred if available.
