Front brake disc conv, 74 fj40 with 83 fj60 knuck/hub/birf (2 Viewers)

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Apr 18, 2010
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It was either rebuild the whole drum set up or do swap...
Brake pedal has always been hard as a rock with merely a hint of deceleration which may indicate booster issues. Pretty sure that is original to the 74.
I have the longer braided lines to install as well that will give the lift room to move.
That brake fluid looks old and dirty.
I replaced seals and bearings on rear (oil was leaking into drums) and replaced shoes and hardware so that now i have some slowing.
Brake pedal changed to a little softer after that, perhaps i have some air after pressing the brake pedal to confirm all cylinders work on all 4 wheels -they do.
I have the parts from the 83 and will need:
Knuckle rebuild kit for 83fj60
Bearing and seals for 74
Hub kit for 83 aisin hubs
New rotors
New calipers ( were missing)
Grease
FSM for the 83 bits
Sooooo, time to start calling around for parts and i see prices going nuts.
Was missing small hardware like cone washers and steering arm nuts... and spacers oh well.

Any thoughts, tips, links, or parts Love to hear it.

I would love to get these parts blasted clean and painted... wonder if a local shop might do that-im in Trinidad, CO

Will be doing this job on a level driveway slab with portable shade. Have decent tools, will rent bearing puller set.

Wish me luck!👍😊

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Definitely consider swapping the master cylinder to a disk/drum unit (rock auto is where I got mine) the reason is drum brake cylinders have very different pressure/volume requirements than calipers do. It will be difficult to safely balance them with a drum/drum master.

1976 fj40 brake master -rock auto
 
Definitely consider swapping the master cylinder to a disk/drum unit (rock auto is where I got mine) the reason is drum brake cylinders have very different pressure/volume requirements than calipers do. It will be difficult to safely balance them with a drum/drum master.

1976 fj40 brake master -rock auto
 
I was just ordering from cityracer, his booster/MC/and proportioning valve. His guide tells me to use the MC from a93 LC along with dual diaphragm booster.


I love Rock auto, I'm going to look right now.

I've still got loaded calipers/rotors/hardware/shims/knuckle rebuild kit/wheel bearings coming from jt...
 
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How do you like your brakes? Would you have done anything different? I see you used a76FJ40 MC with disc/drum combo.

My brain was telling me i prolly need the MC for the 83 FJ60 parts... city racer says use the MC for 93. I see that Rock even has the Aisin/Advics! I feel sure that the 76 would be fine for me too.

I'm going to dig around on RockAuto and see if I can get under budget for this brake job, lol.

That's what makes these things so fun
 
MC/Booster/Proportioning valve coming from CityRacer.

loaded calipers/knuckle rebuild kit/rotors/hardware/shims for steering arms all coming from Cruiseroutfitters.

I'm gagging on the Knuckle Centering Tool... $285 for one-time use. Anyone want to rent or sell me a used one?

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I have a 76 master on my 76 disk/drum stock setup. Haven’t driven it yet. 😂😂

On my 78 I have a disk/disk master from a non abs 80-series and it’s perfect. I did the GM caliper conversion on the back so it does have disks all around. I added a Willwood proportioning valve for the rear balance and it’s totally fine.
 
MC/Booster/Proportioning valve coming from CityRacer.

loaded calipers/knuckle rebuild kit/rotors/hardware/shims for steering arms all coming from JT outfitters.

I'm gagging on the Knuckle Centering Tool... $285 for one-time use. Anyone want to rent or sell me a used one?

@dazerb Where are you located? I'm in Raleigh, and have a knuckle centering tool....
 
My experience has been that front disc brakes require far less maintenance than drum. My first set of pads lasted 100k miles vs 20k for shoes. They also still perform after a water crossing, whereas drums don’t work with water in them.

I’d highly recommend rear discs when they need to be done again, but they are good enough for now.

Adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit is necessary in my experience. I’ve had front discs with 2 different sets/types of rear drums and the rear drums locked too easily without one.
 
Not to be difficult, just different. I put Toyota front discs on the Pig in 2004 or so. Kept the stock '74 master cylinder. Had great brakes. Added Posers rear discs a few years later. Stock '74 master. No proportioning valve. (But longer wheelbase). Still great brakes. Years later added the City Racer booster and 80 series master. Still had great brakes.
I don't think you could put together a dual circuit Toyota disc brake system that didn't work well.
 
@dazerb Where are you located? I'm in Raleigh, and have a knuckle centering tool....
Thanks! I'm in Trinidad Colorado. Appreciate you, ... maybe i can find someone who used it once and won't need it again so they can make some money on it???
I don't think i can borrow this from parts store , but ima check. We have a Toyota dealer in town-the only one.
 
My experience has been that front disc brakes require far less maintenance than drum. My first set of pads lasted 100k miles vs 20k for shoes. They also still perform after a water crossing, whereas drums don’t work with water in them.

I’d highly recommend rear discs when they need to be done again, but they are good enough for now.

Adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit is necessary in my experience. I’ve had front discs with 2 different sets/types of rear drums and the rear drums locked too easily without one.
👍👍
 
Not to be difficult, just different. I put Toyota front discs on the Pig in 2004 or so. Kept the stock '74 master cylinder. Had great brakes. Added Posers rear discs a few years later. Stock '74 master. No proportioning valve. (But longer wheelbase). Still great brakes. Years later added the City Racer booster and 80 series master. Still had great brakes.
I don't think you could put together a dual circuit Toyota disc brake system that didn't work well.
Thanks for this! I am a sponge for various perspectives. I AM getting the 80 MC for a93. I assume that will work for future rear discs.

Struggling to stay under budget🤣🤣
 
Thanks for this! I am a sponge for various perspectives. I AM getting the 80 MC for a93. I assume that will work for future rear discs.

Struggling to stay under budget🤣🤣
It will.

Running an 80 booster & master now with 4 wheel discs. A two finger jab will lock all four wheels on dry pavement.

You may need to add an inline 10lb residual valve,,, disc masters usually have a 2 lb one.

I removed the residual valves from my ‘74 master and ran it for years with discs.
 
I did the exact same swap in my 40, 83 front axle parts on my 74. I kept the master cylinder from the 74 up front. Just pulled the front diaphragm if I remember correctly.

That was 10 years ago, I just changed the front pads a couple of months ago, just because I was in there.
 
Thanks! I am assembling all parts, MC/Booster/Valve from City Racer is on its way...

I am awaiting bearings from Cruiseroutfitters and they will ship rebuild kits/built calipers/rotors when they do...

One thing I will need is the HARD line on the backing plate from the fitting to the caliper. I have steel braided to replace all the soft lines which will also give my lift room to flex after that install. Was waiting to do the whole brake operation at once.
But the hard line was destroyed by the person who pulled the calipers before me.

I may be able to use one of the old lines on the 40, but would rather get one properly bent already.

Seems like everyone gets rid of the backing plate when they do this job... they must run the hose straight to the caliper while adding a spacer. I plan on cleaning and reusing the backing plate to keep the original engineering... Feels better to me and the line will be pinned out of the way.

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The hard brake lines are still available from Toyota I believe, I kept the backing plates on my 40, no problems in 10 plus years.
 
FYI, Cruiser Outfitters is an outstanding source for most of what you need.
 
The hard brake lines are still available from Toyota I believe, I kept the backing plates on my 40, no problems in 10 plus years.
28 years and no problem with the backing plate. I’ve got brake line pliers to bend the hard line… just have them made the right length and takes 5 minutes a side to bend them to fit. Easier than finding a vin number for an equivalent 40 with discs. Toyota won’t willingly supply any parts which the computer says didn’t come on my ‘74 4 wheel drum brake 40.
 

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