Glad you found it.
This confirms that sometimes it's not the side you think it is because it's the other side not doing what you think it's doing.
FJ80 Post knuckle rebuild pull - Edit: problem found (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BlutoF15
- Start date
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This confirms that sometimes it's not the side you think it is because it's the other side not doing what you think it's doing.
- Thread starter
- #42
Exactly.
Hindsight 20/20 and all, seems really dumb at this point to not have keyed on the other side.
“Life is tough. It’s tougher if you’re stupid.”
Hindsight 20/20 and all, seems really dumb at this point to not have keyed on the other side.
“Life is tough. It’s tougher if you’re stupid.”
I'm about to move to NE Florida. Maybe we can commiserate together when it's time to do knuckles and birfs?
- Thread starter
- #44
I’m kinda NW but happy to pass lessons learned!
1 - spend 10x the amount of time addressing bearing preload details than is addressed in the normally used YouTube videos.
2 - the @cruiseroutfit kit is complete and awesome, along with the new birfs I bought; but order a spare pair of outer axle c clips. My old ones were totally shot
3 - the pdf cheat sheet for the axles available here is gold. Laminate one.
4 - if there’s a known and reputable cruiser shop local to you, check pricing. If reasonable, just pay them lol
1 - spend 10x the amount of time addressing bearing preload details than is addressed in the normally used YouTube videos.
2 - the @cruiseroutfit kit is complete and awesome, along with the new birfs I bought; but order a spare pair of outer axle c clips. My old ones were totally shot
3 - the pdf cheat sheet for the axles available here is gold. Laminate one.
4 - if there’s a known and reputable cruiser shop local to you, check pricing. If reasonable, just pay them lol
I just had mine done in Utah. They are $1200 by a very experienced shop. They use the cruiser outfitters kits.
I’m kinda NW but happy to pass lessons learned!
1 - spend 10x the amount of time addressing bearing preload details than is addressed in the normally used YouTube videos.
2 - the @cruiseroutfit kit is complete and awesome, along with the new birfs I bought; but order a spare pair of outer axle c clips. My old ones were totally shot
3 - the pdf cheat sheet for the axles available here is gold. Laminate one.
4 - if there’s a known and reputable cruiser shop local to you, check pricing. If reasonable, just pay them lol
Thanks guys!
- Thread starter
- #47
That’s it?! Oh how I dream of a local shop…
They can probably do them in 2/3 of the time me and you can!
- Thread starter
- #49
Easily. I might be faster next time, but at about 1,000 miles per year, there shouldn’t be a next time.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
The trail gear chromo bearing nut makes the job a little easier. I have had the tabs unbend also.
- Thread starter
- #51
Got a set in the spare parts bin. I’m personally just not a fan for a few reasons, so I went back to factory setup. I’m pretty certain my issue was just sloppy work. That’s the first side I did on my first ever job. (Poorly lol)
Edit: Now that I’m not at the end of full reassembly and staring down the other side as a full tear down and rebuild and in a time crunch for the shop bay clock running…I may give it another look. It’s a sound idea.
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- Thread starter
- #52
@cruiseroutfit to the rescue again. I couldn’t recover the threads on the spindle, so another one is on the way. A complete spindle with bushing makes me very happy. Somewhat poorer, but happy.
The job gets much easier each time you do it.
By doing it yourself you gain the knowledge of how everything work with the front axle.
To remove the cone washers loosen the nuts to the end of a stud but don’t remove them, the hit the side of the flange squarely with a brass hammer.
Some may disagree but that’s how I do it and it works perfectly.
Twice in the thread you side your Barfields were dry ?
You did Grease them before you install them and filled knuckle 2/3 with grease right ?
By doing it yourself you gain the knowledge of how everything work with the front axle.
To remove the cone washers loosen the nuts to the end of a stud but don’t remove them, the hit the side of the flange squarely with a brass hammer.
Some may disagree but that’s how I do it and it works perfectly.
Twice in the thread you side your Barfields were dry ?
You did Grease them before you install them and filled knuckle 2/3 with grease right ?
- Thread starter
- #54
Yeah I tried that for a solid 15-20 minutes. Seems like a solid technique, I just can’t get it to work. (And after a while I start really questioning what I’m doing to the threads on those studs.)
Yeah, if I said birfs I obviously misspoke and mean knuckles. There’s a hint of a film of grease now, so I’m hoping it was just due to lack of use to this point. Yep, greased and packed before install, 2/3 full housing.
You can't hurt the threads if your hitting the side of the flange. Hitting the end of the stud has not worked for me.
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It takes my son 30 minutes. Then he gives up. He's even madder when I walk up and hit them twice and they pop out.
You won't break anything with a light brass hammer (I use a Ø1.25" brass rod, and an 18 oz ball peen hammer, but same thing). Just hit it like you hate it.
