Friday night out with my PHH (1 Viewer)

[whaler]

So Ive been mostly enjoying my 80 since i purchased it in Aug 2017. Ive done basically the bare minimum in terms of maintenance, put on a lift, tires, rack, about to put on a bumper (will not go on frame, looks like ARB welded one tube way too small) but i digress.

figured it was as good as time as any to do the PHH. I replaced the valve cover, most heater hoses and did a rear bypass (my rear lines were like something from a swamp tree's roots) last weekend so I thought I was a master mechanic afterward, (am not at all).

I bought both a silicone and gates green stripe kit thinking one would be the backup, and after reading that the silicone will weep eventually, i went with the Green stripe.

First off, i researched this for a week non stop and probably read every thread related to the PHH.

Anyway, it appears the PHH was replaced at some point in the past and the hose actually looked pretty decent on the inside. I cleaned up the metal tube and chose to keep it; I do not like the idea of running a section of hose near that EGR pipe. Plus, toyota designed it this way for a reason, its not like they knew running a heater hose would be optimal and this metal pipe was the compromise.

Things I figured out (or more like agreed with previous statements on Mud):

1. tran dipstick unbolt. Check.
2. knock sensor unclip. I could not get a feeling i was NOT going to break the connector so i left it alone and was careful.
3. Dremel old clamps. Easy, quick.
4. Right angle needle nose. Pull off old clamps in 2 seconds after cutting.
5. Utility knife the old hose and right angle needle nose, yank it out.
5.5 Undo the wiring harness two bolts so its not rigid and can be moved when you do the next step.
6. Break the lower bracket on the PHH pipe, after undoing the top by the Heater valve entry hose. This took me the longest amount of time and was a pain in the butt.
7. Pull the hose out through the bottom after breaking the bottom bracket. Heat up some water and put the gates hose in it to soften. Clean the PHH pipe of rust and buildup. Attach pipe end and feed up through the wheel well entrance.
8. a tiny 8MM spanner for the breeze constant torque clamps. Couldn't get a socket going on them with the knock sensor there, Im sure you could if you removed it.
9. High five.

Tomorrow im going to replace the FHH (the little 3/8 hose to the left and up a little that runs to the throttle body. Will also replace Distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.

Anyway, here are the pictures. Have a good one.

 

[Duplex Dave]

Nice, how did you know I'm doing mine tomorrow? Thanks for the reminder on the right angle needle nose, I thought I had everything. Easy enough to pick up first thing in the morning right after I degrease the motor at the local car wash.
I thought I read everything about the procedure, but I don't recall the silicone weeping? I choose the silicone kit.

 

[whaler]

If you have long needle nose or even regular needles youll be fine, youll just have to get your hand farther up there.

Silicone is good too, I think the weeping thing only applies to longer sections so youll be good to go no worries. Ive got the silicone as a backup in case the green stripe fails! The silicone will be dumb easy to get on the pipes compared to the green stripe (very thick).

Best of luck tomorrow, itll go great.

 

[-Spike-]

Getting the tire and starter the fxxx out of the way makes the job even easier.

 

[beefjerky]

Just had to do mine after owning it for 17 years.... it had been done by the previous owner... thankfully they didn’t bolt the pipe back in lol....

 

[whaler]

Tire was removed, I figured that goes without saying. Removing the starter would have helped too but i dont think its necessary.

 

[mtn2roady]

A ton of write ups on the PHH but I found this one most helpful. Echo whaler here, the hardest part is breaking the bracket off the bolt midway up. I attempted to remove it without breaking it for about 45 min with no luck. From the outside my hose looked great at 174k but take a look at the inside. Almost didn’t do it by the looks of the hose. Don’t let a good looking hose fool you. I went with the silicone PHH kit.

 

[cruisersurf]

I realize some will be lost just not sure how much since the hose is so low. Do you loose all the coolant when the PHH is removed?

 

[MoJ]

Not all but quite a bit. It’s at a fairly low point in the system.

 

[bhsdriller]

Same thing I was going to ask, Do you drain from radiator first or just cut hose and let it spill out.

 

[jksinton]

Same thing I was going to ask, Do you drain from radiator first or just cut hose and let it spill out.

You could just let the coolant drain from the PHH or drain the engine block from the block plug. Draining from the engine block plug will allow most of the coolant to drain before you get to the PHH.

There's no need to drain the whole radiator if you are only doing the PHH. Besides, with the thermostat closed and in place, I don't think draining the radiator will allow the coolant to drain from the engine block.

I've got my whole system drained right now to replace the thermostat and do a coolant flush.

 

[ajax1]

Do the coolant bypass hoses 1,2,3 while your there at least the one next to phh that runs to your throttle body, I’d do the other two also

 

[cruisersurf]

Are they all underneath by the phh? I've done the majority of the top ones.