Front drive shaft?

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Aug 11, 2010
I have an 88 fj62, soa'd, I just found an 82 60 in a local yard. I wanted to get the front shaft out of it, but they seem to be pretty proud of it. They want 125 for the front shaft. My question is this too much, and will I still have to have the shaft sized? My pinion is pointed at the case at about 14deg. Any thoughts?
$125 is not too far out of line, I've sold them for $100. Yes you will need to have it legthened and the flanges will be different.
And, if your pinion is pointed at the case ( like you stated).....then YES, you will need that DC shaft.
i have a 62 with soa and cnt.

i used a front shaft+rear slip yoke, and it fit in the front

my diff is pointed straight at the diff

i recommend a double cardan(dc) drive shaft(ds) front and rear

used a 85 solid axle mini truck drive shaft for the rear, i plan on doing the same with the front

i payed 50$ for the mini truck drive shaft. there happen to be a bunch around my area... i think spending 125$ on something that wont fit is not wise

is the drive shaft from the 82fj60 a dc ds? if yes, then 125 is not a bad, but its still not going to fit without modification, or a possible rear slip yoke

Don't forget that ujoints and a new center ball for that DC shaft are about another 100 dollars, yes you can rebuild it.

My main concern with the 82 shaft is that the splines are fairly short. About an inch shorter than the splines on a non DC driveshaft from other 60's. They were only used because the tcase was so close to the front axle. So there was less overall movement to the splines in a stock SUA rig. This is why I am putting the spline section and yoke from a later 60 into an early DC driveshaft.

If you do want to use the 82 shaft all you have to do is pull your old 62 yoke, but just the short part that the ujoint is connected to and attach it to the 60 shaft, that solves the diff end. While the DC ujoints are different all the other ujoints are the same from 81-90. For the tcase end just drill a second set of holes that match the DC shaft pattern. This link explains the swapping of driveshaft ends. The Wagon Way

Length is still a problem though, you might even consider cutting the DC section out of the 82 shaft and have welded to your old 62 driveshaft. The tube is the same size if I remember correctly, double check to be sure. Should be enough extra to account for the length you need with a SOA.

Thanks for the input. I will try and knock the price down a bit, that is if the dc doesnt need rebuilt. I already got a quote of 150 from a local shop on lengthening the shaft. After all that I might be better off just getting a new shaft. 125(shaft)+150(sizing)+100(ujoints and ball) thats almost the price of a new custom shaft from tom woods shafts.
One more question before this thread is laid to rest. I have a mini truck cv shaft, and picked up that 60 cv shaft today. Which would be best to run front, rear? And the mini truck cv doesnt have that much angle. Ive read it before but have no short term memory, what is the best way to clearance it for more angle? Any links to threads on this procedure would be awesome..

Thanks for all your help.
there are at least 4 different mini cv joints. and they all seem to have different amounts of operating angle. check out marlin's site for more info.
i like using the early fj60 front shafts with the oem CVs. as long as you're not running a shackle reversal, the shorter splines will not be an issue if the shaft is built to the right specs ( fully compressed and fully extended ).
fwiw, you can re-drill the existing t-case and pinion flangs since they're round and there's still more than enough real estate left for at least two more bolt patterns. no need to change flanges as long as the job is done right. that way you can carry the old shaft(s) for spare(s) and not have to worryabout changing flanges.
georg @ valley hybrids
ps: the pinion flanges are available as blanks or with multi-patterns already drilled in them as well........

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