Front Locker - Stuck - HELP!

[Gauge]

I am doing the Birfield Repack right now in my garage. When I ordered the parts from Cruiser Dan, I told him over the phone that I have had problems with my front locker getting stuck in the lock position (It locks fine, it just doesn't UNLOCK). I asked Dan if I should remove the front locker when I do the birfield repack and take a look into what might be causing it to stay locked. Dan recommended that I don't F with it and instead jack the front end up and shift the wheels back and forth while the wife locks and unlocks the locker. He hoped that would loosen it up.

Well as suspected, it locked fine, but now I can't get it unlocked. The front end is off the ground, and I keep trying to spin the tires (they only spin about an inch - since it is locked - when it is unlocked I can spin the tire freely, with the other tire spinning in the opposite direction). I can't get this thing unlocked for the life of me.

Should I disassemble the locker? If so, what should I look for? Any advice?

Please Email or call (646) 245-7090.

 

[Gold Finger]

Hi I tried a search and came up with this,
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=13559&highlight=unlock+locked+locker
Good luck, there will be more poeple on line better able to assist later on.

 

[cruiserdan]

Try tapping on the actuator with a mallet or a big screw driver handle. That may knock it loose. Do you have the FSM? I can't remember if you said you do. If not I can copy off the actuator indexing stuff and fax it to you.



It could also be that there is a problem with the wiring and it is not getting the signal to un-lock.

D-

 

[Gauge]

I do have the factory service manual.

Can I continue to do the birfield repack with the front locker locked? Or will I run into trouble if I pull out the axle tubes with the locker locked?

Dan, I will try tapping on it with a mallett. How do I test if the return signal is getting power? Pull the plug and test the circuits? I imagine it is only three wires - a ground, a hot wire to lock and hot wire to unlock.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[cruiserdan]

You can proceed with the axle work.

You will need the pages from the EWD related to the locker. Do you have the EWD also?

 

[Gauge]

Dan - I don't know EWD stands for so I don't now if I have it.

I am not comfortable with the locker like this. I'm going to pull it off and look at it. Besides it's PITA to try and do a birfield repack with a stuck locker. I can't spin the wheel and move the bolts to the top so they are easier to work on.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[cruiserdan]

Electrical
Wiring
Diagram


I can fax the pertinent pages to you if necessary.

 

[cruiserdan]

I can't spin the wheel and move the bolts to the top so they are easier to work on.

Thanks for the advice.

Remove the drive flanges first and install them last.

 

[Riley]

If you put the transfer case in Neutral, can't you spin the wheel when doing the birf repack? If the other side is free, it should just turn as well.

I think I'd finish the Birf repack and then worry about the locker (but that's just me). The birfs can take awhile on the first time.

 

[cruiserdan]

Shifting the transfer to neutral disconects the input from the transmission, the front and rear outputs are still tied togther. He would also need to have the rear wheels off the ground.


The more I think about it the more I suspect an issue with the power supply to unlock it.

 

[Gauge]

Looks like there are 6 wires going to the locker. Can anyone tell me what the color schematic is? I'll pull the plug and try testing the wires.

Also, I drained the oil in the front axle. It is greyish black and there were some small pieces of metal stuck to the magnet at the end of the drain plug that looked and felt like metal fish scales. Any idea what that is? Doesn't sound good.

 

[cruiserdan]

The metal is likely normal. You will see small bits like that from time to time. That is why the magnet is there.

 

[Rich]

It is not uncommon that Toyota fails to properly clean out the machining swarf from the axles prior to assembly. That sounds like what you have found on your drain plug magnet.

The greyish black color of your drained diff oil indicates that some birfield grease has migrated from the birfields into the diff. Again, this is common.

 

[Gauge]

There are 5 wires NOT 6. Sorry about that.

The Factory Service Manual I have does not have the wiring diagram for the locker.

I just pulled off the locker actuator. It looks OK. I would like to test it. I assume this is motor of some sort that pushes the pin to the lock the diff? So if I turn it on, it should turn one way and if I turn it off it should spin the other way correct?

 

[cruiserdan]

Do you have a fax?

 

[e9999]

isn't there something along the lines of needing to have the locker locked to do the Birf job to avoid having "things" moving around? if so, you would need to do the job while being locked anyway...

 

[Doc]

e- that's for the REAR axle. He's on the front one.

 

[cruiserdan]

Doc is correct. However if you intend to remove the dif from the housing it should be locked first.

 

[Josh83]

However if you intend to remove the dif from the housing it should be locked first.

Why is that?

 

[cruiserdan]

Because you will get hung up on the open dog-clutch.