Frame de rusting (1 Viewer)

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I sand blasted the frame which leaves the surface very 'rough' for good paint adhesion. Believe me, the Rust Bullet will stick to even very smooth surfaces like my glasses!

I blasted the C-Channels as good as possible to remove the rust, then made sure to apply the Rust Bullet to seal all water access from the channel. Metal won't rust without access to oxygen. The whole purpose of painting a surface is to block oxygen from reacting with the iron. If you do an good job of prep to remove existing iron oxide (rust) then seal the surface, the metal will stop rusting.

That's why it's critical to keep after the paint on a frame. If you see a nick fix it! Any oxygen that gets to the iron will start rusting. Once rust gets under the edge of the paint it will rust UNDER the paint layer for great distances before showing up. :eek:
 
Coolerman, describe your sandblasting setup.

What was your media, specs on the compressor, and if you had to blast it all over again, what would you do differntly? Did you use a dryer of some type?
 
I use a Harbor Freight $79.99 (On sale) pot blaster. It holds about 40 lbs of simple playground sand which is $2.39 a 40 lbs bag at Lowes.

My compressor is a Lowes Kobalt 17CFM twin cylinder 220 Volt with 80 gallon tank. I use a 50' 1/2" hose to connect it to the pot and the pot has a built in water separater.

I use 1/8" nozzles and run the pot at 130 PSI. The pot is a bit hard to get adjusted properly but once it's 'right' I can blast for about 20 minutes before stopping to sweep up the sand, screen it, and put it back in the pot. My entire frame was done with 2 50lb bags on sand.

For protection from the silica dust I wear a painters hood, a respirator with twin filters, and over that a full face shield. Long welding gloves. long pants and if cold a sweat shirt complete my blasting outfit.

The only thing I would do diffferent is move the frame and blasting equipment to the yard and away from the wifes flowers. She was not happy with the sand I covered her flowers with. :doh:
SandBlasting1.jpg
 
... beauty

Hi,

That's brilliant. I was looking at buying one of those portable sandblasters. I've got a smaller compressor so will have to use the smaller nozzle and therefore it will take me longer, but now you have confirmed they work... I won't be so nervy about parting with the readies to get one.
Cheers
Craig
 
Oil rigs ( jackets) are sandblastered, then primed with Dimet Grey (Zinc paint), then given a top coat. A 20 ltr drum of this paint weighs about about 45lb, Airless spray guns are used and any sandblastered area must be painted within hours of being sandblaster, painting is not permitted if the moisture content in the air is to high. Paint thickness is measured, if not to standard area must be sandblastered again and repainted. When standard is meet top coat is allowed.

Our family company did it for years, even met the famous Red Adare when in came out to put a oil well gas leak out in Bass Straight (Tasmain Sea), orderred 250,000 super balls (highly compressed rubber balls the size of golf balls) and was going to pump them done the shaft with mud ( mud, a type of concrete) to stop the leak. He change his mind to use the super balls so every kid in the area got a box full.

End of story, he stopped the leak and everyone made a lot of money and no he does not look like John Wayne.

Well back to your frame, sandblast it, spray it with Dimet Grey, fill the spaces with superballs so you float across rivers and you should get 50 yeras out of it the same as a oil rig.
 

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