Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Do you have a caliper? Measure. Maybe some light sanding on the new will give it the room it needs to fit snugly. 600 grit perhaps.
Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Romer
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That's the gasket for the outer cap section of an Aisin freewheel hub used on factory part-time 4wd 80 series (like mine).
There's another gasket (might be identical to the one used for the drive flanges on full-time 4wd 80's) for the body of the Aisin hub to mount to the actual wheel hub.
One trick (I'm sure everyone knows it!) is to make a pair of bearing race 'tools' using one of each size of race from an old bearing, cut a slot with hacksaw, carefully clean the cut area around the outside of the race, then you have two nifty tools to assist with seating new bearing races in the hubs. As the front and rear hubs on 80's used exactly the same two bearing sizes, they'll work for doing bearing replacement on both front and rear. Also, when setting the races, only ever use a brass punch not a steel one. Brass being soft metal won't damage steel surfaces.
I dont haved a caliper. Should have brought them with me to work and took them to Napa or something. Thanks for your response. Just discussing it helps me regroup. 600 eh? I suppose if I sand the hell out of them I'll eventually get my room. Only need to do one. Noticed last night my new rear seal had its spring popped out while just hanging out on the parts table. Turned out to be a helluva job to complete. Tougher than I thought it would be but learned a lot. Heat is on big time where I'm at so that makes it even more fun. Thanks for your help MUD
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
I've a great digital cheap caliper that's invaluable during my rebuilds. Pretty close to this one on Amazon. Probably used it 100 times to measure things. Well worth the $20. Probably saved me $200 in avoiding incorrect purchases.
Hey Tom how is it going? Any luck?
hey man thanks for checking in. I really only have the weekends to go all out but I do have some small updates. Started sanding inner bearing. Decided to call cruiser outfitters and they gave me their ear. Before I went Thor I wanted to verify inner bearing diameter. They rock by the way. Buy everything you need from them. Anyway inside diameter of a bearing i took off and a new koyo both came to 49.6mm. No need to bother checking back with them, they are the right ones. So why are they so tight? Has to be spindles. Funny how easy the hub came off but new ones won't go on though. So I've yet to decide whether to Thor mg way into poundtown or just say eff it and order new spindles. Don't want to get the damn things on half way to only give up then trg to separate the hub from the spindle. If i do beat on it im thinking 3lb brass. Maybe a dead blow. Never used a db. Anyone know the spindle shaft diameter at the inner bearing?
lol sorry
I'd guess that would be 49.6mm..
I'd guess that would be 49.6mm..
.....figured if I take the hub studs off and can get a nice surface for max poundage. So that's what I'll probably do.
I gutted my remaining side last night to pressure wash the parts before the weekend. My inner bearing inner diameter is 1.969 inches. The spindle shaft outer dia is 1.967 inches, so just .002 clearance. I think you're likely within spec, just fighting slight misalignment
I think it's a M42x1.5 thread if I can convert to metric and measured correctly. Assuming 80ksi steel (likely higher grade but wanted to be safe) it would take 160ft lbs of torque to shear just 2 full threads of the nut. It's close to 4 threads if you look close but the outer and inner threads are partial.... and yes I was bored at work today. If the spindle threads look good, and it's a new nut, clean one last time, lube and get it all on with the 54mm socket. It shouldn't take anywhere close to the shear limit to get it all seated down. After backing off everything will be centered up and smooth as buttah! Keep us posted
I feel empowered. I am unstoppable. I shall be victorious! And maybe wheelin in the NF this weekend..... Thanks for your help!
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Damn man put some sand paper on the bearing race. Or on the spindle, or both. You'll be surprised how a little room will allow that thing to seat in place.
I did and it worked! So both sides are on. Thought I ordered new lock nuts but can't find them. So a trip to Legacy in Tallahassee to get new ones and I should have it done. Thanks for your help!
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Excellent!
All I can say is... Damn that's one sweet truck! I gotta white 80 (probably heat induced) fever coming on. Settle down with those pics!
lol thanks. After a year and a half baselining Id like to move on to the fun stuff. Might take the damage multiplier off. Theres a lightbar on the roof I might take off. Needs paint. Needs comms. That's all fun. Can't justify it without the complete baseline. Next up is 50' of vac hoses...all the little guys. Rear axle I guess. Steering box leaks like crazy. Minor oil leaks. But its a helluva platform. And it's come a long ways. Need to make a thread for it someday.
Potentially a stupid question...
Are there any differences in these parts for a US spec FJ80 VS a Japenese spec HDJ81. Are the parts all the same?!
Are there any differences in these parts for a US spec FJ80 VS a Japenese spec HDJ81. Are the parts all the same?!
Another option is to put the bearing races in the freezer and the hub out in the sun. I did this on my second side and with a few hits of the hammer on the bearing race driver it slid right in. Much easier than the first side when they were both the same temperature.
Sonofaskipper
SILVER Star
Same except for the caliper diameter.
