FJ80 Audio Enthusiasts $1000 challenge (1 Viewer)

[murphy917]

Alright...before I get flamed for starting "Another speaker thread", I am posing a challenge to all of the audio guys on the board.

Design your dream audio system for a 95-97 FJZ80 for less than $1000...Sound simple enough?

Keep in mind the following criteria:
1) Sound quality is most important. Doesnt have to rattle the windows, but good quality bass would be nice.
2) Try to stay as factory as possible. Not opposed to cutting for speakers, aftermarket head units (that look stock) or even double din units. Perhaps like Mooker82 and use a center channel in the 2nd din portion.
3) Sound quality beats out factory look but try to find a happy medium. I am prone to have stereos stolen. In fact, in every city I have ever lived, I have had a theft...sucks....VIPER to the rescue...
4) Utilizing the upper rear speakers in the healiner would be a nice touch to use while camping or tailgaiting if a decent solution could be found.
5) Not opposed to using a stock CD changer from a newer Cruiser. Cheap on EBAY $150.00 but need to find a way to use aftermarket amps to get cleaner sound for the speakers. Would using an amp with speaker level inputs allow this and maintain good sound? or aftermarket head unit a must? thoughts...

Lets see what you boys come up with. I will post my rec. too to see what you think.


-Murph' in Carolina North

 

[PKP80]

Don't know about 1000, but it will be close

Headunit: Alpine $220
Front: AudioBahn 6.5 component $110
Rear: Audiobahn 4" integrated $65
No speakers in the roof, after all they are only tweeters
Amp: Rockford Fosgate 5-channel amp $380
Sub: 12" (1) (Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, or Audiobahn) $150

Wires, Wood, fiberglass, etc. $125


Total: $1100.

IMO anything is better than the stock setup in the 80, although it's not all that bad. Knowing how to install all the parts, wire, and make the boxes and speaker pods will save you 100's of dollars. Install for the above with the fiberglass kickpanels, and 12" sunken into the rear panel with an amp rack at a shop would conservatively cost you at least $600.

my $1100 and $.02

Sam

 

[murphy917]

Sam,

Is that what you have in your rig? IF so, have any pics? Would like to see how to create the least obtrusive subwoofer setup.

Anyone know of a good website for reference or anyone have pics of their own setup?

Willing to sacrifice some but not much cargo room.

Attaching one option I found. Like the bottle opener too...When the trails get a little dusty and you need to

 

[PKP80]

Murphy,
I have a similar setup in my rig. I am currently working on a few things, which should hopefully be ready in time for my ROTW I will post a few pics of what I have, but stay tuned for a detail review hopefully come January.

 

[mooker82]

For under $1000 I will agree with PKP 80. Audiobahn speakers have good sound quality for the price. I would use a Kenwood head unit because I like the 5 volt preouts and the audio controls, but thats just kinda a personal preference. Same with amp choice I would use a JL 500/5 amp mainly because I like JL. A single 10" kicer comp sub at $120 will provide good bass. Figure $150 for wood, install stuff, and wires and you are barely over budget. Building a system with amps, subs, and a new head unit for under $1000 is tough.

 

[mytlc]

O.k. I know i haven't potsted in along time, but saw a stereo thread and couldn't resist!! Dream system for $1000-not do able. But if thats all you wanted to spend and stay as theft proof as possible I would go with say an Eclipse head unit(anti theft built in) good front door speakers - step up to 61/2" seperates and use Focal brand install one ten inch sub like jlw3 in stock location and buy a decent four chanel amp run the front doors off the front channels and bridge the rear channels for the sub.

Now my system is waaaaaaay past $1000 and takes up NO and I repeat NO cargo room. Oh, by the way, I'm running two 12" subs!!!! I did all the fiberglass work my self and also did all the system layout and design. This is kind of my secret passion. Stuff you don't see in the pic, and anti theft was also a concern of mine is, capacitor is hidden in the panel behind the amp, the front amp is under drivers seat, base cube is hidden in panel behind amp, however I may fiberglass an amp rack where the amp is now and put the base cube in that, all speakers have been rewirred doors with 14 gauge and subs with 8 gauge.

