For those who have replace the stock roof rails… (2 Viewers)
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I installed my dissent roof rack a few weeks ago. I used a total of 4ml of RTV (for all of the holes combined) around the outside of the holes and on the bolt threads. I also used butyl tape on each of the "feet" for the new rack.
I used new gaskets and bolts/washers from Toyota.
I installed a prinsu rack and used permatex number 2 sealant on the bolts with zero leaks. I live in Florida where it rains all the time. A leak is the last thing I want.
Prinsu 200 Series Rack INSTALLED
I was able to get mine on yesterday without any issues. I'm pretty impressed with the rack, once everything is together it's very solid. I took it for a short drive only up to about 60 MPH and the wind noise is very minimal even with the sunroof open. I am running the fairing at the lowest...
forum.ih8mud.com
Post #39 by @Taco2Cruiser
Orange Hat
SILVER Star
I have a Gamiviti rack and it was recommended to use DAP Dynaflex Ultra...no leaks and super easy to use!
I used 3M Clear Super Silicone Seal after doing a bunch of research. It is "excellent for general purpose bonding and sealing, as well as formed-in-place gasketing applications". Read more to see why it is perfect for this application. You can find 3oz tubes if you look around.
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xeuxaz
SILVER Star
yes, a low yield thread locker on the bolt threads, and Ultra black on the surrounding areas..
No issues.
Ultra-black comes in a easy dispense canister
RTV, tends to be scrapped off threads, so it's not a great choice for the actual bolts... works great for the area surrounding them and is pretty easy to clean off.
No issues.
Ultra-black comes in a easy dispense canister
RTV, tends to be scrapped off threads, so it's not a great choice for the actual bolts... works great for the area surrounding them and is pretty easy to clean off.
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Might be late too late on this one but I would not recommend that. Locitite is literally the root cause of any/all "nuts fell into the roof" stories that you hear about. Specifically one bolt gets removed, then the other gets twisted, and the path of least resistance is the whole nut carrier thing popping free and spinning, rather than the bolt coming loose. the way to avoid the issue is alternate between the 2 bolts on each tower, back them out evenly then it's never been an issue. But your new bolts will be under load from a rubber sealing washer, surrounded by some type of sealant, they really shouldn't magically back out somehow.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for your advice, especially the video you posted on YouTube regarding removing the bolts. I did end up using the blue locktite on the new screws, and I guess this is down to paranoia from when I used to race bikes. Obviously track conditions are more demanding than the street but considering the process you outlined in the video worked so well I was ok with re-applying the threadlocker.
Anyways, thanks again for posting that vid, I wouldn't have attempted the swap if it wasn't for it.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
I just removed my OEM rack last weekend. Your video was very helpful. My OEM bolts were super tight and took a lot of torque to break loose and more than it seemed they should unscrewing them all of the way out. I alternated between the two until I got them removed. There was a large amount of blue Loctite on each OEM bolt (I assume from factory). The only issue I can see using Loctite is if you were to totally remove on bolt the break the other loose. Is this what you are talking about when you recommend not using Loctite?
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exactly.
On your website, you recommended PL Loctite Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant. Do you still suggest that product? Or should I stay away from loctite to reinstall factory roof rack?
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I have switched to Dynaflex, which is a little more readily available than the product made by Loctite. But both products are very similar in being a non-hardening polyurethane, window and door type sealant.
don't confuse that with the thread locking Loctite, which is what is being discussed here. totally different product. I don't use the thread locking stuff, just the window and door stuff. There's confusion created when folks call thread locker "Loctite" as if that's the only product they make...
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Sweet! That's exactly what I needed to know.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
same here
I used butyl sealant tape in and around the penetrations in the roof, so the bolts and feet of my aftermarket Rhino roofrack had a good and flexible seal. Butyl is an excellent longterm sealant which stays flexible, allowing for any movement or vibration of the roof rack.
You can also use the same when opening the water barrier plastic in the doors and re-apply afterwards, when I installed laminated driver and passenger front windows and applied dynamat. Factory uses the same butyl tape for that.
You can also use the same when opening the water barrier plastic in the doors and re-apply afterwards, when I installed laminated driver and passenger front windows and applied dynamat. Factory uses the same butyl tape for that.
