Front Sway Bar Mount Bushing Replacement (1 Viewer)

[skeezix]

I'm getting ready to replace those 2 bushings that mount the front sway bar to the frame. I'll be on my back on the garage floor. I've already replaced the endlink cushions while I was replacing the struts.

1. Do I put the jackstand under the frame or under the LCA?

2. Can I do them one side at a time or would it be easier to jack up both sides equally and then do each bushing separately?

3. Should I expect to have to force the bar into position while replacing the mounts?

4. Any hints/warnings/comments/blessings??

Thanks in advance!

 

[raydouble]

I'm getting ready to replace those 2 bushings that mount the front sway bar to the frame. I'll be on my back on the garage floor. I've already replaced the endlink cushions while I was replacing the struts.

1. Do I put the jackstand under the frame or under the LCA?

The frame.

2. Can I do them one side at a time or would it be easier to jack up both sides equally and then do each bushing separately?

You don't have to jack it up at all if you don't want to.

3. Should I expect to have to force the bar into position while replacing the mounts?

A little, I don't remember it being too terrible.

4. Any hints/warnings/comments/blessings??

Are they rubber or poly replacements?

Thanks in advance!

^^^^^^^^
See above.
Here is the FSM page.....

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fsb/comp.pdf

 

[skeezix]

Thank, Raydouble! After looking at the FSM page, I noticed that the nuts on top of the links are non-reusable. Guess I'd better get a couple from the dealer.

The bushings are Energy Suspension black poly versions.

One last question - is it feasible to replace them one at a time by removing the wheel and working thru the wheelwell?

 

[raydouble]

Thank, Raydouble! After looking at the FSM page, I noticed that the nuts on top of the links are non-reusable. Guess I'd better get a couple from the dealer.

The bushings are Energy Suspension black poly versions.

One last question - is it feasible to replace them one at a time by removing the wheel and working thru the wheelwell?

The bushings or the nuts?

The nuts you could, I think, pretty easily.
The bushings would be way easier to get from underneath.
Take off the nut and bolt holding the bushing clamp, remove clamp.

Did it come with teflon grease?

Make sure you use a liberal amount of that grease on the inside and outside of the bushing bore so you don't get squeaky stabilizer bar.

 

[TheDurk]

The warning would be that those nuts can be pretty frozen up, especially if they see a lot of salt. I broke one of the studs and had to replace the bracket on that side. I recommend an overnight PB Blaster pre-treat. It is tough to get a wrench on the front ones. Just not much room. I used a 1/4 inch ratchet and deep socket. I don't know about the wheel well approach, I sort of doubt it. The brackets are not interchangeable side-to-side and are marked L and R--but that might be hard to see.

It's the sway bar end-link top nuts that are non-reusable, not the bushing mount nuts, but you may need them anyway.

But it's basically a straight forward job.

 

[skeezix]

Okay, done. Took 3 hours from the time I turned the garage lights on to when I turned them off. The majority of the time was used to arrive at the right combination of tools and body positions that would let me access the bolts. A few notes that pertain to my 1998 TRD V6 (YMMV):

Resting the frame on jackstands such that the front tires were just barely on the ground gave me enough room to work.

Used a 3/8-inch air rachet with a 12mm short socket to spin out the bolts on the driver side. Completely removed them.

After monkeying around with an assortment of hand tools (no room for the air rachet) on the passenger side, I found that a 3/8-inch rachet drive with a 6-inch extension gave me enough swing to remove those bolts.

It took all my strength (which isn't a helluva lot these days) to break the passenger side bolts loose using a standard 12mm combo wrench.

I unscrewed the p-side bolts until just a thread or two were visible under the welded-on nut. That lowered the sway bar enough to easily replace the bushing on the d-side.

The kit I received from Energy Suspensions included a little ampule of the stickiest grease I've seen in a long time and instructions that said to only grease the inside of the bushing.

So I did.

I replaced the d-side bushing, screwed the bolts in until a few threads were visible below the welded-on nut, then did the p-side.

Having no way to get a torque wrench up there to properly torque the bolts I just tightened them as tight as I could with the combo wrench.

Spent about 20 minutes cleaning up all the grease splatters that resulted after the guy at the local Jiffylube lubed the driveshaft U-joints.

Actually got the job done without gashing a finger, kicking the dog, or cursing.

