Front swaybar quick disconnects.

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Phil, Nov 15, 2005.

  1. Phil

    Phil

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    G'day all.

    I have a 105 (live axle 100) and am trying to figure out a way to have a set up that can be easily disconnected when off road.
    I want a set up that won't void insurance when on road, but will disconnect easily.

    The back end was easy enough but the front seems to be a bit harder.

    I've tried replacing the front bolts (where they bolt to the diff housing) with clevis pins, but can't get them out easily.

    I was thinking of getting a swaybar from a wreckers and cutting it inline with the centre of the diff and welding a pipe flange to either side of where I cut it. When you want to connect it you would need to line up the bolt holes on the flanges and rebolt or pin it. When disconnected it should pivot in the middle without the swaybars actually being disconnected from the chassis or the diff and this would allow me to leave the ABS wiring to run down one side safely and not have the swaybar moving around unsafely.

    Its hard to explain in words and I'm not sure if this would work, but I would like to hear feedback and any better ideas if anyone has them.

    I know its not an 80, but the front ends are very similar.

    Cheers Phil.
     
  2. Josh83

    Josh83

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    Here is what I have been thinking about:

    Take your end links and cut them in half. Find some tubing that the joints slide into easily, definately not tightly though. Weld one half of the endlink into one end of the tube, and then for the other half of the endlink, drill a nole through the tube and endlink and put a pin through it.
     
  3. FirstToy

    FirstToy

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  4. clownmidget

    clownmidget

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    maybe like this

    This is just a 4" piece of 0.25" walled 1" square tube with 0.25" x 1" wide plate (both hardened steel) that essentially replicates the mount higher where it is easier to pull the clevis pin out. This has worked fine for me. You can fabricate a "receiver" bracket along the bottom of the frame rail as well to hold the sway bar up and out of the way while off road.

    Sorry for the bad pic.

    edit: forgot to add that a centering pin (aka a bolt) was welded into the bottom so it sits in the hole of the mounting bracket. This is to resist any sheering forces while the sway bar pushes/pulls against the raised mount.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2007
  5. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    I beleive photoguy was doing something similar to the spline idea with spicer pto shafts. There is a large amount of force on the rotaion of spring steel so I beleive he ditched it without trail due to concerns on welding the flenges to spring steel and causing carbon zones adjacent to the welded areas.
    Dave
     
  6. Phil

    Phil

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    Welding on spring steel is probably asking for trouble.

    I like your idea clownmidget. I'll have a look this afternoon as I think I could raise the front mounts easily. Did you move your mounts to the back of the diff or is that where they are originally on a 80? (mine are on the top of the diff) Is that above the rear bolt of your control arm? Do you have any clearance problems around the bottom of the engine with the extensions at full articulation?

    Cheers Phil.
     
  7. shanegtr

    shanegtr

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    I know what you mean with the ABS wiring. My wiring is cable tied to the left hand side of the swaybar from the factory. So to disconnect the swaybar I'd also need to think about freeing up the ABS cable. Does anyone know if it would be possible to cut the cable and install a plug and still have the ABS work normally?
     
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