front tow hooks (2 Viewers)

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I've used the factory loops to recover a Tundra no problem.. I believe the loop coming forward would be the tow hook and the one facing straight down is for tie down.
 
Could be wrong, but it doesn't look like the bolt/vehicle interface is much stronger. And the bolts anchoring the hook to the vehicle don't change. Would be very interested in seeing these actually tested to failure, as I bet the values would be similar.
Factory bolts are too short to use on the Trail Tailor points (probably the same with ARB). Jason offers Grade 8 SS bolts as an option, or you can source them yourself. I believe Grade 8 is stronger than the factory bolts...
 
Factory bolts are too short to use on the Trail Tailor points (probably the same with ARB). Jason offers Grade 8 SS bolts as an option, or you can source them yourself. I believe Grade 8 is stronger than the factory bolts...

ARB recovery points also come with longer, upgraded bolts.
 
Could be wrong, but it doesn't look like the bolt/vehicle interface is much stronger. And the bolts anchoring the hook to the vehicle don't change. Would be very interested in seeing these actually tested to failure, as I bet the values would be similar.
The factory tow point could fail in several ways. First, the bolts themselves could shear. The aftermarket points come with stronger bolts.

Second, the weld from the hoop to the plates could fail. The aftermarket points are all one piece and are much thicker and stronger.

Third, the bolts could shear through the thin plates. The aftermarket recovery points are much, much thicker and there is no way that failure mode could happen.

I don’t know which of these possible failure modes is controlling. I suspect all of them are relatively unlikely, but my factory tow points didn’t look all that great in terms of rust. I figure replacing them was relatively cheap insurance, as a broken recovery point could result in a really bad day. YMMV.
 
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The factory tow point could fail in several ways. First, the bolts themselves could shear. The aftermarket points come with stronger bolts.

Second, the weld from the hoop to the plates could fail. The aftermarket points are all one piece and are much thicker and stronger.

Third, the bolts could shear through the thin plates. The aftermarket recover points are much, much thicker and there is no way that failure mode could happen.

I don’t know which of these possible failure modes is controlling. I suspect all of them are relatively unlikely, but my factory tow points didn’t look all that great n terms of rust. I figure replacing them was relatively cheap insurance, as a broken recovery point could result in a really bad day. YMMV.

Oh I agree. I think the thick single piece ones with better bolts is a good way to go. The "Upgraded " hooks on the previous page still look welded, hence my comments. Personally i don'h have a horse in the race, my hooks are off and I'll be using the recovery points on my bumper.
 
So, what grade is the factory bolt?? For the life of me, I cannot find what “II” mean.

0D25FB66-356C-4732-BFC4-435048CF4C1A.jpeg
 
The "Upgraded " hooks on the previous page still look welded, hence my comments.
I could be wrong, but years ago I took a welding class and the instructor told us that a proper weld is as strong or stronger than the base material. I wouldn't worry about that weld failing. I bet the bolts give long before that...
 
They are currently sold out, but these would be my first choice.

 
They are currently sold out, but these would be my first choice.

Yep. I have a pair still solid after a couple years
 
Personally I would not want stainless mounting hardware. It is much more prone to thread galling than a proper carbon steel bolt.. and often the coatings on those are good enough to prevent corrosion issues.

Also going bananas with hardware grade only has limited effectiveness. The weld-nuts in the frame surely aren't very high grade, so you can't use all the torque that a high-grade bolt would allow. A better bolt would offer more shear strength (usually), but if you don't have any more clamping force, this only matters if the system comes loose and is resisting shear with the bolt itself. If you are that far gone, the system is ****ed anyway.

Stock grade bolts tightened to factory torque in the factory inserts should be more than enough in this setup. If it weren't, ARB would have done one of the complicated bracket systems they do for their other rated recovery point products to distribute the load.

Could be wrong, but it doesn't look like the bolt/vehicle interface is much stronger. And the bolts anchoring the hook to the vehicle don't change. Would be very interested in seeing these actually tested to failure, as I bet the values would be similar.

To me the tundra system looks weaker. Not the hook itself, but in the 200 setup, the middle tie-down part acts as a huge washer to more solidly hold the central bracket of the recovery hook flat against the frame and keep it from deforming & tearing. In both of these hooks I can imagine the relatively thin central part being what breaks before the hoop or weld.

They rounded up from 10.9?

No, this is a marking system toyota has used for decades. I'm trying to find my PDF to decode it. Either way I'm pretty sure it's not a particularly high-grade bolt.
 
Edit: Appears to be class 11T. Aka strong.

200boltstrength.jpg


If someone wants to compare toyota's torque chart to the same thing for standard metric fasteners be my guest

200bolttorque2.jpg



For the nuts

200nutstrength.jpg
 
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Edit: new info
 
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Opinions abound but has anyone actually had the factory points fail and if so what were the conditions? Asking for a friend of course. :cool:

That is the real question.
 
Per the tightening torque values 6T is less than metric grade 8, which is less than SAE grade 5. No idea of material properties though.

why do you think it is 6T and not 11?

6T Mark is not same as the picture I posted.
 

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