Front brake disc conv, 74 fj40 with 83 fj60 knuck/hub/birf

Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Knuckle day🤗

Have all new tops, studs, cones, washers, bolts.
Did the whole sst as indicated in fsm twice. It made it clear where to measure. Ran into the problem with the scribe assy wobbly in good looking sleeve. I just held it in tightly until i could repeat measurements.
Measured all many times.
I had to look up instructions and videos.
At first i was stuck because i hadn't zeroed the calipers🫤🤔 my D measurement was 28...😕🥸
Think i made it onto the right track now but I've got 16lbs pulling on the arm so i know i did something wrong. My pack of shims are 4 per side and are all .5mm.
Needed .6 on bottom and 1.7 on top according to my highly suspect measurements so i did 3 on top and 1 on bottom.
I will take pics of my calcs on the instruction page,

Gonna put the birf in a Vice to drop in inner axle. Tight fit. The joint bearings and races are unmoveable by hand as i unwrap them New.

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
1. I foolishly did not order enough nuts for knuckle. I didn't realize how much bigger the 83 fj60 studs are. I have enough for one side so can finish drivers side.
2. Cleaned out threads. I love having the right tool for the job!
3. My tie Rod looks bent? I have the Ends from 555 so i may as well replace them all while I'm at it. I'll pull it and measure center to center... clean, paint and replace.
4. Having a RAT problem at the rig. Huge bustards are eating my wiring!!!!🤬🤬🤬🤬 But there is a solution

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Man. I have spent 2 half days with this centering tool and putting the knuckles on and off...
LHS: i got it all together for 3rd time, only 5 lbs on arm pull.
I have 8 shims with kit that are ALL .5
I have some 1mm and a couple of beat up .30 that were original to the knuck. No idea where and what as all were on the ground when i got it.
My measurements seem to be getting closer though.
I currently have .30 on bottom and 2mm on top. BUT si was checking it, i realized i has used the wrong knuck for second measure on spindle to get "D". Colossal airhead. No intoxicants involved.

Thank you Coolerman! For the write up

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
I can install a knuckle in my sleep now.
New set of measurements with 7lbs final on steering arm.
THEN I remembered that i needed to grind down my axle opening when my newly put together axle wouldn't slide in. Keeping me humble.
I took equal amounts off top and bottom so ready to put it on again but the rain just started again

I was able to put axle together by dropping the inner axle down into t the birf. I used a small screwdriver to push the inner clip AROUND from one end to the other while gently pushing down.
I got them apart slamming down into a piece of tubing locked in the Vice.

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Knuckle centering tool: You just got to keep doing it until it all starts to make sense. When the measurements start to repeat, you know you are getting it right. I hope.
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
I have ordered a 54mm nut. No one Carries such a thing locally. I ended up with 12lbs on the hub by mirroring the FSM procedure s best i could (40lbs 5 turns, back it off, torque again, turn , back it off) but i had to tap on my nuts (😏) with brass drift to tighten and loosen

I have a large seal and a couple of gaskets left over from the Terrain Tamer kit. Will pic but i saw these left over in a guppie thread too.

I have enough knowledge to get through most things but it's funny how i hit these "walls" of "I have no idea if this is right"... like how tight that birf joint seemed til i plugged the other axle in and filled it with grease.

Thank God for guppie, as his old post really helped me when i started to grind my axle housing. At first i was just going to check fit with birf alone... but you NEED the whole axle together (be careful around that new seal!) to know if it will clear at assembled angle. Saved me a lot of grief. Think i slid it in an out about 8 times (that's what she said)...
I appreciate the overall body workout ( and my wife thinks i don't exercise)... Sure I even hit target Heart rate dropping the axle, or realizing i have to pull the knuckle for the 8th time (but it gets so easy), or when i forgot the gasket behind the spindle...😄

I am in pause while i confirm gasket leftovers are just "extras"?? I will post these when i can pic

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Seems like the gaskets are universal but is that big seal supposed to be somewhere????

I have the inner axle oil seal.
hub grease seal on inner bearing in the hub.

