Font Axle Rebuild - Final Step - Axle Snap Ring Space Issue (2 Viewers)

[csd1982]

I'm putting my front axle back together after doing new gears and an ARB.

I put the two spindle hub nuts back on. I followed the steps to make sure the pre-load was correct on the spindle bearing, 8-12 pounds, to turn the wheel. However I don't really have enough room for my dam snap ring to go on the end of the axle. If I take the hub assembly off and just put on the manual lockouts there is plenty of room for the snap ring to go on and the snap ring will easily move around in the groove. But when I put the wheel hub on and the manual lockouts I barley can get the manual lockouts to seat far enough back for the snap ring groove.

I put the snap ring on and I used a brass punch to tap the snap ring back into the groove. The snap ring is now in the groove but its super tight (snap ring wont turn in the groove) and the pre-load on the wheel wont even register on my fish scale. I can still turn the wheel with my hand but not using 8-12 pounds on my fish scale. Its tight.

I have the same problem on the other side of my axel as well. I even ended up taking the spindles back off the axle to pull the axle out farther. But when I put the spindle back on and torqued down the spindle bolts the axle gets moved back a bit into the axle housing.

See the pictures, the red arrow shows that the manual hub does not seat flush against the start of the axle groove. You can see the lip/over hang.

Should the bearing pre-load go way up once the snap ring is on or should it stay at 8-12 pounds?

If the pre-load should stay at 8-12 pounds then does anyone have any idea why I'm running out of room for my snap ring only when the hub is on(hub with rotor) spindle?

I'm pretty sure my race is seated all the way in the hub as I did not replace it. I had the axle rebuilt about 2 years ago by a professional so this time I did no replace any bearings or anything.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Can you grab the grease zerk and pull the axle out at all?

Nick

 

[pb4ugo]

Why is there a grease fitting on the end of your birfield? What yr is your axle? It looks like you are running short birfields with long body hubs, or something like that. It looks like the grease fitting is there to hold the washer in place. If thats the case then the snap ring is not used and the washer takes its place.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

I've not seen a zerk used there before but like said above, grab it with some pliers and pull the axle out. Should shift enough to expose that groove so the snap ring can drop in.

 

[jim land]

My rcv chromo birf have zerk like this

 

[jim land]

Maybe the brass brushing inside the spindle is not fully seated and it push on the axle

 

[Redgrrr]

Messy job to take it back apart but I sure would.

Do you have a dust shield eliminator ring and a dust shield installed? Some rebuild kits come with those.
Or the brass bushing as stated above?

 

[csd1982]

I have RVC shafts that is why you see the zerk

I bought a screw to replace the zerk and I’ll try to pull on it

 

[csd1982]

Maybe the brass brushing inside the spindle is not fully seated and it push on the axle

I’ll have to check this

 

[csd1982]

So the bushing is fully seated in the back of the spindle. I have no idea why the hell I cannot get the dam axle shafts snap ring groove to protrude far enough out on either side. They both are at the same distance out.

I'm thinking I will just take this to the guy that did my cut and turn as he must have put them together correctly.

So my question is, can I drive my rig with no c-clips on the front axle shaft as long as I don't lock my hubs? I assume so as the wheels should just turn on the spindle right?

 

[csd1982]

.

 

[Jonny01]

Don't now the answer to your question about driving but I recently did this axle shaft swap to the RCV ones on my 79 and I took the zerk out and replaced with a bolt and washer, (like it looks like you did) and then took a pry bar and put the bottom of it behind the washer and top against the hub (with a rag to protect) for leverage and that did the trick to get the axle shaft out enough to put on the snap ring. I had no luck just pulling on the bolt.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think you need to identify what parts you have. In some cases you use a snap ring and in other cases you use a washer. I think it depends on the lockouts you are using.

Lock out 101 (FAQ)

First the washer you asked about Alan: This is the washer that Warn supplies with their lock outs to work with 01/79 and later, shorter outer fing birfs.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[reddingcruiser]

IIRC, the Warn Premium locking hubs DO NOT use the snap ring. They use a small, round plate that bolts on using the bolt hole in the end of the birf.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

IIRC, the Warn Premium locking hubs DO NOT use the snap ring. They use a small, round plate that bolts on using the bolt hole in the end of the birf.

I put a '76 front axle on my '66 and did a full rebuild. I have the Warn premium hubs and have the snap ring in mine. And yes, it was a pita to get back in.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Like these. My buddy has them on the front of his 40 with an FJ60 disk brake conversion and does not have a snap ring, however, the clutch comes almost all the way to the end of the birf.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

There are 2 different birfield lengths - the early disc brake axles got a longer birfield than the later FJ60 axles. That is why both posts above this one are correct.

I think Post #12 is the right answer here for the OP. I have had to do exactly that to get the birfields pulled far enough out to get the snap rings back on.

Nick

 

[csd1982]

I have the black Aisin Hubs. A fj62 extend axle on the passenger side, both sides are a hair short be the Ana amount. I have custom RCV shafts that are the correct length. I read the fj40 snap ring is thinner so maybe that is what was used before . I just grabbed fj60 snap rings I had since I could not find the snap rings I took off. I’m going to try with FJ40 pre disk snap ring. Will report back. If that won’t work I’ll try the pry bar.

 

[csd1982]

There are 2 different birfield lengths - the early disc brake axles got a longer birfield than the later FJ60 axles. That is why both posts above this one are correct.

I think Post #12 is the right answer here for the OP. I have had to do exactly that to get the birfields pulled far enough out to get the snap rings back on.

Nick

But once you put the snap rings on the birfield will want to go back into the housing. The snap ring will not allow it but there will be more pressure on the wheel bearings. That will make the pre-load go way up. Did you not have that problem? I was able to get the Fj60 on the birfield but it made the pre-load off the fish scale range.

 

[Jonny01]

Mine did not act that way. Once I used the "lever" to move the axle shaft out a bit it stayed out and did not snap back in prior to getting the snap rig on, or after. I just was unable to get enough purchase to pull it out. I would agree that if the axle shaft want to move back in it would not be good.