Frame Painting/Coating - POR15 or EASTOOD or BOTH (1 Viewer)

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Frame Painting/Coating - POR15 or EASTWOOD or BOTH

Well after selling my 74 FJ40 last October it didn't take long until I couldn't stand it and got another one (77 FJ40). This 77 has been sitting for quite a while but all in all not in too bad of shape however after learning from the past (my 74) I decided to do this one up right. Let me say I'm not calling it a frame off, I just have room in the shop and it's now all in pieces.

MY QUESTION - I have read a lot of threads about what guys "are planning on doing" when it comes to rustproofing, coating, and painting their frames, leafs, and differentials but I want to know from some experiences what is working out best. I have used a good bit of EASTWOOD stuff and I like the quality. No matter what else I use I am using some EASTWOOD RUST CONVERTER for sure. After that what has been used? Why did you use it? and How is it working out? In particular I want to hear about POR15, EASTWOOD Rust Encapsulator, Heavy Duty Anti Rust, and maybe EASTWOOD Extreme Chasis paint or SUMMIT Chasis paint.

This is not going to be a "show truck", just a good solid truck that will get the regular undercarriage pressure washing. (Georgia Red Clay).

I have done a good but of sandblasting on the frame and I'm going to do some more before coating and painting. Please give some input and pictures would also be great.

Thanks
 
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I sold POR15 many years ago. In general, it's a good product, you just REALLY have to follow the instructions. The number one failing point of that paint is poor prep. Well, that's true of every paint really. If you sandblast, clean with etching wash (can use your own acid instead of theirs if you want) and make sure ALL of the grease is gone, then you will have good results. If there is even the slightest hint of grease/oil, it won't bond very well.
 
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If you're going to use POR 15, follow the directions and don't use any eastwood products under it. If you're going to sandblast the frame or otherwise get it down to bare metal, skip the POR stuff and go for a quality epoxy primer and paint.
 
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I have used the POR several times, and follow the instructions to the T. I have been happy with the results; however I think I am going to change....

My plan next time is to spray some black epoxy primer like Matt does (read the 45 forum's "Iv'e got my hash pipe...) and then gloss over it.

SOOOOOO much less prep time and work. And I know that epoxy paint stands up to about anything.
 
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I used eastwood rust encapsulator and chassis black over it on my cj8. Overall happy with it. Had to touch up a few spots, did that with their Heavy Duty Anti Rust that dries to a glossy black. Very happy with that. It is type of wax oil mixture. My jeep sits about 3 blocks from the beach and is always covered in heavy salt spray and the kids drive it on the beach and leave it covered with salty sand. Frame has held up extremely well. I chose it over por15 since it is a lot less toxic and works well with less then 100% perfect prep. On the fj40 I am doing now I used Master Series Silver, it is suppose to hold up even better. I followed the directions to a T as the master series silver's directions say works great over marginally prepared surfaces. I am great at doing stuff marginally. I found this master series stuff from a post here on mud where someone was asking about it, and so far I am extremely impressed with it. I did the frame under side of body and gas tank, and some other parts. I think the plywood that has some spills of this stuff on it is bullet proof now. It is worth looking into in my opinion. It is used a lot in VW and Mustang circles.

Mastercoat Silver
 
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FRAME

Well i won't be down to bare metal everywhere. There are spots that I am but I've already been through 15 bags of play sand at this point and I'm still not satisfied. What I had through most of the frame is mainly surface "scale" ?? (for lack of a better term) and of course at the very rear area and very front it was a little more but still very solid. A lot of the frame still has some decent factory paint so I see no need to blast that off.
 
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i use plain old wrought iron fence post paint and am into my 3rd year without recoat and thats my winter ride .
 
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FRAME

Chris,
I read on another post you were talking about using the EASTWOOD undercoating wand to do the inside of the frame with the Anti-rust. Did you try that? If so how did that work out?

Thanks
 
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FRAME

Shelfboy it's funny you say that. I considered using the good ole Rustoleum in the gallon can you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. I painted a trailer with it before and it seems to hold up quite well. Has anybody tried that?
 
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LOL, although well worth the effort, epoxy primer should take MUCH more prep time than a POR-15 application.

I have used the POR several times, and follow the instructions to the T. I have been happy with the results; however I think I am going to change....

My plan next time is to spray some black epoxy primer like Matt does (read the 45 forum's "Iv'e got my hash pipe...) and then gloss over it.

SOOOOOO much less prep time and work. And I know that epoxy paint stands up to about anything.
 
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Chris,
I read on another post you were talking about using the EASTWOOD undercoating wand to do the inside of the frame with the Anti-rust. Did you try that? If so how did that work out?

Thanks
That worked out great, I did that on my cj8 that has more of a boxed frame then the 40. After I had painted the frame I then used that wand and slid it in and out of every part I could. Put the truck on a plastic tarp and went to town. It was dripping out of the frame everywhere. I also used it on the body to spray inside every support channel that you could not paint inside. I will be doing the same to my fj40 frame. On my fj40 body I used it to spray rust converter inside the body support channels and then welded plates and closed all the body support channels.so they cannot fill up with mud and dirt again. I wish I would have thought of that on the jeep. Those open body support channels just allow mud, sand and salt to get into places you cannot wash out easily.
 
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Bodean - I have tried rust bullet on some small stuff and liked it ok. Never used it on a large area.

Chris - That's a good idea on the frame supports. The way they are set up there is really no way to wash them out well. Especially the front ones however I am still al ittle apprehensive about closing them up. I guess if I put the Anti-Rust in there it wouldn't be an issue.

Anybody else got any thoughts on closing up the body support channels?
 
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Shelfboy it's funny you say that. I considered using the good ole Rustoleum in the gallon can you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. I painted a trailer with it before and it seems to hold up quite well. Has anybody tried that?
I have done it twice. It worked well for me. I found Rustoleum needs time when using a brush to fully dry. I'm not talking to the touch I mean to set up and not chip. I use it and swear by it.
Just my $0.02
 
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I just finished using POR15 on a badly rusted frame this weekend. I am going to pull the axles and get them sandblasted but wanted to see what a little grinding and adding POR15 would look like.

1) Grind off rusty flakey areas.
2) Use air hose to remove dust and flakes
3) Use a paint brush and paint on POR15
4) Results after a day of painting on POR15. Left rusty areas so I could see touch and feel the difference.

Like the product says, after a day this stuff is rock hard. I painted the shocks but I am going to replace them anyway. I wouldn't advise painting those.

Good Luck and I hope this helps.
7840POR152.jpg
7840POR154.jpg
 
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When I had mine down to the bare frame about 8 years ago I sandblasted the entire frame to bare metal, filled in any pitting on the outsides of the framerails with a skim coat of body filler, painted it with Eastwood rust encapsulator, then topcoated it with their chassis black. I don't drive it in the winter but it still looks as good as the day I painted it. The axles I painted with regular Dupont Centari enamel and they still look great too.
 
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huh?

LOL, although well worth the effort, epoxy primer should take MUCH more prep time than a POR-15 application.
Assuming you have bare metal pieces, fresh from sandblaster, for Epoxy, you can just blow off, clean with degreaser if you want (many painters do not if you have carefully handled with gloves)
Read how Matt does it... really nice work.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/440381-ive-got-my-hash-pipe-8.html



For POR, you can likely skip degreasing, but then you need to do acid prep, wash down with water, blow water off everything, let dry then paint.
 

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