Front Backing Plate Elimination (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MSGGrunt
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Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
You can cut down the existing plate and use the remainder as the 'spacer'.
Call mark up from Marks Off Road 65swb45 is his mud name
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I don't want to cut down my current plates. I want something more sanitary. I found that Marlin has them. I wonder if their price is for a pair?
Backing Plate Eliminator | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
The next thing would be longer, one piece DoT SS brake lines.
Backing Plate Eliminator | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
The next thing would be longer, one piece DoT SS brake lines.
Specter sells a kit with new stainless lines. The lines are a bit long but it works. Just put it on my diesel a few weeks ago.
Tony
Tony
Mark makes and supplies marlin and $OR with the eliminator kits. And they are sold in pairs.
You don't need a fancy kit. Cut the backing plate so just the center bolt circle is left and use a NAPA #38881 brake line as the replacement. Bingo, done.
It's not that it's a fancy kit. I noticed that when I changed my brake lines over to stainless there is a better feel to the pedal. Took out some of the sponge compared to original (and old) lines. The stainless are a little less prone to getting torn up on the trail as well.
Tony
Tony
True, just putting on new lines will make it feel better. The rubber lines from napa are so cheap though, how much would a set of stainless lines cost?
Why do you want to do this?
So when you rebuild your front axle for regular maintenance or to repair a birfield, you do not have to bleed your brakes. At least that's why I did it.
Call Mark as was said above (see my sig line) ... He sells a very nice kit and the SS brake lines are DOT approved. Call him - email is NOT his forte.
(818) 953-9230
You can see them in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...-rotors-backing-plate-eliminator-install.html
(818) 953-9230
You can see them in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...-rotors-backing-plate-eliminator-install.html
I bought the kit from SOR. I am a club SOR member, so I get the discount, so I figured what the heck. I have not installed mine yet. I like the idea of eliminating that extra hard line and fitting.
(Spike, that avi is killing me! I read the story about that dude!)
(Spike, that avi is killing me! I read the story about that dude!)
ntsqd
technerd
Going to SS brake hoses I can see. I don't get eliminating the shields either. If you insist though I'm interested in the 62 shields.
euclid
SILVER Star
I'm pleased with my marlin supplied spacers. Got my stainless extension lines from Mark at K2 last year in a pinch.
Well, there's a reason they call the backing plate "Rock Catchers" ... It's quite a pain to be on the trail and suddenly get a horrible squealing from your passenger wheel, then have to pull it apart to find a small rock wedged between the rotor and shield.
When you disassemble the front axle, the backing plate has the brake union that accepts the soft line from the axle housing and has a hard line that goes to the caliper. You cannot disassemble the knuckle without taking the brake line off that goes to the housing because the backing plate will not pull out over the spindle, the brake line is too short. Therefore you need to separate the brake line and bleed the brakes after you're done.
Eliminating the shields and running a single brake line from the caliper to the axle housing allows you to rebuild the axle without having to bleed the brakes. All you have to do is tie up the caliper to the shock tower or something with a length of string. If you use the NAPA 38881 line, it's long enough that you can set the caliper on the spring without stressing the brake line.
ntsqd
technerd
I get the brake line/hose part. I eliminated that short tube and the fitting on mine.
I've never had it happen or seen anyone get a rock stuck between the shield and the rotor. I'm not saying that it can't happen, just that I don't see any point in sacrificing on-road braking performance and rotor life for a 1/10th of 1% event.
I've never had it happen or seen anyone get a rock stuck between the shield and the rotor. I'm not saying that it can't happen, just that I don't see any point in sacrificing on-road braking performance and rotor life for a 1/10th of 1% event.
True, you can do the brake line mod without cutting up the backing plate. Does it really help performance that much though?
euclid
SILVER Star
I took my backing plate off because it's a huge pain every time you break down the knuckles. Even with bolts instead of rivets holding the brake line to the backing plate it's just another awkward piece of the knuckle puzzle.
Gone, no noticeable breaking performance difference.
Gone, no noticeable breaking performance difference.
