Fording Depth? (1 Viewer)

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With all the rain and flooding that we have been getting in the north east, I was wondering what is the maximum depth that a stock cruiser can ford before there is damage done, either to the engine, or getting water sucked down the diff breathers?-John
 
The air intake is inside the RH fender. I would not go above the top of the wheel arch. At that depth, stock breathers are under water or at least very close.
 
I've heard you should change axle fluid ASAP every time they go under water, regardless of diff breathers. Sounds like cheap insurance. I'm keeping my wife out of the big puddles at the mall.
 
not my picture, stolen from somewhere
 
John,

Maximum stock fording depth is 27.5"

This information came from another source and I believe it to be reliable. Entering water is hazardous to your Cruiser. If you routinely need to ford water to get to a cabin or something then you need to do a lot of prep work beginning with diff breather extension. I can post a list of recommended mods that will increase this to 40" or so.

-B-
 
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-B-, I am curious to know what it takes to be able to get the cruiser (80 series) to really go at it. 40" sounds like a good amount. Do you have to water proof electronics and other stuff? What kind of mods are on your list?

-Bryan
 
I'd like to see that list too :G
 
The list is likely to involve a roll of industrial grade saran wrap to coat everything in.  

Waterproof, and scratchproof at the same time.  :D

Edit: I usually only spell check on big words. Good thing i'm going to summer school.
 
Rogue,

Spell check? :G
 
You caught me. :(
 
OK here goes...

First, credit for this post goes to a guy by the name of Pieter. He died suddenly about a year ago so he is driving Cruisers in heaven now.

==============================================

Tips in fording water:

Both my cruisers have a fording depth spec of 70 cm or 27.5". I have never measured it, but I think it's the level where the axle and transmission breathers end.

I've driven through much deeper water (coming over the hood) and with the proper precautions and modifications I think you can easily prepare it for something like 40" fording depth

1. extension of breather lines. Purpose: prevent water entering the driveline and mixing with oil. To my knowledge, the following items have breather hoses:
front and rear axle, transmission, transfer case, diff lock actuators front and rear, winch. You would replace the attached hoses by longer ones and run those to a high location in the engine bay or, like I've done on the 74, drill holes in the air filter housing, fit with nipples and connect the hoses there.

2. move the air intake higher by adding a snorkel. Purpose: prevent water being sucked in the engine and damaging or destroying it.

3. after a water crossing, lubricate driveline and steering. Purpose: minimise water ingress and deterioration of grease. Keep a grease gun with the right grease (NLGI.2) handy so it is not put off. Use grease with the best water repellant properties (typically with Molybdeen-disulfide doping).

4. If you cross water regularly, you probably want to repack the wheel bearings more often (half the interval, and check if grease shows water contamination).

5. if you have a petrol engine, waterproof the ignition components. Seal as much as possible or, minimum spray WD40 or similar on the electrics that will see water (immersion or splashed).

6. Check sealing of lights. Water ingress quickly corrodes reflectors. I have all my lights sealed with silicone. Have not seen a problem with pressure differences (opinions vary). Most Toyota lights have a vent tube that points downward. Add a short hose to extend it further.

7. Check the fuel filler cap for tightness and that the pressure relief valve works.

I may have forgotten a few details, but this will prevent the more serious problems.

Then there are a few driving tips:
  • Switch off headlights and wait a couple of minutes with the engine idling before entering the water so hot items can cool down a bit.
  • Walk the crossing so you know / feel what is under the water (rocks, holes, bottom consistency).
  • Switch the heating / AC to off and the selector to recirculate to prevent the fan sucking in water.
  • Don't enter and exit the water always at the same location. A hole will develop.
  • Put up markers to indicate your best line to follow
Cheers, Pieter
HDJ100, HZJ74

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-B-
 
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#5 in the above list can be a major project. I would like to see a list and pictures of the connectors, fuse boxes, and components that need waterproofing. Anybody done this?

-B-
 
This is all too much for me. :ugh:

I'll just stay in the desert.
 
Hey Up, did you ever decide on new tires?  What did you end up with, and how's the performance of the 3FE?

-H-

I went with the 33x12.50 BFG Mud Terrain KM's. Yeah, I know I chickened out! I'm putting them on Thursday and planning on doing a little wheeling. Can't wait. I'll keep you posted as far as the performance goes, I too am curious of what those 12.50's will be like on the highway.

B, I haven't done any of those physical mods, but have used WD40 to spray down the distributor and around the spark plugs on occasion just to be safe. I haven't had a problem yet, my 60, well that was another story! :(
 
I went with the 33x12.50 BFG Mud Terrain KM's.  Yeah, I know I chickened out!  I'm putting them on Thursday and planning on doing a little wheeling.  Can't wait.

I'll wheel with ya maybe, although my schedule is funky. Lot's o mud around with all this rain. Give me a call anytime on my cell 362-1413. I extended my diff breathers just a few weeks ago and I'm due for a diff oil change anyway...
 

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