Front brake pads sitting high on the rotor and a very hard to diagnose creaking from the front end. (1 Viewer)

[Tools R Us]

Have seen a few sets of pads that fit like that, likely made to fit more than one application? Other than being more difficult to gauge wear, never had a problem with them.

 

[skip96lc80]

I'm having the same issue, but only about 1/16th of an inch overlap. I did install new rotors but before I changed them I put them on a side by side comparison to make sure it was the exact same and compatible, caliper bolts snug. The only other thing I can think of is to replace with new calipers since everything else is new, new guide pins, new retention spring, I even installed the oem shim kit on the pads. I can't for the life of me think of what else it could be.

Thanks again.

 

[graystephen]

My inclination is that the overlap is to allow you to replace pads without removing the caliper because of a ridge on the rotor after excessive wear. It will prevent wearing the inner portion of the rotor creating a ridge on the outer edge thus holding the pads semi-permanently in place. it's just a guess but it makes sense to me.

 

[SmokingRocks]

If you have the right pads, calipers And rotors then 100% of pad surface should contact 100% of the rotor surface. No race car, commuter car, truck or SUV that I’ve ever serviced has had an overlapping pad.

It makes no logical sense to have an overlapping pad as the pad is the friction surface, why would they make some of the friction surface hang off the edge of the rotor? It is a waste of material and serves no purpose.

Something isn’t right, I suspect you have either wrong rotors, wrong calipers or wrong brake pads.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Pictures of your rotor, caliper and pads would help.

If I had to guess I would say that what you are experiencing is the result of misc incorrectly sized autozone & rock auto brake parts

 

[BILT4ME]

My inclination is that the overlap is to allow you to replace pads without removing the caliper because of a ridge on the rotor after excessive wear. It will prevent wearing the inner portion of the rotor creating a ridge on the outer edge thus holding the pads semi-permanently in place. it's just a guess but it makes sense to me.

Ummmmm.......No.

 

[BILT4ME]

If the front is using 80 series rotors and 100 series pads, it is NOT uncommon for the front pads to wear in this fashion because the pad surface is larger on the 100 series pads. There is a whole thread (or 10) dedicated to this issue.

 

[SmokingRocks]

What’s the point of using the 100 pad then??? They are larger? If the pad hangs off the rotor your not gaining anything

 

[BILT4ME]

What’s the point of using the 100 pad then??? They are larger? If the pad hangs off the rotor your not gaining anything

I won't get into details in this thread about the differences in detail.
In a nutshell:
100 Series pads are thicker = longer wear
100 series pads are more surface area = this is debated due to surface pressures, etc. that you need to look into the other thread that explains it all a lot more.
100 series pads SOMETIMES have the 1/16" lip on them during wear. This can be a variance of OEM vs Aftermarket, VS worn calipers, bolts, and pins.....

The original idea is that the 100 series pads are larger and thicker, and give longer life. I will NOT address braking performance, as I am NOT a braking engineer.

I got 50K mile on the front only with 100 series pads and 80 series slotted and drilled rotors. I do very little offroading.

 

[SmokingRocks]

huh alright, well sounds like a great on road option. I run my rig enough that dirt, oil and grease end up contaminating pads far before 25k so they get replaced. Also with ABS and LSPV delete, new reman calipers and stock rotors I can lock up all 4 of my 35" toyo's on any surface.

 

[Tools R Us]

If you have the right pads, calipers And rotors then 100% of pad surface should contact 100% of the rotor surface. No race car, commuter car, truck or SUV that I’ve ever serviced has had an overlapping pad.
...

Have seen it several times, my guess, in most cases, it's manufactures attempting to cover too many applications with one number. In a couple of cases rotors have been damaged due to the pads looking new at a glance. Other than that and never noted any difference, not "correct" but not a big deal.

...
If I had to guess I would say that what you are experiencing is the result of misc incorrectly sized autozone & rock auto brake parts

Lets see, no parts stores manufacture pads, some label them. Like most parts stores, Rock Auto offers whatever the warehouses that supply them have, in the case of brake pads, they offer what 50 different choices? Rock Auto doesn't have anyone to help you with your selection, if you need that, choose one of the other sources. So other than price, what would be the difference between say, ADVICS or Akebono pads from Rock Auto or from Amazon, or NAPA, or.... In other words, if you get poor pads, it's likely because you ordered poor pads, doesn't matter where they come from.

Personally, don't need the "help" of snot nosed kids that most parts stores call "parts experts". Comfortable making my own parts selection, so often order online, including from Rock Auto and have been pleased with their service.

 

[BILT4ME]

Personally, don't need the "help" of snot nosed kids that most parts stores call "parts experts". Comfortable making my own parts selection, so often order online, including from Rock Auto and have been pleased with their service.

I chuckle at this because of the truth.

Many years ago, I worked behind the counter, back when there were BOOKS, and you had to find the parts with the guy on the phone (service shop or dealership in a hurry) and you learned how to get there quickly and accurately.

You could also cross-reference the books to find things by dimensions or other close part numbers.

Now, if the computer doesn't say it, you can't find it. It irritates the heck out of me.

My oldest son works at O'Reilly and there are some real doozy's that start work there. I shopped at a LOT of different stores and different brand names before I found the ONE store that seemed to have the smartest people at it. That's the one at which my son now works.

Most of the time, I have looked up my parts before I go into the store, then ask them to look it up and then I challenge them when they get it wrong, then educate them on why I'm right.

I also always ask the new kid to come check the codes on my 59 Studebaker.........

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Most of the time, I have looked up my parts before I go into the store, then ask them to look it up and then I challenge them when they get it wrong, then educate them on why I'm right.
...

I usually call the parts store, check price/availability, and yes, try to always have brand(s) and part number(s) that is what I order by. We use Rock Auto much more than we buy from them, their web site is great for looking stuff up, easy to use. Always have Rock Auto up on the page for the part we are talking about, if the price is way out of line, mention that I'm seeing it for significantly less. I realize a brick & motor cant compete, but it's often good for some savings.

Because they have accounts at most of the same wholesale distributors as the local parts stores (for sure the two biggest ones here) what they list is a good indicator of what is available. Click "info" and some of the brands list alternate/OEM part number(s), makes lookup handy.

If there is time for delivery, thinking about ordering on line, I highlight the brand/part number, right click, search google. Price check Amazon, etc, sometimes Rock Auto makes sense, other times not so much.

We also use it when going to the pick&pull. Say a goal is a window motor, clicking on the part number brings up a list other cars that number is used on, often increases the chances if a nice part. Clicking on info brings up pictures, plug, gear tooth count, etc. Big aid in quickly finding the right parts.

That web site is very handy and easy to use, usually is up on the shop screen.