If I recall correctly, besides the rotors (if your wheel bearings are good) the only parts you will need are a pair of inner wheel bearing grease seals, two locking tabs for the hub nuts, and two drive plate gaskets.
Personally I would replace the brake pads while I was there.
If the wheel bearings are not 100% then you'll need two inner and two outer bearings, all with new races.
You'll want some wheel bearing grease. One tub of general purpose high speed wheel bearing grease (NOT moly fortified grease) will do it.
Tool wise you'll need the 54mm socket, a selection of rachets and sockets, a torque wrench, a 3lb brass hammer, a screwdriver, a seal puller and a spring scale. If you do the bearings too you'll want a brass drift for race removal. Also a jack, jack stands, shop towels, and I like nitrile gloves. You will want some brake cleaner to clean the new rotors and perhaps some other solvent for cleaning bearings.
You may have some luck if you search threads here about birf jobs, as doing the birfs requires removng the rotors and the same steps apply.
One tip I got here too that was handy, if you do need to repalce wheel bearings - take one of the old inner and outer races and cut slots through them - use them for driving in the new races.
Break the lugnuts loose on the ground, jack the front end up, install jack stands, remove the lug nuts, remove the wheels, take off the caliper and bracket and hang it from a wire or zip tie so it doesn't damage the brake line. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Loosen but don't remove the 10mm nuts on top of the conical washers, use your brass hammer to pop the drive plate loose and pop the conical washers out, remove the nuts and conical washers, remove the drive plate. Straighten any bent tabs on the outer axle nut, remove the outer axle nut, the locking tab, the inner axle nut and the thrust washer. Remove the rotor (called a disk in the FSM) being careful not to drop the outer bearings. Remove the inner bearing grease seal, and the inner bearing.
If reusing the bearings, clean and inspect them. Pack (new or old) bearings with new grease. Carefully drive out the old races (inner and outer) from the hub (using a brass drift). Install races (new ones if new bearings) in the new rotor. Install the inner bearings, drive in a new inner grease seal. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Pack the inside perimeter of the rotor with grease. Put the rotor on the stub axle, install the outer bearing. Place thrust washer, inner axle nut (follow the detailed preload instructions from elsewhere on this site). Once torqued properly, install the locking tab and then the outer nut, check preload again (probably adjust again a couple of times), torque outer axle nut as instructed, bend up locking tabs. Install drive plate with new gasket. Put conical washers and nuts back on and tighten. Fill grease cap with grease and install. Spray the rotor clean again with brake cleaner. Reinstall the calipers, wheels and lugnuts. Lower vehicle and finish tightening the lugnuts properly.
I don't have all the torque specs handy. Assume every fastener mentioned above should be torqued correctly.
search around for the preload instructions as they're pretty specific.
I probably missed something, but that is what I remember...