Flat towing/ removing driveshafts

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Degnol

Degnol

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I know this has been covered before, but how far and at what speed is it safe to tow a FJ 40 with a towbar?
What is the reason for removing the driveshafts, assuming TC locked in neutral along with the transmission and hubs locked out? I'd be towing with a 2500 Suburban. I've only had to tow it once, when I broke a set of brand new points and then I towed it about 15 miles at no more that 45 mph, with a half ton Yukon. Stopping was the only issue.
Ed Long ???
 
nocents

nocents

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A lot has to do with how much you know about the vehical you are towing. By flat towing you are basically running the vehical down the road. If you know the transfer case, transmission, driveshafts and anything else that turns are in road worthy condition then go for it. If you don't know exactly what you are towing then remove the driveshaft and the only thing turning are wheels and axels.

You won't hurt anything by towing in neutral hub disingaged
you just will have a bit added drag. I see FJ40 behind motor home occassionally that have been towed for 1000's of miles. Mostly your choice.....

nocents
 
Degnol

Degnol

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Hey, my reply was not responsive toyours, so no offense, just didn't want to go to the bottom of the pile. I'm talking about avoiding a big tow bill and bringing a broken LC back from collegeson's town, about 120 miles at 55-60 mph. Couldn't see the harm in towing it with the driveshafts still on. Hell, everything is working fine, but give it to an 19 year old and who knows?
Thanks for the reply...we were typing at the same time.
Ed ;)
 
CruisinGA

CruisinGA

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I regurly flat tow my 40 at 70-75 with a '96 Bronco that has a 351.
I have never disconnected drive-shafts, with the t-case in neutral and the front hubs disengaged the front driveshaft is essentially removed, and I've just never bothered to remove the rear. Too much of a pain.

One thing to be careful of-have you installed a lift, or longer shackles up front? If so, have you corrected your caster?
If you try to flat tow w/o caster you will run into slow-speed turning issues, and possibly high speed wander and shimmy issues.
 
Degnol

Degnol

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Mine has a "suspension correction" kit in it, and I' did not have any problems except for the stopping issues as I mentioned.
How's the weather in Georgia, Bailey? Very balmy here in Kansas City. Drove the '40 today with the bikini top still on it.
Groovy, baby.
Ed ;)
 
CruisinGA

CruisinGA

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I really wanted to take the top off today. :D
It was sunny and about 60 degrees. I was washing a cruiser in short sleeves,
almost sweating, ON JAN 1[sup]st[/sup].
Really weird. :)
 
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fsusteve

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Ed, used to tow mine with my 62 about 100 miles on the freeway. Did what Bailey said and the only issues I had was turning. 4" lift and 33's would cause it to want to go straight on occasion, but nothing too serious.
 
D

dinkleberry

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[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=9512;start=msg83347#msg83347 date=1073019296]
I really wanted to take the top off today. :D
It was sunny and about 60 degrees. I was washing a cruiser in short sleeves,
almost sweating, ON JAN 1[sup]st[/sup].
Really weird. :)
[/quote]

:flipoff2:
 
T
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Pulling the driveshaft is pretty simple. 4 bolts and maybe the zerk on the slip yoke. (As already stated, no need on the front since it's all disengaged anyway.)

I've always wondered though why so many people recommend it. I thought it had to do with running the driveshaft, transfer case, and tranny output shaft at highway speed (2500-3000 rpm) while the tranny input shaft sits at zero rpm. But I don't see right off what the damage would be.

I towed my son's '79 Toyty pickup home over Lolo pass 2 days ago. Just for giggles I pulled the driveshaft.
 
cruiser_guy

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My kid towed her FJ55 for about 1500 miles when she brought it home. She couldn't get the drive shafts off as recommended so left them on. I have not yet started in on the rear yet to see if any damage happened.
 
Mike S

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I flat tow my '47 CJ2A several thousnad miles each Fall. I installed the Warn FF rear axle kit, and Warn locking hubs. It tows with ALL the wheels unlocked, so it does not turn any drivetrain components. I can cruise at 70 with the CJ behind the Expedition, and never know it's back there.

If you are going to do much towing, this is the ticket.

Mike S
 
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aZ..fj-40

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:doh: DAGNOL, I'VE HEARD THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO TO A 40 WHILE FLAT TOWING, IS TO PUT THE T-CASE IN NEUTRAL. THE REASON IS THAT IN NEUTRAL YOU ARE ONLY SEPARATING THE TRANSMISSION FROM THE T-CASE, AND TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL, YOU MUST PUT IT IN 4WD FIRST. WITH IT IN NEUTRAL THE ONLY THING TURNING IN THE T-CASE IS THE OUTPUT SHAFT, AND THEIR BEARINGS ARE NOT GETTING LUBRICATION.
IF ANYONE KNOWS DIFFERENT, LET ME KNOW, EARL
'74 FJ-40, p.s.a/c, UNDER 70,000 MILES
 
Degnol

Degnol

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Good to know Earl. That's the kind of info I was looking for.
Degnol
Ed Long ;)
 
T
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[quote author=aZ..fj-40 link=board=1;threadid=9512;start=msg84044#msg84044 date=1073162135]
:doh: DAGNOL, I'VE HEARD THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO TO A 40 WHILE FLAT TOWING, IS TO PUT THE T-CASE IN NEUTRAL. THE REASON IS THAT IN NEUTRAL YOU ARE ONLY SEPARATING THE TRANSMISSION FROM THE T-CASE, AND TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL, YOU MUST PUT IT IN 4WD FIRST. WITH IT IN NEUTRAL THE ONLY THING TURNING IN THE T-CASE IS THE OUTPUT SHAFT, AND THEIR BEARINGS ARE NOT GETTING LUBRICATION.
IF ANYONE KNOWS DIFFERENT, LET ME KNOW, EARL
'74 FJ-40, p.s.a/c, UNDER 70,000 MILES
[/quote]

Thanks from me too, Earl. I think that answers my question as well. :cheers:
 
woody

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no offense Earl, but your information is wrong.

The t-case outputs on a FJ40 are both LOW and bathed in oil constantly. The BEST place for the t-case is in 2WD neutral....NOT 4WD neutral, tho that's the second choice for those who have not notched their t-case shift guide.

Most all other t-cases cannot be towed long distances because their centered output shaft is in the same plane as the tranny output...much higher than the front output and there is no oil pool that high to lubricate. D300, 205, etc cases all have this issue. Cruisers DO NOT.

I've done 14 hour tow-bar trips with the t-case in 2wd neutral, hubs unlocked, nothing else touched. Max the tire pressure on the cruiser. MAKE SURE it tracks well, caster in front is critical.

However, that said, I think it's important to drop the driveshaft. No reason to add wear to components for 4 bolts. (drop the rear shaft off the pinion, tie it up to something, leave it on the t-case - or just pull the slip....with everything in neutral, no problems. JUST REMEMBER to reinstall it before driving, or it bets noisy...ask me how I know...lol)
 
IDave

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Having had one end of a driveshaft drop off myself, I know that it can do more damage than just cause a little noise. You might be finding yourself a new driveline.]

Fully removing the rear driveshaft also gives you the option of immediately driving away your Cruiser (in 4WD: effectively Front wheel drive) should the emergent need arise.
 

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