Found A Forty (1 Viewer)

[tgadd]

One last question, I need bushings for the leaf springs. Will any FJ40 bushings fit (like the OME ones) or does it depend on the springs? I tried to find some markings or label on the current leaf packs and couldn't find anything.

 

[NCFJ]

I can tell you that this is a brake proportioning valve

 

[Rice]

Wow. Nice score on the mechanical fan. You absolutely don't want to put a pusher fan in front of that. It would only serve to get in the way and impede air flow at highway speeds.

That's an HEI distributor with an aftermarket coil ... nice, but there is an issue. The previous owner took good care keeping the spark plug wires off the exhaust but didn't give a crap about their continued route to the distributor.... that is a strong enough ignition system for spark to go through those wires ... they should not touch anything metal and should not touch each other. It takes patience but those need to be rerouted and/or insulated.

I love quadrajet carbs ... when tuned right one of the best there is. But, there are many versions of Q-jet so if you decide to rebuild be sure to get the right kit. Those are not as easy to rebuild as Holley and edelbrock but you can still do it. There are lots of books and YouTube videos. No biggie.

The only thing I see that is a safety concern is the fuel line to the carb. One is we don't like to run rubber line unless it is really necessary, and if you do, keep the runs short and only use marine grade line (NAPA sells it). The other concern are those 3 clamps at the carb ... makes me believe they slid the hose onto a piece of hard line that is not barbed and is prone to leaking.

Overall from the pics that looks like a good conversion. The engine is pushed up front nice and tight leaving room for the automatic plus they swapped radiators to include one with a transmission cooling core.


Hope to get to see it soon.

 

[tgadd]

Thanks @NCFJ and @Rice.

 

[Rice]

Very welcome.

BTW ... the model number for your Qjet is here:

Also, if you get the chance see if you can find the block casting number. It is located on the top of the block, driver side BEHIND the head up close to the firewall.

And if you're really wanting to get crazy, when you pull the spark plug wires to reroute go ahead and pull off one of the valve covers so you can get the casting number for the heads.

 

[tgadd]

Carb - 17058204 2177 BHT
Block - 3970010
Head - 462624

And then there is this.... I'm guessing this is not good. Whatever that oil line leading the cover is, the rubber gasket was torn in half and laying on the valves, plus whatever that filter material was.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Pull that plastic and filter mesh garbage out of there.

Looks to be PCV because it connects to the carb. Filter is likely to prevent oil from being sucked into the carb.

I'd cap the line that goes to the carb and put a filter on the valve cover like the other side.

 

[tgadd]

Could that be the source of the vacuum leak? I'll run to Autozone today and see if they have a filter for the cover.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Possibly, but that wouldn't be my first guess. It is strange that PCV is connected to one cover and an atmosphere vent to the other. EDIT: apparently it's normal!

 

[tgadd]

It is strange that PCV is connected to one cover and an atmosphere vent to the other.

Why is that?

 

[Rice]

No, no. Open breather on one side and PCV on the other is common for (and is OEM on older) Fords and Chevies. The disguise often arises from the oil filler cap also serving as a open breather.

 

[tgadd]

No, no. Open breather on one side and PCV on the other is common for (and is OEM on older) Fords and Chevies. The disguise often arises from the oil filler cap also serving as a open breather.

So I need to get a replacement rubber gasket/filter for the broken one?

 

[tgadd]

Ordered replacement grommet for the PCV and rotors/pads for up front.

 

[Rice]

So I need to get a replacement rubber gasket/filter for the broken one?

Yes, but ....
1. Suggest getting the right size grommet and breather to allow for indirect breathing. This "helps" keep oil from getting sprayed over the engine at high rpms.

2. That blue PCV is some fancy dude I haven't seen before. Not to say it's junk but I would suggest just getting a normal PCV and putting in place of it. Yes .... that is a possible vacuum leak, but just putting your finger over the open hose will tell you.

The filter medium that was under the valve cover .... that wasn't steel wool was it?

Also .... All the carb, block, and head numbers point to the same thing .... It's a run-of-the-mill smog motor.

3790010: The block has been used in every application from 1968 Z-28 up thru the 1970's, and was very common in truck motors. Generally considered solid with no faults, it could be a 2 bolt main or 4 bolt main, but most engine builders will tell you either is fine. The 1969 4-bolt main "010" is the block I used to build my 383.

462624: This is a less desirable head due to a thinner casting being combined with an exhaust (smog) crossover. That leads to cracking. Performance is "blah" compared to what a small block can be. That said, relax. If they crack you can buy a NEW set of complete bolt on HP heads from Summit for $340 each and pick up a quick 40 Horses in the process.

EDIT: Match the new heads to a carefully selected cam and you can turn that 40 horses into 80.

17058204: Carb is a 4V carb 1976-1978 that came on small blocks with automatics. While the Q-jet was modified to fit tons of applications they are (with small exceptions) the same. Here is build kit: Standard Motor Carburetor Rebuild Kits 1517

 

[tgadd]

Forgot to mention - opened the rear bench storage compartment to find the following:

1. Ramsey winch controller - winch doesn't work...
2. extra set of Warn locking hubs - is this a sign that they break easy?
3. wire with alligator clips on one end and rectangle connecter on other (looks like what the winch is hardwired with, so I might connect directly to battery to test winch)

 

[izzyandsue]

1. Good name winch, should be rebuildable I think
2. Not typically, unless they lock them drive around pavement or hard surfaces
3. Thats how we hotwire cars in the old hood

 

[roadstr6]

I've never rebuilt a Q-jet but I took one to a buddy of mine once to rebuild and he gave it back to me saying that my particular carb couldn't be properly rebuilt because the shaft bushings had worn out (ovaled) which would cause a vacuum leak. He suggested that I get a new one rather than try to remove the butterflies and replace the bushings. I bought a Holley instead and I liked the Holley a lot. It was for a '69 El Camino, so it wasn't an offroad vehicle. I hear Q-Jets are better in off-camber situations.

 

[mtweller]

Warn lockouts break easily. I have broken 2 or 3 over the years. Aisin, with chromo gears for the win.

 

[Rice]

Dave is correct ... a qjet is hands down the best carb for off-road. The bowl for the carb is centralized which minimizes the kind of sloshing that does in a Holley. It's also good for when you want a tiny throttle response (e.g. On rocks) because of the spread bore.

BTW, we need more pics when you get the chance so we can see the rest of your rig.

 

[JohnVee]

Dave is correct ... a qjet is hands down the best carb for off-road. The bowl for the carb is centralized which minimizes the kind of sloshing that does in a Holley. It's also good for when you want a tiny throttle response (e.g. On rocks) because of the spread bore.

Me and my gimpy right ankle can attest to the Holley throttle response sensitivity, especially when climbing rocky slopes. I can't recall if I've taken the 40 out to URE with the Qjet for comparison. Definitely will in June.