Sound is awesome, I have plenty of bass and with the bass cube I can control via remote on dash the gain and frequency of the bass boost. This allows me to play ANY music and pic the exact point I want the subs to hit at and boost that one spot in the music all from the drivers seat. I have also wheeled many times in this truck 35's and six inches of lift will get you doing that, and this system design is bullet proof. I can still camp and sleep in the truck even with two 12's!!
Some pics for all to enjoy - they have been posted before but it's been awhile so here they are.

 

[murphy917]

Thanks for all the input from you guys.

I realize that there is no way to do this job for less than $1000 because I want it to sound really good, just want it to be the best bang for the buck. This FJZ80 is my dream truck and I want to put my dream stereo system in it b/c I plan on keeping it til she cracks 300k

Head units I am torn between the cool features of the Alpine DVA-9860 or CDA-9853 (realize not dvd) but wouldnt the 24bit of the DVA be better sound quality than the 9853?

I like the clean stock look of the Nakamichi cd400

Not to big on the Eclipse style. Too much bling for me. I have heard they are nice units but can't get past the look.

What do you think about a newer Toyota factory head unit with new amps/spekers?

What amps / speaker combo would you put with either of those head units listed above. Like a full sound, not a tinny high end and thumpy bass. Mellow sound, rich, full,...ha!

Also posting pics of speaker locations for the seperates up front. Thoughts on where to mound them?

61/2 in rear or 51/4"...or stick with 4" How much difference is there?

thanks in advance...

-Murph'

 

[murphy917]

Also....with regard to the sub situation.

Will a 10" fit in the stock location?

Considering a JL10w3 or an Alpine SWR-1042D

Attached is a pic from someone who is doing what I am talking about. Will this really work?

Will one amp run the entire system or do I need two? Can they be mounted out of sight. Maybe under the front seat or rear seats?

They JL amps look nice.

Also looking at the Alpine MRA-F350 for speakers and MRP-M350 for the sub. If I go with the Alpine head unit and the Alpine center channel speaker mounted just below the HU in the other DIN spot.

Thoughts?

 

[TX_TLC]

Thanks for all the input from you guys.

I realize that there is no way to do this job for less than $1000 because I want it to sound really good, just want it to be the best bang for the buck. This FJZ80 is my dream truck and I want to put my dream stereo system in it b/c I plan on keeping it til she cracks 300k

Head units I am torn between the cool features of the Alpine DVA-9860 or CDA-9853 (realize not dvd) but wouldnt the 24bit of the DVA be better sound quality than the 9853?

I like the clean stock look of the Nakamichi cd400

Not to big on the Eclipse style. Too much bling for me. I have heard they are nice units but can't get past the look.

What do you think about a newer Toyota factory head unit with new amps/spekers?

What amps / speaker combo would you put with either of those head units listed above. Like a full sound, not a tinny high end and thumpy bass. Mellow sound, rich, full,...ha!

Also posting pics of speaker locations for the seperates up front. Thoughts on where to mound them?

61/2 in rear or 51/4"...or stick with 4" How much difference is there?

thanks in advance...

-Murph'

Eclipse has too much bling? vs. Alpine? What Eclipse HU are you looking at? I went with my Eclipse for the nice somewhat stock look - if it were all black and not black and silver. Eclipse look plain next to Alpine.

 

[C6H12O6]

Will a 10" fit in the stock location?
Not without custom, not-stock modification. Also, unless you purchase a sub that is designed for a free-air set-up (no box), the sound will not be what you are expecting from adding a 10" sub.

Will one amp run the entire system or do I need two?
As referenced above, you can run a 4ch amp and run the front speakers of two of the channels and bridge the rear two amp channels for the sub. This would leave you running deck power for the rear speakers. You might look into this before you do it, since there are some head units that work in an either or mode when it comes to deck power vs. external amp power. A better option, if you can find one that fits where you want to mount it and you have the $$, is a 5ch amp. You can have four channels split among the doors and another mono sub channel. Nice option if you can swing it and if you aren't looking for SPL tournament sub performance. I believe JL makes a 5ch that will fit long-wise in the rear PS cargo panel.

Can they be mounted out of sight. Maybe under the front seat or rear seats?
Most people either leave them out in sight, or utilize the space behind that rear PS panel in the cargo area. You can remove the factory sub/amp and have plenty of room for an amp or two.

