Frame Boxing/Reinforcing Without Kit, Pics? (1 Viewer)

[HawkDriver]

Howdy,

Are there no photos or opinions on boxing in or reinforcing your frame with plates from scratch?

There are endless threads about the kits, and opinions on boxing the frame in general, but I know some of you have done this before the Ruff Stuff days.

If you’ve done this, have any photos, or have any opinions on the DIY approach specifically, it’d be awesome to hear.

Thanks.

My donor frame is a little thinner than I anticipated along the inside channel bottom seam. Considering my options. I’d prefer not to remove the entire inside channel on both frame rails, rivets and all, and would rather reinforce it just leaving those intact somehow.

It’s not going to be a crawler. But will see moderate flex I’m sure. I’d like it to last.

 

[cult45]

It actually don't look too bad?

 

[middlecalf]

Sub’d

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

Yeah, doesn't look bad at all. But...if I was going to do any reinforcement, I wouldn't box the frame but add channel to the outside. Typical of Toyota's prescibed method of frame repair noted in FSM's.

 

[White Stripe]

The rust on that frame is pushing the frame apart. You will have to seperate the frame to fix that. Not a big deal, why do u not want to seperate it? Aqualu makes new frames fyi

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The rust on that frame is pushing the frame apart. You will have to seperate the frame to fix that. Not a big deal, why do u not want to seperate it? Aqualu makes new frames fyi

That motor mount pad is bent up but I don't see any rust delamination in any of the pics. I've run WAY worse frames here in the North East with a good cleaning and some fresh paint. I'd run that as is and not worry one bit.

Nick

 

[Downey]

Ok, let's go back to the 1970's when some entity who scores vehicles rated the Army Jeep and Landcruiser as having a 14 year life expectancy, while they rated the Ford Bronco and Chevy Blazer as having a 4 year life expectancy. The difference in those vehicles was the old Jeeps and Landcruisers had a "hot riveted" frame (flexible) and the Ford and Chevy had a solid welded frame (not much flex). In other words the hot riveted frames allowed the frames to flex with the terrain rather than crack apart because of the terrain.
Then when we looked at desert racing trucks, their full caging made their frames non-flexible, consequently their frames began to crack apart after 3-4 races.
Sooooooo, I'd be incline to not box in a Landcruiser frame, let it float.

 

[middlecalf]

I’m liking this Jim. Can I let this float?

 

[Downey]

Nope, get it sandblasted and plated, I had no idea your frame was totally roached.

 

[cult45]

I’m liking this Jim. Can I let this float?
View attachment 1722690

Float down the river maybe.

 

[Splangy]

The rust on that frame is pushing the frame apart. You will have to seperate the frame to fix that. Not a big deal, why do u not want to seperate it? Aqualu makes new frames fyi

The frame doesn’t look rusty enough for the Corrosion to have pulled that body mount part of the frame up like that. I’m thinking there was some other force at work.

 

[middlecalf]

Nope, get it sandblasted and plated, I had no idea your frame was totally roached.

Actually the frame is ok for the most part (still inspecting), just that spot where the lower flange is bent, someone must have bounced it on a rock or something. The box channel however has some issues, but since it’s for stability not load carrying I think I can patch it after I’ve thoroughly removed all of the scale and treat the remaining surface rust. Your point about flex in these cruiser frames is important - if the box channel was meant to carry bending loads it would need to be thicker sheet metal (match the frame) and significantly more rivets (less rivet spacing) or a continuous weld seam to the <outside> frame would be needed to adequately transfer bending loads. As such the design of these frames with the riveted box channel that provides flange stability to the frame itself (lateral instability stability lol) is how Toyota achieves its infamous flex frame.

To the OPs original question and point, if anyone has done frame or box channel repair insitu please post up!

 

[HawkDriver]

Hey,

Awesome input from everyone. Really appreciate it. The flex considerations are far greater than I realized. I really like the points that Middlecalf made and it gives some confidence in the outer frame rail bearing most of the load.

That said, here are some better pics now that I’ve chipped a lot of rot away. Still a little left to chip out before it goes off for sandblasting.

Other than these lower seam areas it’s a really solid frame. And being quite familiar with the worst that a frame can get (hence the swap of this one), overall this thing is a major upgrade.

Still just not sure about reinforcing a few of the weakest areas, or just running it.

Let me know your thoughts please. Thanks gang!

 

[HawkDriver]

Pics

 

[HawkDriver]

Pics

 

[HawkDriver]

Aaaaaand the horror show...

The reason this poor 40 has sat in its resting place for the past few years.

 

[HawkDriver]

Yep.

Show me a frame that was worse off.

 

[White Stripe]

The first pick of the motor mount I think is not rust seperation I agree. But looking at the other pics, I would split the frame, have it all sandblasted, fix any damage, paint it with chassis paint and bolt it back together rather than rivet it. Then take a pointed bit and blast whats left out of the frame. When I did my frame it took about 30 seconds a rivet. You can take a hole saw to the crossmember to remove the welds to the outer channel. If you got a bare frame might as well get it all clean.

 

[jim land]

How is the rear braces. ?
@Awl_TEQ make some nice one

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The rest of the pics tell a different story than the first few. Now I agree with White Stripe: tear that frame down now and protect it. It's not the worst I've seen or driven for sure. But it's easier to fix it right now than after you put the rest of the Cruiser on top of it.

Nick