Frame Painting/Coating - POR15 or EASTOOD or BOTH (1 Viewer)

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Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust

That worked out great, I did that on my cj8 that has more of a boxed frame then the 40. After I had painted the frame I then used that wand and slid it in and out of every part I could. Put the truck on a plastic tarp and went to town. It was dripping out of the frame everywhere. I also used it on the body to spray inside every support channel that you could not paint inside. I will be doing the same to my fj40 frame. On my fj40 body I used it to spray rust converter inside the body support channels and then welded plates and closed all the body support channels.so they cannot fill up with mud and dirt again. I wish I would have thought of that on the jeep. Those open body support channels just allow mud, sand and salt to get into places you cannot wash out easily.

Chris, What is the consistency of the ANTI-RUST when it dries? Is it hard or what?
 
I've used both Eastwood rust encapsulator and POR 15 and liked both. I'm currently re-doing my springs with POR. For areas that are exposed to the sun I didn't like POR's top coat but for areas that aren't exposed I felt the POR is tougher and if I was going to take the tub off and do the whole frame that is what I would use. I think prep is important with both. As others have said, no need to buy POR's cleaner and metal etch, just wire wheel off loose rust (no need to be down to bare metal) and then wash with TSP and then spray with OSPHO, once dry you can brush on the POR and you'll find that it goes on really nice
 
That eastwood Heavy Duty Rust (wax oil ) that dries black also comes in a spray can. It is the best stuff for springs. It is self healing, so when road rocks etc hit it it does not chip and seals back up. Also it is flexible so the spring movement does not mess it up either.
 
FRAME

Thanks for the replies. I've got some good ideas from everybody. I've got to do one more "blasting session" and I'm gonna use some Eastwood Rust Converter on a couple of area for good measure and go from there.
 
FRAME

i've used both eastwood rust encapsulator and por 15 and liked both. I'm currently re-doing my springs with por. For areas that are exposed to the sun i didn't like por's top coat but for areas that aren't exposed i felt the por is tougher and if i was going to take the tub off and do the whole frame that is what i would use. I think prep is important with both. As others have said, no need to buy por's cleaner and metal etch, just wire wheel off loose rust (no need to be down to bare metal) and then wash with tsp and then spray with ospho, once dry you can brush on the por and you'll find that it goes on really nice

tsp and ospho ??
 
How did Toyota originally coat their frames for LC's? Are they powdercoated or just sprayed? I've seen people powdercoat their frames and they look gorgeous until you bash one with a rock, and then you're screwed. Touch up just isn't possible with powdercoat. But is powdercoat OEM? I've been confused by this.
 
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Sodablasted and then sanded down a little more manually. With the paint and clearcoat dirt shouldn't stick to it too easily.
IMG_20110227_165942.jpg
 
tsp and ospho ??

The TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) is used to replace the Marine Clean and is good for cleaning all grease off. The OSPHO is phosporic acid and will convert any remaining rust to an inert iron phosphate and etches the metal (replaces POR metal etch)
 
FRAME

The TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) is used to replace the Marine Clean and is good for cleaning all grease off. The OSPHO is phosporic acid and will convert any remaining rust to an inert iron phosphate and etches the metal (replaces POR metal etch)

Thanks for the clarification.
 
Painting inside frame

For those that used POR or anything brushed on. How did you paint inside the frame? I know a wand is a possibility but if I use POR15 how did you guys get it in there? I have heard of a toilet brush. Any other ideas?

Thanks
 
I tried using a paint gun with the POR and it is just too think. Evening thinning it out quite a bit didn't work.

Grinding the rust down, blowing the excess out and painting with a brush it the best way I found. I would definitely get gloves to do it again. It sticks to everything.

MRTDUD your going to get dirty...just crawl under there and start painting away. I use a buddies lift and am very careful not to touch the body but it worked and sticks very well. Do you still need the hardtop glass? I've got it.
7840POR154.jpg
 
FRAME

Oh, I don't mind the dirty part. I'm just curious as to what everybody has done. I don't have a lift but I DO have a skidsteer and a backhoe. I lifted the rolling frame up in the air on one end when I was blasting to gain better access. The painting will begin soon.
 
Shelfboy it's funny you say that. I considered using the good ole Rustoleum in the gallon can you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. I painted a trailer with it before and it seems to hold up quite well. Has anybody tried that?

I have done it twice. It worked well for me. I found Rustoleum needs time when using a brush to fully dry. I'm not talking to the touch I mean to set up and not chip. I use it and swear by it.
Just my $0.02

Did this on a trailer that I use a lot...winter and summer, and more than 10 years later, it still looks OK.
 
getting inside ftrame

I used a rust converter called Rust Doctor which I believe is
simular to Rust Bullet that I soaked a sponge with and pulled
through the frame with a string.
 
For inside the rails I took a brush about 1.5 inched with wood handle, cut off the wood handle right at where the metal part is that holds the brushes. Take the scrap handle and cut it at a 75 degree or so angle instead of the 90 degree. Then put a screw through the metal area into the handle angle you cut off. So you have a brush that is basically pointed sideways. Worked great but was a mess!
 
Frame Painting

I'm late to the party, but another vote for masterseries. It levels extremely well and looks sprayed on even with foam brush/roller application. cheaper than most, which is also nice.

Did you use the silver and their black top coat?
 
Did you use the silver and their black top coat?

No, I just used the silver. Prepped the body as best I could, rolled/brushed on two coats, and then went over that with a different brand paint. On the frame I used Rustoleum Professional Gloss Black and was very impressed. Cures hard after a few days and you can buy it anywhere.
 
Mastercoat Silver

Well I went with the Mastercoat Silver. I painted the frame today and I am very pleased with this stuff. It sprays well without thinning and levels out real nice. I didn't have time to take any pictures but I would definately recommend it. Now I need to decide on the top coat. I might go with Eastwood Extreme Chasis Black.
 

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