 

[zetasig]

I am getting ready to do this on my 97 4Runner. I see energy suspensions has a 26mm and a 27mm for the front, any way to determine ahead of time which one I need? I see where they said to use a cresent wrench and then measure the prongs....

 

[raydouble]

I am getting ready to do this on my 97 4Runner. I see energy suspensions has a 26mm and a 27mm for the front, any way to determine ahead of time which one I need? I see where they said to use a cresent wrench and then measure the prongs....

I'm not sure what size the Wheelersoffroad kit was but it was the correct size.

I was thinking 26mm for 2wd and 27mm for 4x4........I can not confirm though.

 

[zetasig]

Thanks, Ray, Ordered my kit yesterday, Starting with the PB Blaster a week ahead of time, thanks to my good friend road salt......

 

[brian2sun]

Mine from wheelers were 27mm. But I don't even have my sway bars on anymore. If you want mine, PM me. They are ~ 1 year old.

 

[zetasig]

Pmed you. I am interested.

FWIW Wheelers has stock issues. Email said components to make the kit are on backorder a few weeks, so I cancelled.

 

[zetasig]

Getting ready to tackle this when the PB Blaster has had a few days to soak in.

Last question. with the grease, I have to assume I have to slide these bushings from the sway link end, down the stabilizer bar, and into position since its a one piece bushing. So Do I grease this up first, or wait until its slid down and almost into position and then grease it? This is for the inside of the bushing. I will grease the outside before I tighten the bracket up.

It seems if I put the grease on first, most of it on the inside of the bushing would come off on the sway bar itself while I am twisting and turning it and sliding it down the bar to get it into position?

Been a long week, Thanks for any input.

 

[raydouble]

Getting ready to tackle this when the PB Blaster has had a few days to soak in.

Last question. with the grease, I have to assume I have to slide these bushings from the sway link end, down the stabilizer bar, and into position since its a one piece bushing. So Do I grease this up first, or wait until its slid down and almost into position and then grease it? This is for the inside of the bushing. I will grease the outside before I tighten the bracket up.

It seems if I put the grease on first, most of it on the inside of the bushing would come off on the sway bar itself while I am twisting and turning it and sliding it down the bar to get it into position?

Been a long week, Thanks for any input.

What bushings did you end up with? Mine were one piece but they split to allow you to slide it over the bar without having to slide it all the way down the bar.....I'll get a pic.

 

[raydouble]

All the pics sucked.....anyway, I would probably just lube the bar where they are going to sit. I have never tried to slide a bushing down the entire length of the bar like that before.....I imagine it's going to be a pain in the ass.

 

[zetasig]

I think I shot too soon. I have the bushings, they are from Wheelers, but they looked to be one piece, its possible that the grease on them made them appear to be one piece but they probably are claim shell like.

I should have looked better before posting up, they were used frome brian2sun here, but I did not take them out of the bag.

Will do that and report back. Im 1000 miles away from the parts and truck right now.

 

[brian2sun]

They are 1-piece with a split in one side to slip them over the bar.

 

[zetasig]

They are 1-piece with a split in one side to slip them over the bar.

Yup, I pulled the trigger too soon with my post. The grease was sticking them together, So I assumed one solid piece.

PB Blaster is doing its thing, Hope to get them on in a day or two.

Thanks folks.

 

[zetasig]

Another I love rust story. Mutha F$@%#$.

after 3 days of PB Blaster, I snapped all 4 nuts/studs holding the brackets tonight. and one sway link at the top on the driver side, that I replaced with an OEM toy part about 5 years ago. before calling it good.

Ordered two more complete sway links from Rock auto tonight..... Gonna have to drill out the studs which were factory welded and put new nuts and bolts on. I did get the two bolts backed out of the bracket after I snapped the heads off. So thats a bonus I suppose. Good thing we have a few other cars to drive in the mean time.

So much for the good deal on the bushings, and getting out of this one cheap and easy. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt. I love road salt.

 

[brian2sun]

That sucks. If you remove the sway bar, you can still drive it (I haven't had a front or rear sway bar on mine for a while now). It will handle differently and have more body roll around corners, but just go slower and be cautious.

 

[zetasig]

Yeah, its for the wife, we have a few other rides so not a big deal, just sucks dealing with corrosion on everything..

New sway links shipped this morning.

At least it gives me time to strip and repaint the sway bar since it was pretty beat up with scale.