 

[murphy917]

here are a couple that I saw and thought they fell into the category of "bling" vs the category of "stock". I know they have the performance but just cant get past the look.

The Nakamichi looks so much more stock to me.

Do you know of another model that looks cleaner?

-M

 

[shocker]

Agree on the Eclipse. I was looking at them a couple of years... maybe just one year ago, and they looked similar to the Nakamichi.

Ended up losing my "upgrade-the-stereo buzz", but kind of regained it a month or so back.

Went to the Eclipse website again, and it looks like they had re-designed their lineup to look similar to most all the other blingthings, like someone shoved a Transformer robot into your dashboard.

 

[TX_TLC]

Agree on the Eclipse. I was looking at them a couple of years... maybe just one year ago, and they looked similar to the Nakamichi.

Ended up losing my "upgrade-the-stereo buzz", but kind of regained it a month or so back.

Went to the Eclipse website again, and it looks like they had re-designed their lineup to look similar to most all the other blingthings, like someone shoved a Transformer robot into your dashboard.

Damit...just googled and found the same thing. That sucks

Murphy here is my Eclipse, post #15 https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=56195/

Man that sucks they have gone this way...mine is less than a year old.

If those were my choices...I would go Naka also...

 

[shocker]

The big problem with Nakamichi is that it will blow a big chunk out of your $1,000 budget.

I know Clarion has some models that look less trinkety, but I'm not sure if they're able to switch to a matching green illumination.

Same with the Kenwood Excelon line... although those are getting a bit blingy.

If I were you, I'd start by buying the best speaker combination you could get, then look at possibly upgrading the head unit later if you deem it necessary.

I personally like the Nakamichi best, but it starts a slippery slope of wanting better speakers to match the head unit, then a better sub-system, then better amps, then better wiring.... before you know it, you're up around $3K.


Here is something new from JL Audio that is supposed to allow you to keep your factory stereo, but get superb aftermarket sound:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=79

No experience, just saw this website myself the other day.

 

[C6H12O6]

Even if you don't mind the bling look, I hate changing any of the controls on these new head units. I guess they're great if you are sitting in the Taco Bell parking lot trying to thump the bass and attract the ladies ~ you have all the time in the world to play with tiny buttons and jump through hoops to change the EQ settings (mostly due to the lack of ladies in the Taco Bell parking lot).

I hate my new-ish Alpine 9831. It is a downright safety hazard while driving. You better hope you like how it sounds before you leave the house, because you need an electrical engineering degree and the manual to change the stupid factory-set EQ curves (no bass or treble control), and the iPod interface is a slap in the face. Alpine's iPod controls are about as user friendly as the PHH placement.

 

[murphy917]

Ryan,

I have seen that and read good things about it. However, at $300...It would be just as cheap to buy the Nak or Alpine. (Yes, I can get the Nak for about $300) Just not sure about it yet.

Considering the Nak cd-500 now due to detatchable face and MP3 capability.

Anyone have any specific speaker considerations?

What model #s for both front and rear:
Focal?
Diamond Audio?
JL Audio?
Audiobahn?

As far as the stock sub replacement. The JL sub in the picture above is going into the stock location right? It is a 10" Will that not work or would it sound better to build a box around the rear wheel well. I just dont want to lose any cargo room if possible.

 

[murphy917]

would this work?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=121

6.5 woofer and tweeter in the door or kickplate and 4" midrange in dash?

3-way seperates?

 

[PKP80]

Stay away from the Nakamichi and if you plan to wheel the 80, the less moving parts the better when it comes to the headunit.

I did 6 3/4 in the door and the tweeter in the dash

Sam

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Stay away from the Nakamichi and if you plan to wheel the 80, the less moving parts the better when it comes to the headunit.

I did 6 3/4 in the door and the tweeter in the dash

Sam

Why stay away from the Nakamichi? Looks very plain with few moving parts.

 

[shocker]

Stay away from the Nakamichi and if you plan to wheel the 80, the less moving parts the better when it comes to the headunit.

I did 6 3/4 in the door and the tweeter in the dash

Sam

I think you're thinking of the Nak 6-disc in dash changer. A single disc changer will have no more moving parts than anything else.