Fog light wiring (4 Viewers)

John Staton

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Ok...first pic is of the harness/switch that came with my fog lights. I hooked it up according to the directions and they work fine. I was warned that if hooked up direct to the battery that the light would glow continuously, which it does. I actually unhook this lead/switch and throw it in the glove box unless I am out hunting. Plan was to buy a switch that would snap into my blank without having to do anything special. I have a one button switch now from an old 60....

Pic 1: shows the harness I got with the fog lights and the directions of how it is hooked up now. According to the way the switch is hooked up now the blue wire is going to the light, the white wire is going to the battery and the black wire is the ground.

Pic 2: this is a pic of the switch I want to use. It has a white wire with a black stripe, a solid blue wire and a wire that is blue with a red stripe. According to another post:
1) Blue with Red stripe is 'constant hot' into the switch.
2) Soild Blue is switched power to the device you are turning on when you push in the switch. In my case this was power to the light relay.
3) White with Black stripe: connected a 3rd wire here and ran it over to a good ground.

So matching that up with the directions from my wire harness I am looking at marrying them the following way

FJ60 switch / Fog light
Blue and red / White wire- since that currently reads "to the battery"
solid blue / blue wire- since that reads "to the light"
white with black stripe / black wire- since it reads to ground

This is what makes sense to me. I am not great with electrical so any input would be appreciated. If this is correct, will the FJ60 switch that I am using glow all the time or just when engaged, which is what I ultimately want?
FJ60fogharness.JPG

FJ50Fogwires.JPG
 
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OSS

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Switch

Your fog lights are just lightbulbs so they’re easy to wire. The part that might be confusing is how they wired their switch.
Get rid of their switch.

Once their switch is taken out of the equation, if you connected one fog light wire to Batt+ and the other the Batt-, then the fog lights would light up.
Now you need to interrupt that connection with the FJ60 switch.

The FJ60 switch with built in indicator light requires a 12V+ source to be connected to its Blue Red wire to power the little bulb inside it. The switch also needs to be grounded via its Black wire so the indicator light has a complete path. When the switch is pushed in (on) the little indicator bulb has a path to ground

When the FJ60 switch is pressed to ON, the switch inside it connects the circuit from its internal indicator light to ground (via the black wire) AND connects its Blue wire to the Black wire, joining the Blue wire path to ground.

The FJ60 switch Blue and Black wires are the switched leads. They need to be spliced in BETWEEN ONE of the fog light wires. Either the black fog light wire going to ground or the white fog light wire going to batt+. It’s just going to break the connection of that wire.
 

John Staton

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Switch

Your fog lights are just lightbulbs so they’re easy to wire. The part that might be confusing is how they wired their switch.
Get rid of their switch.

Once their switch is taken out of the equation, if you connected one fog light wire to Batt+ and the other the Batt-, then the fog lights would light up.
Now you need to interrupt that connection with the FJ60 switch.

The FJ60 switch with built in indicator light requires a 12V+ source to be connected to its Blue Red wire to power the little bulb inside it. The switch also needs to be grounded via its Black wire so the indicator light has a complete path. When the switch is pushed in (on) the little indicator bulb has a path to ground

When the FJ60 switch is pressed to ON, the switch inside it connects the circuit from its internal indicator light to ground (via the black wire) AND connects its Blue wire to the Black wire, joining the Blue wire path to ground.

The FJ60 switch Blue and Black wires are the switched leads. They need to be spliced in BETWEEN ONE of the fog light wires. Either the black fog light wire going to ground or the white fog light wire going to batt+. It’s just going to break the connection of that wire.


Thanks for the thorough explanation. I understand the concept and how the switch simply interrupts the flow of electricity. To boil it down, if I just get the blue/red wire to the one going to the battery, the blue wire going to that lights and the white one going to the ground I should be good? and as far as the switch lighting up when I press it....that just takes power from when the light is in the on position right? so I dont have to do anything special to make sure it turns on and off....and the only reason I ask is because the switch I have on there now stays on all the time. Sorry...the answers to those questions probably lie in your first response but I am slow when it comes to a lot of this stuff......
 

OSS

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FJ60 Switch:
Red/Blue wire to Batt+
Blue wire to Fog light Black wire
FJ60 switch Black Wire to Body ground

(The switch now is now breaking the light's ground path)

Fog Lights:
White wire to Batt+ (with fuse)
 

Gretsch

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The wiring @OSS suggested should work to run the lights. There are more wires involved though if you want the defrost switch to illuminate when the headlights are on or want the little 'on' indicator light to come on when you press it. Maybe you know this and are just trying to get the lights to come on initially.
 

John Staton

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The wiring @OSS suggested should work to run the lights. There are more wires involved though if you want the defrost switch to illuminate when the headlights are on or want the little 'on' indicator light to come on when you press it. Maybe you know this and are just trying to get the lights to come on initially.

NO, I am pretty slow when it comes to wiring. I was hoping just to match up the right 3 wires and slide the spade adaptors onto the corresponding 3 blades on the 60 switch and be done with it. Still a bit confused. I just need to play with it I guess.
 

Gretsch

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So did the wiring suggested by @OSS not work to light the lights?

The switch I got for my light setup came with a plug with I think 5 leads if memory serves. The extra leads were for the backlight that comes on when you turn the headlights on to backlight the switch graphic. Those two wires are just a hot which is hot (needs a source that is hot when you turn the headlights on with the turn signal switch (I tapped into the cigarette lighter backlight for this)and a ground. Your switch only seems to have three wires coming off of it. Is that true?

Seems what @OSS suggested should work to run the lights. Who makes the lights you are wiring?
 

John Staton

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Location
The Woodlands, TX
So did the wiring suggested by @OSS not work to light the lights?

The switch I got for my light setup came with a plug with I think 5 leads if memory serves. The extra leads were for the backlight that comes on when you turn the headlights on to backlight the switch graphic. Those two wires are just a hot which is hot (needs a source that is hot when you turn the headlights on with the turn signal switch (I tapped into the cigarette lighter backlight for this)and a ground. Your switch only seems to have three wires coming off of it. Is that true?

Seems what @OSS suggested should work to run the lights. Who makes the lights you are wiring?

I have not tried it yet. The lights were not expensive and work great. They are green and bright enough to get around in the woods without headlights. The harness was not expensive either. I went through the firewall at the AC drain and there was enough that I can just unplug the lead and throw it in my glovebox until I hunt. Now that I have a switch that will fit I want to get it in permanently.
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Haness-
MICTUNING LED Light Bar Wiring Harness 40Amp Relay Laser Green On-Off Rocker Switch (Fog Lights)

Lights-
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