Front Wheel Bearing or worse (1 Viewer)

[pasquinel]

97 LX450 Today an intermittent yet obvious problem in the Front Right presented itself. It felt like when you go from smooth Highway to the groove pavement noise and vibration. Considering temperature, After an hour drive avg 70mph, when nearing destination, in a 35 zone the problem started going in and out. It did not change with brake application, or steering direction changes. It appears to be a rotation only symptom. I stopped at a mechanic shop and removed wheel, brakes looked fine and he couldn't determine noticable play in bearing... however it would not show the symptom when he drove it, smooth and quiet. Sure enough, as soon as I was trying to make it home it started again. I chose to not go across the lake bridge but gave it a chance to get home without towing. However, on another highway averaging 55 it didn't show up, until nearing my destination it did it again, for a second or two. I am wondering if the bearings are becoming faulty and what would that sound like? It's just like going from smooth to grooved shoulder. Does this sound like an axle problem or something else? In anyone's experience? I picked up bearings and seal and will have a look in the morning, meanwhile I am searching the forum. Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[Tools R Us]

Is the moly grease level in the knuckles correct, ~1/2 to 3/4 full?

 

[REKCUT]

Usually you can get bearing noise in to change by turning back and forth while driving. It changes the load on the wheel and will usually change the noise

 

[pasquinel]

Usually you can get bearing noise in to change by turning back and forth while driving. It changes the load on the wheel and will usually change the noise

That's the way I understood it, but it wasn't acting that way... just on or off independent of brakes or steering

 

[pasquinel]

Is the moly grease level in the knuckles correct, ~1/2 to 3/4 full?

This is something unknown to me. I am a brand newbie owner. Even waiting for my manual to come in.

 

[Tools R Us]

This is something unknown to me. I am a brand newbie owner. Even waiting for my manual to come in.

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

The knuckle grease is checked, replenished by removing the plug on the knuckle. What you are reporting sounds like classic dry spindle bushing, that is from dry/low knuckle grease, best to use moly grease.

 

[Tools R Us]

Shoot/post pictures of your knuckles, often can get an idea of grease level by looking at the outside.

 

[pasquinel]

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

The knuckle grease is checked, replenished by removing the plug on the knuckle. What you are reporting sounds like classic dry spindle bushing, that is from dry/low knuckle grease, best to use moly grease.

Thanks for response, I will look into this approach
and for videos or threads to guide me

 

[pasquinel]

Shoot/post pictures of your knuckles, often can get an idea of grease level by looking at the outside.

two pics of passenger side then one driver

 

[george_tlc]

I see rust on the ball part of the knuckle housing - that implies it's more than likely bone dry inside. Not a good sign and most likely everything inside is running without grease. You'll be needing to rip into a full knuckle job both sides and likely be replacing some worn parts.

cheers,
george.

 

[pasquinel]

I see rust on the ball part of the knuckle housing - that implies it's more than likely bone dry inside. Not a good sign and most likely everything inside is running without grease. You'll be needing to rip into a full knuckle job both sides and likely be replacing some worn parts.

cheers,
george.

Thanks

 

[pasquinel]

Thanks

I’m looking for a rebuild kit now

 

[Tools R Us]

Those look dry, but the axle seal doesn't appear to be leaking. I would add a tube of moly grease to each side, drive and see what happens. It takes some miles, then recheck/fill as needed to bring the level up to correct. Also check the diff oil, grease tends to migrate, causing it to thicken, needs to be changed more often than the rear.

In cases like this, I prefer to get the lubes correct and see what effect that has. In some cases, may not need a reseal job, but even if it does, running it with lube, gives a better idea of what is needed before taking it apart.

 

[Tools R Us]

I’m looking for a rebuild kit now

Cruiser Outfitters good stuff. But best to have an better idea of what is needed?

 

[pasquinel]

Those look dry, but the axle seal doesn't appear to be leaking. I would add a tube of moly grease to each side, drive and see what happens. It takes some miles, then recheck/fill as needed to bring the level up to correct. Also check the diff oil, grease tends to migrate, causing it to thicken, needs to be changed more often than the rear.

In cases like this, I prefer to get the lubes correct and see what effect that has. In some cases, may not need a reseal job, but even if it does, running it with lube, gives a better idea of what is needed before taking it apart.

A tube in each in the morning

 

[pasquinel]

Cruiser Outfitters good stuff. But best to have an better idea of what is needed?

Thanks, I sent them a message to initiate process

 

[Tools R Us]

A tube in each in the morning

Dry balls = bad, greasy balls = good!

 

[Tools R Us]

They don't look like they are moving, but best to check your nuts! Grab your torque wrench, set to 71ft/lb, a 17mm socket and confirm the torque in the steering arm nuts.