Float bowl sticking

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Feb 28, 2008
I'm pretty sure the float bowl in my carb is sticking. I need this thing to run for the next couple of months and really dont have the time to ship it off and and wait for it to be rebuilt nor do I want to spend the money on it as i'm trying to get ready for a engine swap.
I've rebuilt dirtbike carbs but never something that looks like this thing.

Is it to hard to take it apart and clean the crap out of the float bowl?

Is there a way to get carb cleaner shot right in there to flush it out?

I'm really stumped on how to get this thing to stop sticking the 60 runs great than all of a sudden starts stumbling and wont idle then a few miles later fine again. If I choke it part way it will run and idle pretty good during the stumbling periods. Is this a logical assumption?
I notice when the stumbling is occuring the fuel is a quarter inch higher in the sight glass when its running fine its lower... this is what led me to believe something is sticking. While it was running fine I ran some carb cleaner through the throttle body and after it started stumbling again. Thanks any advice is much appreciated.
I pulled the top plate off my carb with it installed a couple of times. One of the times was to adjust the float. There is a fitting on the front of the carb that goes directly into the bowl.
By the top plate you mean through the top you can get in there and take a plate off that allows you access the float?
The whole top of the carb is one piece and pulls off the carb body. You have to remove some of the linkage and unscrew all the bolts going around the top of the carb. Maybe someone can post a picture of the carb.
Does this help?
I can kinda see where it is divided is there a gasket on there I will have to replace if I pull it off? When you took it off do you remember it being to much of a pain? Is there anything thats going to fall out when I seperate it?
I meant a diagram from like a manual so you could see how it comes apart. But that is a good picture. I didn't replace the gasket since it was new and in good shape. It remember it being pretty straight forward once I loosen everything.
If you want to just try a flush with carb cleaner then I would disconnect the metal fuel pipe where it connects to the carburetor and pull it out of the way. At the bottom of the float bowl are two plugs that are used to access the main jets. Remove one or both of those plugs. Then you can spray carb cleaner into the top of the bowl at the fuel inlet, and it will drain out where the plugs are at the bottom.

Of course you want to do this with the engine cold, in a well ventilated area and with no open flames around (you will be spilling gasoline and carb cleaning over the intake and exhaust manifold. When finished and the plugs and fuel line reinstalled, either wash the area down with some light water spray, or wait for the combustibles to evaporate.

If you're going to disassemble the carb, I find it much easier to do it on a bench. The carb is held on with four bolts, there are mabye six vacuum lines to keep track of, one throttle return spring and the throttle linkage (one hair pin clip). To get the top off you have to remove eight or ten screws plus remove some linkages on the firewall and valve cover side of the carb. This is much easier to do with it on the bench.

Here's a thread about someone who pulled the top off the carb and unknowingly lost parts of the needle valve. There is also an exploded view of the carb.

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Thanks 2mbb for the link to the diagram. I saw those two bolts at the bottom of the carb and was going to ask about those but you took care of my question already. Running some cleaner through the throttle body it seems to have helped but i'm defiantly going to drain out the bowl and run some through there as well because my carb was defaintly a little dirty. After putting it through the throttle body I took it on a 30 mile trip down the highway and it still sputtered for a while then it gave me a gassy smell and ran great all the way to the place I want to offroad. I offroaded for at least an hour it only sputtered once for a couple of minutes then It drove fine all the way home. I think it helped becuase the sputtering was getting out of hand for a while there. A side note I think the carb is set a little lean as well so I'll adjust that slightly as well. I had it "tuned up" by a "land cruiser specialist" when I first bought it and he gave me the whole it will only pass emissions if its leaned out all the way and I put a different jet in it line. So I told him forget it and I just went through the vaccuum lines myself drove it for a week or two and it passed fine. I'm thinking its still slightly lean from his tuneup.
After further reading i'm realizing the only air fuel adjustment is for idle only, is this correct? So what was this mechanic talking about when he said he was going to lean out the carb? Could have he been referring to the idle mixture screw? If so that shouldn't affect me at cruising speeds correct?
The only screw adjustment for "leaning" is for the idle circuit. Their are various jets that are removable, but I've never seen any place to purchase new ones of different sizes. Although I do think that experts like Jim C and Mark A., may have access to a supply. I have two FJ60 carbs, one rebuilt by Jim C and they have different sized secondary main jets, I believe.

Another ajustment available is the float bowl level. If the gas level in the bowl is in the middle of the sight glass then you are OK there. If the level is too high, I suppose this could cause a rich condition, but I don't know how sensitive the mixture is to the bowl level.
I have unstuck a few by taking off the sight glass but you need to get a rebuild kit so when you take the top off you will have the gaskets and other tit bits

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