forest service style gates (1 Viewer)

workingdog

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Sep 17, 2006
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Santa Rosa, CA
I'm not sure where to post this. I want to build a couple of forest service style gate that look more or less like this and I'm looking for plans.
P7050401.jpg


The key is that the hinge is just one big pipe slid over another. In looking at schedule 40 pipe sizes, it looks like there's still too much space and it would wobble, but maybe over that length - it wouldn't matter?

We are going to build this on site, easier than bringing in built gate.
 

PIP

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Oct 25, 2021
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234
Location
Oregon
That's a fancy USFS gate.

Normally what you do is you use a sleeve around 1/2" ID larger than your post. Machine the post cap about 20 thou smaller than the sleeve ID. Bore a 5/8"ish hole in the center of the top cap. Weld a 3/4" ball bearing centered on top of that hole. Machine a lower sleeve for a slip fit on the post and 20 thou under the sleeve ID about 2-4" long. Lightly weld that sleeve to the post where the bottom of the sleeve will ride. Drill/tap for a few zerks.

If you make the lower sleeve bushing in a way it welds to the sleeve instead you can weld it in the field and nobody can ever take it apart.

If you do a long tube inside a tube without a relief in the center it doesn't work well. It binds up easy or it needs a ton of slop to work. Using two short contact areas at the top and bottom reduces the friction and allows the post to bend inside the sleeve without binding up the gate. A fab shop in my town made a big gate without relieving the center. It was too hard to turn so they brought the sleeve to me and I relief bored the middle out leaving a few inches contact at the top and bottom. Then it worked well.

The ball bearing carries the weight of the gate and it's hard. Dissimilar steels, one hard, make a decent bearing. If you use mild steel on mild steel it's likely to gall under the vertical weight of the gate.
 
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