Flywheel is out! But is it knackered?

Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
7
Location
AB, Canada
My other threads and their replies have culminated in a transmission on the floor. The clutch and throw out bearing definitely need to be replaced. But, I need some advice from a higher power on the condition of my dual mass flywheel. I'll do my best to describe what I have found:
1. The inner portion (section bolted to the crankshaft) is tight against the outer ring with no wiggle room
2. The inner most bearing that touches the transmission input shaft is in immaculate condition.
3. The friction surface of the flywheel is crack free with no signs of warping or overheating
4. The outer flywheel ring (part the the clutch contacts with) can be spun by hand about 1 cm clockwise while the inner ring stays stationary
5. Snap ring holding back the center section is in great shape

My questions are: Do the above characteristics warrant replacing the DMF?
Is it within acceptable tolerances for the outer portion to spin freely of the inner portion by 1cm clockwise?
Now that the flywheel is out, are there any particular things I should look for or do to determine whether it needs to be replaced or not?

*This is not my flywheel*
flywheel.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 4, 2010
Messages
7
Location
AB, Canada
Perhaps an explanation of events leading up to and directly following the first sign of trouble may help pinpoint the problem.


A few weeks ago I needed to do some 4LO work out in the mud hole on the farm. Needed some higher than normal revving to prevent stalling from stop to go. No signs of damage and the truck drove fine up until recently.
1. Two days ago, I had to do some fairly steep and long hill climbing to get out of a local fishing area. This was done on a stock organic clutch with 140,000kms in 2wd.
2. Following our escape, I noticed the truck had extremely poor acceleration on the highway. I would give it gas in any gear and it seemed to free rev. If I delicately eased into the accelerator then I could slowly pick up speed. No smell of burning clutch but, it was a windy day at highway speeds
3. The next day I noticed the same issue while on my way to the university. This time when I began climbing the river bottom hill the truck keep decelerating no matter what gear or how much accelerator I gave it. Barely made it to the top of the hill and noticed the smell of burning clutch. Pulled over and let it cool and then proceeded that last km or 2.
4. The truck still drives but, will not take any inclines.
5. From stop to start feels very abnormal. The truck will take off and feels like driving an auto through first gear. It's extremely smooth and you can't feel the clutch engaging through the pedal. There is no shuddering as indicated by heavily slipping clutch
6. I parked the truck on an incline while running in first gear. I then released the park brake and the truck continued to run but stayed stationary. This would lead me to believe that there is slipping.
If the flywheel was toast then I would assume the internal springs are broken allowing for the outer ring to rotate without resistance when the clutch is engaged. Although, in my case, there was still resistance and spring back when I rotated the flywheel by hand.
Are there any other symptoms I should be looking for that would separate a failing clutch from a damaged dual-mass flywheel?
 

yotahed

Diesel Head
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Messages
904
Location
Kelowna, B.C.
Check your pedal travel, check for oil dripping out between bell housing and engine, make sure clutch hydraulics are in good order and fully engaging/disengaging.
Then tear apart and replace if all are good.
Sorry man.
I have a landcruiser that the pedal adjuster worked loose and wasnt letting the clutch fully engage. Replaced a perfectly fine clutch when i didnt have to. Check the above first.
 

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