Build From Wreck to Road: Restoring European HZJ74 No. 39

[Economist LC76]

There’s one more idea related to the dashboard. When leaving the truck open, I’d like to at least slightly reduce how easy it is to open the hood. On my old Suzuki Samurai, the hood release cable was located inside a lockable glove box. That inspired the idea of using the hood latch and cable from a RHD version and rerouting it into the glove box.

Of course, this won’t stop a serious theft attempt, but it’s still surprising that Toyota never thought about this on their soft-top versions.

By the way, here’s a small tip on how to tell a real factory soft top from an FRP conversion. Only soft tops have:
• a rubber, waterproof hazard switch,
• rubber boots on the steering column switches

Also, on FRP trucks the B-pillar is covered with plastic, while on soft tops it’s bare metal with two black plastic plugs.

Now we can easily find the difference

 

[Economist LC76]

For the Japanese market, Toyota never offered a mid-wheelbase soft top — only FRP versions. However, the short-wheelbase soft top was sold in Japan, and you can still occasionally find them on the Japanese market.

That said, the soft top was never available in the high-spec ZX trim. Among the differences: LX versions came without fender flares and with rear drum brakes, while ZX models always had fender flares, rear disc brakes, and a more upscale interior, including different door panels.

On Japanese soft tops, the door frames were almost always removable, and in those cases they were painted black. This paint rule applied worldwide.

I decided to paint the rear door frames body color.
I’m still a little ashamed of that decision.

 

[Economist LC76]

A little update on the project.
Soft-top models with a fold-down windshield use special windshield wiper arms. I’m not sure I’ll ever drive with the windshield down and collect bugs with my face, but it’s satisfying to find and install these small, enthusiast-grade open-air details.

This setup also includes rubber stays for the exposed windshield frame when it rests on the hood, and an instruction sticker mounted on the side of the dashboard explaining how to secure it.

Definitely a fetish thing.

PS There were two versions (Photo courtesy of IH8MUD)

 

[Economist LC76]

Next chapter: interior panels.

You might think: the 70 Series is still in production, so interior panels must be easy to buy. And probably cheap — just a piece of fiberboard with some vinyl on top, right?
No. No. And no.

Front and rear door panels are expensive, but with some effort, you can still find them. And then the fun begins: there are front doors for 71/73/74 and for the 76 series, versions with removable window frames, different window regulators (manual and power), and door handles that are interdependent with the panels.For the rear doors, there are two types of panels: more “luxury” ones with hidden clips, and more utilitarian ones with exposed clips.

So the obvious question is: why so many part numbers, if the doors have looked the same for forty two years?

But the real special case is the cargo-area side panels for the mid-wheelbase models (73/74). When I finally found a used set in Japan and installed them, I realized the access door didn’t fit my HZJ74. It turned out the panels were from a BJ74 — and the jack compartment door is different.

Add to that two different types of mounting clips for these panels, with almost no obvious logic to their distribution. Both versions — red and yellow — look nearly identical (Some people say the sharper clips were used for blind areas, to make it easier to hit the body holes. I don’t buy it.)

At some point you start to realize that having custom panels made in factory style — or even going more radical with aluminum cargo panels — is often a much more practical solution and saves you a lot of sanity.

 

[Economist LC76]

Next comes the seat belt saga.

There are a lot of good explanations about seat belts on the forums. But without constant repetition, all that information tends to fly out of your head — like valence electrons from a high-school chemistry class. The main practical conclusion, as far as I remembered, was that the current production belts are black.
I wanted gray.

In Japan, gray belts were available for HZJ71/74/76 from my production years — but only right-hand ones (driver’s side for RHD). Brand new, and beautifully gray. From the listings, it looked like the left ones were no longer produced. I don’t know if that’s 100% true, but only right sides were for sale.

I figured that since later models used more unified belts, I could buy two right-hand ones and install one on the left.

In theory, everything looked perfect — right up until I discovered that the mounting of the retractor spring box was different. I didn’t want to drill the steel bracket, so I decided to rewind the new belt onto my old spring unit, which had the correct mounting.

I even had photos left from doing the same operation on my BJ43 project. You carefully pull the belt all the way out, fully unwinding the open reel, lock the spring with a screwdriver, remove the locking mechanism, and swap the belt webbing.

In the end, I got clean gray seat belts.

P.S. I almost forgot the shipping drama. The auction house refused to ship the belts internationally, not wanting to risk their relationship with Japan Post, because pyrotechnic pretensioners are prohibited for international shipping. After a hundred emails, drawings, and explanations, they finally agreed to bend the rules and ship these “primitive” belts to a domestic Japanese address.
So I had to find a good Samaritan in Japan who received them and then calmly forwarded them to me.

 

[Economist LC76]

Next came an unexpected problem: rear wheel arch covers.

On soft tops, on all markets except Japan, there were no wheel arch covers from the factory.

But I really didn’t want to drive with bare metal arches — they get scratched easily and they’re noisy.

Practice shows that when it comes to rubber flooring, there are a million part numbers and nothing is actually available. I eventually managed to find rubber wheel arch covers from a 76 Series, but the shipping quote was like paying for a tunnel to Australia. Supposedly they “can’t be folded,” although it feels more like parts sellers lately are making money on shipping rather than on margins.

In the end, I found carpet-type wheel arch covers from a 76. That’s what I’ll try to use. At least they roll up easily.

For reference, the available carpet versions for the 76 Series from 2007 onward are:
62613-60372-B1 (right) and 60614-60312-B1 (left).

P.S. What calms me a bit is that the rear-facing side of the back vinyl seat is also carpeted, and this material actually handles cargo better — it doesn’t show marks as easily. So maybe a rubber floor with carpet wheel arch covers won’t look too wrong after all.

