For those of you on 34's and up (3 Viewers)

Do you have a Body Mount Chop? What size tires are you running?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 11.6%
  • No

    Votes: 29 67.4%
  • No, but considering it

    Votes: 7 16.3%
  • 34"

    Votes: 27 62.8%
  • 35"

    Votes: 12 27.9%
  • 37"+

    Votes: 1 2.3%
  • Fix it with an alignment

    Votes: 1 2.3%

  • Total voters
    43

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Are you running 34's or larger tires? Do you rub on your body mount, if so how badly? Do you have (BMC) body mount chop or do you plan to get one?

I touch on my passenger side when there are passengers in the truck and turning when in reverse. I have considered having my alignment guy push the axles ever so slightly forward to alleviate it but a BMC would make short work of it as well and would allow for more room should I ever move up to 35's. I am just not sure it's something I want to do if there's a less permanent solution.
 
BFG AT KO2 34" on 17" Evo Corse Dakar rims (ET40). Some trimming of plastic bits but no body mount chop.
 
35" (34.75" book, 34+ weighted) LX570. No BMC. I did buy some SDHQ block off plates and will someday get around to the BMC, but I have no rubbing and more than a finger width at this time. Previously ran even larger 275/80r18 (35.3" book, 34.5+ weighted)

Both at +35 offset
 
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Tight but not touching at 25mm. Will do it if go up to a full 12.50 tire.

IMG_0737.jpeg
 
BFG AT KO2 34" on 17" ICON Six Speeds (25mm offset). No rub on body mount but I was hitting the rocker panel plastic. Fixed with alignment. I do hit the KDSS link now but just barley. I am going to have to fix that though as it is starting to bug me. I also have an occasional rub on the passenger side when turning right into a dip/downhill. I can't figure out where it is hitting.
 
toyo MT 35x12.5x17 with +25MM offset 17x8.5 wheels. no body mount chop. running about 3.2-3.5 degrees caster
 
BFG AT KO2 34" on 17" ICON Six Speeds (25mm offset). No rub on body mount but I was hitting the rocker panel plastic. Fixed with alignment. I do hit the KDSS link now but just barley. I am going to have to fix that though as it is starting to bug me. I also have an occasional rub on the passenger side when turning right into a dip/downhill. I can't figure out where it is hitting.

Hey, remind me the tire size specs?
Deliberating between 285/75 and 34x10.5 for the next set.
 
35" (34.75" book, 34+ weighted) LX570. No BMC. I did buy some SDHQ block off plates and will someday get around to the BMC, but I have no rubbing and more than a finger width at this time. Previously ran even larger 275/80r18 (35.3" book, 34.5+ weighted)

Both at +35 offset

Thats a win for skinny’s id say.
 
34" x 11.5" , no chop, 3/4" spacer, OEM wheels.
 
35-12.50-17 17x9 0 offset.

No BMC, plastic trimmed
Stock control arms.
Alignment in OE spec

Mine does rub the BM, not hard. At least in day to day driving. No KDSS rubbing. If it got wheeled hard it would need chopped, which I do plan to chop it when time allows.

A8802377-ED88-4D0B-B022-4505E56FE943.jpeg


0C04AD59-C060-4808-9A8F-787BCE03214E.jpeg
 
35-12.50-17 17x9 0 offset.

No BMC, plastic trimmed
Stock control arms.
Alignment in OE spec

Mine does rub the BM, not hard. At least in day to day driving. No KDSS rubbing. If it got wheeled hard it would need chopped, which I do plan to chop it when time allows.

View attachment 3278249

View attachment 3278250

Seems we have the same issue and it's likely because we are the only ones running 0mm offset wheels that have responded so far. One positive about them is I don't touch the KDSS which seems to be a common issue with those running a positive offset. My alignment is neutral and within factory spec and I'd like to keep it there so I will likely go the way of a BMC to solve this as it'll likely be an issue when off-road and loaded down with people and gear.
 
Seems we have the same issue and it's likely because we are the only ones running 0mm offset wheels that have responded so far. One positive about them is I don't touch the KDSS which seems to be a common issue with those running a positive offset. My alignment is neutral and within factory spec and I'd like to keep it there so I will likely go the way of a BMC to solve this as it'll likely be an issue when off-road and loaded down with people and gear.

I will 100% choose BMC over sacrificing alignment. Mine drives phenomenal. Hands down the most comfortable suv I’ve driven on 35s. In fact I think mine drives better on 35-12.5 over 285/70 Planted in the corners, stable towing. Power for days.
 
35x12.5 on +35 effective offset. Body mount chopped.

I'm with @clrussell , do the BMC. It's easy and straightforward. Doesn't even require purchase of block off plates if cut right, and the stock metal folds right over with less welds needed. Instructions below. Then drive to a friends house or your neighborhood welder and it's a 10 minute job to stich it up.

Notes:
- UCAs increase caster by pulling the centerline of the wheel back towards the BM, the opposite of making clearance against it. Only to undo that caster by using the LCA to then pull the tire forward. Might be better to not use a caster corrected UCA, and correct caster as much as possible with stock LCA adjusters that pull the centerline of the wheels forward. Though more lift requires more adjustment so another reason to keep suspension lift moderate, and work in conjunction with larger tires.
- The 200-series doesn't need a lot of caster. Low 3s is stable with good geometry elsewhere
- If it rubs on the BMC at all under any condition, you really need to do the BMC. There's danger under emergency braking that it will cause the tire to push into the BM, locking up the tire mechanically and losing control possibly into a rollover. No upgrade is worth that danger.
- Narrow width tires can potentially get away without BMC

Body Mount

Clearance here is tight enough that it needs to be addressed. About a fingers width clearance at certain steering angles. There's a danger that if this isn't addressed, in situations such as heavy braking during accident avoidance, that the tire could contact, bind, and brake due to contact against the mount. Braking causing more tire pressure against mount potentially locking up the tire and loss of control.

Previously, many on these boards opt to use UCAs or alignment adjusters to move the wheels to create clearance. I don't believe in that strategy as my alignment priority is for correct suspension geometry and handling, and everything else is secondary. So chop goes the body mount.

Not quite a full chop. But strategic cuts to bend and reshape the mount with the original metal in place. 4.5" thin kerf on angle grinder and 3lb hammer does wonders here. Cut in multiple passes so as not to overheat the mount and potentially melt the rubber body mounts. Pictures will show the process better. I'm done cutting and shaping and will bust out the welder later this week.

View attachment 2448499

View attachment 2448501

View attachment 2448502
 
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Are you running 34's or larger tires? Do you rub on your body mount, if so how badly? Do you have (BMC) body mount chop or do you plan to get one?

I touch on my passenger side when there are passengers in the truck and turning when in reverse. I have considered having my alignment guy push the axles ever so slightly forward to alleviate it but a BMC would make short work of it as well and would allow for more room should I ever move up to 35's. I am just not sure it's something I want to do if there's a less permanent solution.
YOU need a BMC with 0 offsets and 34+ tires. It's that simple. If people tell you otherwise they don't wheel there trucks
 
BMC plates ordered, looks like I'll be getting this done and avoiding messing with my alignment which I like. Thanks for all of the replies and votes fellas.
 
Sitting on 34’s right now with BMC. Wheels are 0 offset. It did rub on the body mount at full turn but not bad. I had to really mold and trim the front fender liner to have it not rub. However, my front fender liner is almost non existent now lol. I have room after the BMC so I’ll be moving up to 35x12.5r17 when this set is gone.

F2D234B5-2A96-4D32-A6B8-5DD1713FE3EC.jpeg
 

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