Front axle is leaking oil - CPO warranty covered! (1 Viewer)

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Hi all,

My right front axle is leaking gear oil (mixing with grease) - haven't got any drops on the garage floor yet but sure they are going to be there soon. Any idea whether this item would be covered under the drivedrain(sp?) policy ?

Any tips are appreciated!!! I'm having an appointment tomorrow.

Frank.
 
Re:CPO question: Front axle is leaking oil - Is it covered ???

All,

Just received a call from the service advisor. They found that the right inner axle seal is leaking indeed - so both right & left seals are to be replaced under CPO warranty.

Cheers,
Frank.
 
I would; but since they're doing for free.... ::) Besides, my hands & 1 thumb still hurt with multiple work I've done last week (FJZ60 rear pads & rotors - BMW E30 fuel pump replacment & clogging radiator / stucked thermostat overheat combo) :D

:cheers:

Frank.
 
what is your mileage? Since they have it all apart anyway, I would get them to replace the knuckle bearings for sure and maybe the wheel bearings at the same time. The extra cost should be negligible and even if the bearings look fine, you will restart the clock on their service lifetime -- good for at least another 60k.
 
Semlin,

Mine now has 68Kmiles on her. When dropping her off, I went over the 60K service recommendations with the advisor but did not see any bearing replacements through out all service levels beside repacking the wheel bearings - so I don't think that they would replace any of that (unless they're bad because of the leaky seal); we'll see what they'd do after I get her back.

BTW, I've most of the maintenances myself up to date - Was about to tackle the full axle service till I remembered (yesterday) that I still have extended warranty ;)

Regards,
Frank.
 
they are probably fine, but why not replace cheap parts that wear out and expensive to access when you can?
 
Obviously I've never done(practiced) a front axle service - thus don't know which parts' removals are involved :-[ I asked them to turn my front rotors while it's out anyway (is it ?) but they come back saying that it's a labor instensive job & quoted more than $400 :eek: :eek: :eek: to do that (including new pads) - The reason I wanted the rotors turned because they're slightly warped (I think - shaky steering when tapping on brake pedal @ ~50MPH) and I have the 100 front pads (thanks, Dan!) in my garage that I'm gonna have to put in myself anyway..

Frank.
 
Wow, you need to spend more time here on the list! THEY may not have the knuckle bearings as an item, but your truck sure has. Should be just parts cost since they've got to remove and replace the old, now they just add the 10 min minutes to remove the old race and put in new race to the equation.

Also, for less than $400, you could have brand new Toyota rotors installed, and again the labor would be negligible. I think I paid about $180 for a pair of front rotors and pads from the dealer. Turning them will only thin them and guarantee they'll warp more completely upon the first high temp use. Then you're pulling them again...

IdahoDoug
 
$400 to turn the rotors when they have to pull the hub and rotors anyway to get to the inner seals? They are talking about the extra labour of undoing 10 bolts a side on a part that is already off the truck. Your service guy is either talking about turning all 4 rotors front and back or he is "mistaken" (I am being polite). I agree with Doug that you should not turn them anyway if they are warped. By all means, ask them to replace the rotors if they are warped (which they can scope for you), and ask them to replace the pads at the same time but the labour cost should be virtually nil (if you are very ambitious you can read up here on installing new 100 series pads when you replace the rotos on an 80 -- this will give you better brakes but requires an adjustment in a few weeks).

These guys do not sound right to me. Ask them for a list
of all the new parts they will be putting into this job. There should be a whole bunch of seals replaced and they should be repacking the wheel and knuckle bearings plus the CV (birfield) with fresh grease. Ask the guy to fax you a list of the parts and post it and we will tell you if anything is missing. If they are not doing all that, you are not getting the 60k axle service done and you should get them to do it. If they want to charge you extra to replace these parts, agree to pay for the parts and ask them what it costs in labour to open plastic bags and install new parts instead of reinstalling the old ones they have already removed to get at the inner seal. As far as the time to repack all the bearings and CV that they have to pull anyway to get at the inner seals, I'd say an hour for both sides is more than generous.
 
I agree, phone them first thing in the morning and get them to install new knuckle bearings and new seals all around. The parts are only like $300 max and money well spent. Just offer to pay the difference yourself.

Otherwise you'll be back here in a year or 2 doing it all over again.
 
All,

Just talked with the service advisor; he'll call me back for the list of new parts involved. He said besides the internal seals, also something about the knuckle kit (hope I heard that right - details to be posted once he call back); but he was not sure about any bearings though. From what I understand of your tips, at least knuckle bearings should be replaced (if not including the wheel bearings). Is that all ? Or is there anything else ? Could some one please list them all out or should I just compare it with Beowulf's front axle service parts list ?

Thanks again,
Frank.
 
Frank,
The knuckle kit is the gaskets and seals. It is almost always used when tearing into the knuckle. The kit does not include knuckle bearings or races.
-B-
 
04434-60051, kit
90366-20003, x4 trunion bearings
90310-35010, x2 shaft seals
90311-62001, x2 wheel bearing seals
 
Frank, here is my list:

1. Are they repacking the CV/birfields with fresh grease
2. Are they repacking the knuckle bearings with fresh grease?
3. If so, can they just replace the knuckle bearings instead. If so, how much extra?
4. Are they repacking the wheel bearings?
5. If so, can they just replace the wheel bearings? ?If so, how much extra?
6. Are they replacing all the seals and gaskets they are removing to get to the inner seal, plus the wiper seal?
7. Are you removing the hub and rotors?
8. If so, can you check the rotors to see if they are warped?
9. If warped, how much to replace the rotors?
10. If you replace the rotors, how much to replace the pads?


The answer to all these questions should be yes, and any extra cost to you modest except 5 and 9, and 10. I would hesitate on 5 and maybe on 9/10 . The wheel bearings are easier to get at than the knuckle bearings and also pricey from the dealer. At your mileage I would not replace them unless they showed trouble or he quoted you a very good price. As for the rotors, I have no idea what new Toyota rotors go for, but the cost to you should be that and a very little labour. If he gives you a fair parts price this is a bargain opportunity for you if your rotors are warped.

You didn't answer about putting 100 pads on so I assume you are not interested.
 
Just got a call from the dealer again - Looks like they use the kit (04434-60051) that C-dan posted. What am I missing here ? What are knuckle bearings & races ? Man, I sooo need a diagram to tell which one is which (of course, each parts need a name as well) - I'll search around!

Thanks, guys!
Frank.
 

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