I have a Haynes which is okay for the 74 and i have the front axle FSM for the 83 fj60. But i don't see that seal on any exploded view. Not sure if i am missing some hub detail...
the FSM does not show the race/bearings/seal that i put in the inner side of the main hub body... so am i missing something else??

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Well... no idea about that seal... I've rewatched all the videos, reread the tutorials and i don't see it.
I DID however make sure to grease the spindle and dust seal... i had failed to do that prior.

Good thing i bought the small hard lines for the backing plate... is the only way i knew which calipers goes on which side🧐 Been looking at drums so long.

I bead blasted the round caps that hold the hub flange in place. Can't have old crappy nuts next to the shiny schwagg

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Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
253
Location
Paso Robles, CA
My 76 is apart right now too, I'm replacing the inner axle seal. The size of your leftover seal looks like my inner wheel bearing seal.



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This is the only picture of it I could find in the FSM:

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Nice work, by the way. 👍🏻
 
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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Thanks Bri, 🤗

There was a set of smaller seals that fit in the back over each inner bearing and race...

These are really big, looks like could fit around spindle or somewhere in that confusing backing plate sandwich. I'll post up a better pic with the comparison. So they look like extra inner seals which came with the wheel bearings too

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Blackhawk helo placing power poles all morning.
Break to cook some hash over the fire.
And just look at that nasty knuckle! It was so much worse than drivers side in term s of bad bearings and notchy rotation.

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
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So it turns out those tire Rod ends had boots at one time... prolly went missing back in the 90s... wonder if new ends will improve steering😉
Pulled the MC and Booster... think is all original with that red spray from PO. Silver on the firewall = painted part.

I'm now looking at how to match all this up, hoping city racer has some info on swapping the Booster and adding the 93 MC while getting the push rod spacing correct. Aaaaaand City racer has a fully detailed set up guide on his site 👍👍

Got the new steel soft lines put in front and back that will enable articulation...
played with that one Rusty hard line (drivers side) but got it free and installed. Soaked in PB blaster most of the week, flare wrench back and forth until it came free.

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
I've got that tire Rod end soaking in PB... it is bent. New one is another hundy... gonna roll with it.

Got to take my last set of measurements

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Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
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So it turns out those tire Rod ends had boots at one time... prolly went missing back in the 90s... wonder if new ends will improve steering😉
Pulled the MC and Booster... think is all original with that red spray from PO. Silver on the firewall = painted part.

I'm now looking at how to match all this up, hoping city racer has some info on swapping the Booster and adding the 93 MC while getting the push rod spacing correct.

Got the new steel soft lines put in front and back that will enable articulation...
played with that one Rusty hard line (drivers side) but got it free and installed. Soaked in PB blaster most of the week, flare wrench back and forth until it came free.

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Take a look at your fourth picture, you'll see that the spring center pin is smaller than the hole in the spring perch. What you need to do is either get a larger center pin or make a bushing that will center the pin in the spring perch hole. Here is how you can make a bushing. Pictures start in post #2 in this thread.
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Thanks Byron,
That makes sense! I hadn't noticed, or assumed it didn't matter... Adding it to the list!!

And good eye!
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Booster is in.

Ready to finish knuckle as soon as my nuts show up. Should be delivered sometime today.
Was 2 short.

Still soaking tire Rod end in PB. If i can't break that end off, i might buy a new one for $98. It is pretty bent anyway... The road itself

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
100
Knuckle complete. Had to pull it all apart to put my backing plate and sandwich in...
measure and measure again.
Had to adjust shims a few times and ended up with 1.5 mm on bottom and a 0.80mm on top. 8.5 lbs on steering arm
New tie Rod ready to assemble
And final pic is the shop supervisor

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Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Messages
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I had no proportioning valve before so i don't know what to do with this...
Assume it goes on rear line????? Which is inner? Outlet?
I guess i need to rig this up with another piece of hard line?
Gonna dig through FAQs but if anyone can steer me in the right direction...???

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Joined
May 9, 2021
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Correct. Proportioning valve typically goes on the rear circuit so that the rear brakes do not lock up before the front. There is a short brake line that goes from the rear master cylinder to the in port of the PV and then the out port ties into your rear brake line.
 

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