FJ80 Engine Advice

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I'm new to the forums, but have been reading (lurking) around for awhile. I need some advice on what to do about my Land Cruiser. I have a 97 LC with 182,000 miles. White with tan leather and in fair to good condition. It has the front and rear lockers. I have only owned this truck for a few months. When I bought it I had it checked out and it seemed solid.

On the way home the other day my LC started sputtering and felt like it was missing. I drove the rest of the way home (maybe 2 miles) and parked in my driveway. I left it running and checked under the hood. I couldn't see anything wrong and didn't hear any strange noises. I did notice a slight burning/oil smell when I first parked. I shut the truck off and went inside to call my mechanic. I already had an engine light on and checked the code which showed the O2 sensor so I figured I would have him look at it and replace the sensor at the same time. Went back out to drive it to his shop and when I turned the key all I got was a loud Ca-Clunk. The engine would not turn over. My mechanic made a house call and we were able to turn the engine backwards, but when trying to turn it forward, it wouldn't budge. I am going to tow it to his shop and have him pull the pan and head to see what is really going on, but I wanted to get some advice up front on what I should be looking to do. I feel sure that at least one rod is loose or broke. I have started looking for used engines as well as looked into the rebuilds. So here are a couple of my questions..

1. Is there a chance that I could get by with replacing the damaged rod or valve without having to rebuild the entire engine?

2. If the engine takes major work, should I rebuild the one I have or look into getting another?

3. If I get another engine, should I look at another used one or the rebuilt ones and if so, where?

I appreciate any and all input. Thanks!
 
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Thanks for your input bpassmore. I should find out more tonight since my mechanic is taking off the pan and maybe the head as well to see what the damage looks like.

We had some heavy rain a week ago and I hit some deep water on the roads, but I didn't think it would have been enough to cause hydrolock? Isn't the intake fairly well protected in the fender? Would hydrolock cause the rod to seize instantly or could it take a few days to seize?
 
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Ahh. Gotcha. Well, I will let you know when I find out more on what the damage looks like. I have a really good mechanic, but he is no Toyota expert and that is what I am leaning on MUD for.

Thanks again!
 
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We finally have the oil pan off and there was much water when we turned the pistons. About to remove the head and verify, but it looks to be the head gasket as bpassmore has said.

I called Cruiser Dan and he is out until Thursday. I really wanted to get the parts on order. Can anyone else tell me what all parts I will need to order to complete this job?

Thanks!
 
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There seems to be an epidemic of HG problems just recently. Mine blew about 3 weeks back and the HG failed in front of cylinder # 1. It dumped antifreeze into the timing chain cavity. My wife shut it down when it started to smoke, and then the same hydrolock condition was present when we tried to start it. Cylinder # 1 had filled with antifreeze. It was fun to pull the plugs and then turn the engine over to see the geyser from # 1.

If there is much antifreeze mixed with the oil in the lower end, you will want to make sure your mains and rod bearings are cleared of the resulting sludge. I was very surprised to see how much of a mess the lower pan was in. I made the decision to go through the entire engine.
 
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I have mine at a mechanic's now and he only had the oil pan off to start with, but did say that when he turned the engine a ton of water came out.
 
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Thanks Brent. Not really excited about being a new member :eek:

I called and spoke to one of Dan's other guys and he said he could get me the parts as long as I had the exact parts that I needed. He said that Dan was the only one that could rattle off the exact numbers needed to complete the job. :doh:
 

Brentbba

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Thanks Brent. Not really excited about being a new member :eek:

I called and spoke to one of Dan's other guys and he said he could get me the parts as long as I had the exact parts that I needed. He said that Dan was the only one that could rattle off the exact numbers needed to complete the job. :doh:

I'd wait for Dan then. You'll save $$ in the long run and get everything you'll need. I'd be curious to know if he recommends replacing the cylinder head bolts too - they are not cheap! I didn't and should be :ban: or :deadhorse: for my stupidity. :doh:
 
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That is one of the reasons I think I will wait and get his advice. I was told that they usually recommend replacing the bolts, but you can get by without. I would like to know what is really meant by "you can get by without"....
 

Brentbba

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That is one of the reasons I think I will wait and get his advice. I was told that they usually recommend replacing the bolts, but you can get by without. I would like to know what is really meant by "you can get by without"....

Shop that did mine - I had a slightly warped head that needed machining - is that the bolts may have been tweaked a little so since you are in there anyway, best to replace them. Shoot in the grand scheme of the cost of this job, it's just another 10% on top for the bolts.
 
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My brothers 95 had the same issue and local mechanic charged him $1200.00 for the repair, with new rings and etc. Look at it form a different prospective that once is done your engine will run like new and you don't have to worry about it for another 180K:) Good luck.
 
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I highly recommend replacing the head bolts with ARP bolts or studs, much better than OEM. Not many things are better than OEM, but ARP head hardware is.
 

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