front sway bar options (1 Viewer)

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Apr 1, 2020
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Location
Baton Rouge, LA
My rusted out 2000 LC rides like crap so I am trying to replace some of the less expensive suspension components. I was thinking I would replace the bushings and connectors for the sway bar up front first. I removed the skid plate and lo and behold, the bracket that the sway bar connector hooks to is just rusted away. I am hoping someone here might have some ideas of how to either replace this bracket or develop something else for the sway bar to connect to. Any ideas?

My goal is to spend as little on this as possible given the level of rust. There is no way I could afford to replace the entire suspension on this. Based on this, I was planning to use the same rusted sway bar. I was going to strip the rust and paint it with Rust Bullet. I was also planning to use the same links if possible. A few general questions:

1. Is this sway bar too rusted to recover with Rust Bullet?
2. Should I just go ahead and replace the links as well while I am at it?

Also FYI, I am planning to grind as much of the rust away and liberally apply Rust Bullet to the frame.

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This is one of those "they all do that" things. The front AC drain is located directly above this bracket, it drips down on to the bracket, and water pools up and rusts these out. Here's a decent thread talking about this: Front sway bar bracket

Swaybar is probably fine to paint, so long as where the links at each end attach aren't so rusted out that the links would wobble around. New off brand end links are like $16 each side if you really wanted to go the cheap route.
 
This is one of those "they all do that" things. The front AC drain is located directly above this bracket, it drips down on to the bracket, and water pools up and rusts these out. Here's a decent thread talking about this: Front sway bar bracket

Swaybar is probably fine to paint, so long as where the links at each end attach aren't so rusted out that the links would wobble around. New off brand end links are like $16 each side if you really wanted to go the cheap route.
Interesting. Any idea where to get a replacement bracket or are these typically homemade?
 
Interesting. Any idea where to get a replacement bracket or are these typically homemade?

From what I understand, most people (including myself this weekend) go the route of 2x2 or 3x3 angle iron and just fab a new bracket using that and weld it on. Any decent welding/frame type shop should be able to take care of this also.
 
Since it's almost guaranteed you will snap the bolt holding the frame-mounted bracket on, what I suggest is to get a new bracket from Toyota, go ahead and let the bolt snap when you wrench on it. You might get lucky (you won't!).

The nut on the top of the frame for that bolt is tack-welded on. Knock it off with a cold chisel, and use a new grade 10.9 nut and bolt and through-bolt it to attach the new bracket. Back it up with a small plate or washer if the rust is really bad, so it does not pull through. This also saves you to trouble of trying to work around the torsion bar, which is in the way of anything you do with working on that bracket.
 
Since it's almost guaranteed you will snap the bolt holding the frame-mounted bracket on, what I suggest is to get a new bracket from Toyota, go ahead and let the bolt snap when you wrench on it. You might get lucky (you won't!).

The nut on the top of the frame for that bolt is tack-welded on. Knock it off with a cold chisel, and use a new grade 10.9 nut and bolt and through-bolt it to attach the new bracket. Back it up with a small plate or washer if the rust is really bad, so it does not pull through. This also saves you to trouble of trying to work around the torsion bar, which is in the way of anything you do with working on that bracket.
Are you suggesting that I bolt the new bracket to the frame rather than welding it? Apologies if I am misunderstanding (likely).
 
Are you suggesting that I bolt the new bracket to the frame rather than welding it? Apologies if I am misunderstanding (likely).
There is a tab for one end of the bracket, and the other end bolts to the frame. Actually, bolt goes though frame into nut tack-welded to top of frame, mentioned in my post.. If the tab is not rusted out and you can use it, yes, bolt the new bracket on.
 

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