 

[Economist LC76]

Almost there. It really feels like we’re on the final straight.
Finishing the last bits of paint.

And, of course, solving new problems.
Finding a new hood is basically impossible. And on my original hood — which was in beautiful condition and already finished — it turned out during assembly that it has the large holes for the windshield washer nozzles. So now I need to find the early-style washer nozzles — the wider, two-piece design. Door pockets, the jack holder… back to hunting in Japan.

The fuel filler neck, with all its brackets and rubber parts. Who knew that on the 73/74 it’s a special one — different not only from the standard versions, but even between different mid-wheelbase production generations…

Hood insulation. Thanks, FedEx — judging by the shipping bill, it felt like I had bought a small block of shares. And then customs, of course, didn’t forget to charge me VAT including the shipping cost.
Where is this world going?

 

[Economist LC76]

Finish line close.
Patience wearing thin…

 

[Economist LC76]

A few thoughts on the speakers.

In Europe, the HZJ74 came from the factory with only two speakers in the dashboard — which, honestly, is a bit underwhelming. I didn’t want to install speakers in the doors, so I turned to the Japanese-market experience.
On the Japanese-market HZJ74 in higher ZX trim levels, Toyota added two more speakers in the rear doors. They were mounted in special factory pods. I decided — maybe a bit fanatically — that I wanted to find exactly those.

They’re not cheap. I had to restore them and source additional parts.

It’s also worth noting that both the front and rear speakers were Panasonic units from the Carrozzeria line.

You can look for alternatives, of course, but Japanese-market speakers have very specific dimensions, and that matters — there’s a real risk that speakers from other markets simply won’t fit into these pods.

On Japanese auctions, everything can still be found quite easily. But for some reason, speakers are almost always shipped separately from other parts, and their shipping cost is noticeably higher.

Now I have a clean set

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Impressed by the way you did surmount all these bureaucratic and other obstacles/difficulties on the other side of the globe!
Awesome job so far, congrats mate!

 

[Economist LC76]

Even when a project is almost finished, unexpected problems always show up at the end.

The jerry can mount requires internal door reinforcement, similar to the factory reinforcement used for the spare wheel. The goal is to avoid unnecessary vibration.

Side steps. Originally, the mid-wheelbase 73/74 used the short side steps from the short-wheelbase 70/71. Visually, I want more balance — a proper, full-length step.

The floor mats need trimming, the BJ74 trank side panels require minor modifications, and the front bumper is once again missing a few parts.On top of that, a set of original Dunlop Grandtrek tires I bought in Germany arrived with one punctured tire — and the seller refuses to replace it.

This phase of the project requires the greatest amount of willpower

 

[joekatana]

So the BJ74 passenger side rear side panel should have a difference arch at the back , there are the pre 1990 right rear inner fenders and the post 1990 right rear inner fenders and they both have a complete different shape in the back . You might want to look in France or Spain for rear side panels from a LJII73 or a KZJ73 as you sometimes can still find these in very good condition.

For the rear mats I usually get take out mats from new 78 troopies and cut them to lenght , works perfect for a 73/74 .

I like your idea about the wheelwell covers from the 76 series , I am still hoarding a few oem 73 covers but might order me a set of those 76 also for my next build.

You are doing a amazing job sir

 

[Economist LC76]

So the BJ74 passenger side rear side panel should have a difference arch at the back , there are the pre 1990 right rear inner fenders and the post 1990 right rear inner fenders and they both have a complete different shape in the back .

Thank you for the explanation regarding the side panel.
I could not understand why the right-hand panel does not fit in the rear corner and has a smooth cut-out there.
Thanks for clarifying this

 

[Economist LC76]

@joekatana
Since we were already going deeper into interior panels, I accidentally came across photos of the cargo-area side panels for the Japanese-market HZJ70/71. They really do love their JDM.

 

[joekatana]

@joekatana
Since we were already going deeper into interior panels, I accidentally came across photos of the cargo-area side panels for the Japanese-market HZJ70/71. They really do love their JDM.
View attachment 4075024
View attachment 4075025
View attachment 4075026
View attachment 4075027View attachment 4075028

There rear seat is mounted at a different location so these might work or not in a Euro spec

 

[Economist LC76]

An interesting little challenge: mounting fender flares on the classic narrow-nose LC70 body.

It’s already clear that the flares themselves are expensive. On top of that, there’s a whole catalog of different mounting hardware, templates are required, and hours of work go into getting the fit just right.

But there’s another detail some people miss: what should the visible fastener for each flare actually look like?

The correct answer is — despite the screw hole — it should be a rivet with a painted cap.

I would never have guessed.

 

[Economist LC76]

A new challenge. One that sounded simple.
Installing original fog lights on a protruding ZX bumper — without ruining brand-new chrome.

Everything looks factory. Everything should fit. Except for one detail: there is no hole for the wires.
So you look at Middle Eastern Land Cruisers — the real Mecca of 70 Series trucks.

Fog lights never where they should be. And everything solved with a drill.
Holes. Chrome.

Some kind of endless labyrinth.

 

[Economist LC76]

A new step toward the goal.
I’ve solved the fog light dilemma.

We also did a test fit of the interior

and laid the soft top out to rest

 

[Economist LC76]

The final steps are always the smallest ones.
Parts take forever, customs is asleep…

We finished the cargo interior, adapting pre-1990 panels to a 1999 truck.

With the soft top on, it finally almost looks like a real vehicle.

 

[Economist LC76]

And here’s a photo with its sister — a combo 75/79 on full coil suspension, powered by a 1HDFTE with mechanical injection pump, permanent all-wheel drive, and 35-inch tires (not mine)