FJ80 Audio Enthusiasts $1000 challenge

[ryanjl]

would this work?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=121

6.5 woofer and tweeter in the door or kickplate and 4" midrange in dash?

3-way seperates?

Those are going to be too deep for the door, so you'll have to go with a custom mount.

If you've never taken off the stock door speaker, you'll see it's some effed up super-shallow design, and the window track is immediately behind the speaker opening giving you only about 1.75" of depth.

 

[mooker82]

would this work?

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=121

6.5 woofer and tweeter in the door or kickplate and 4" midrange in dash?

3-way seperates?

Those 6.5 are deep like stated above. Also that 4" midrange will not fit in the dash. Those dash speakers are less than 1" deep. Check out the Diamond Audio S600s or S600a. They are 2 1/8" deep which is really shallow for a good sounding mid-priced speaker. I have used these before and they sound really good. I almost wish I would have went with those compared to the $600 jump up to the D series that I have now. S600s will set you back under $300 online.

 

[murphy917]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Narrowed the head unit down to 3 units and surprisingly enough, the Nak didnt make the list due to the MP3 features and lack of a repair shop in the area and have heard others talk about reliability concerns, not CD skipping (changer) but just overall.

The 3 options surprised me as I thought 2 of the companies would have had the most "blingy" units. However after reading the specs and comparing the features I am looking at:

1) Pioneer DEH-P8MP $258.00 - Love the MP3 search and 6.5 volt out
2) Alpine CDA-9855 $305.00 - If I have to go Alpine, this is it.
3) JVC KD-SHX850 $392.50 - 5 volt out, SD card for MP3s is great. Yes....JVC???
4) JVC KD-AVX1 - $427.00 - Simple interface, 3" DVD,JPG screen??

Let me say, that I have never been a "bells and whistles" guy. Sound quality is first and foremost, but if that is going to be similar in all of the above, then hey, I am not opposed to "bells and whistles" just for something else to screw around with.

Anyone know of these models? Personal experience....

I would have never dreamed I would have included Pioneer and JVC in my search but they are pretty sharp and specs were quite impressive.

 

[roncruiser]

Over the weekend I installed the Alpine CDA-9855. Super nice HU! Still getting used to the glide touch, but it's coming around. I would only recommend if serious about your sound system and plan to put in other higher-end components including subwoofer. Otherwise, this HU will improve the sound of the stock stuff immensely.
Audio controls up the wa-zoo!

 

[murphy917]

Decided to go with Diamond Audio speakers suggested by Mooker...You 'da man!!! They sound great!!! Found those Hex S600s for $205.00
Probably go with their coaxial 4" for the rear doors at $79.00 unless I can fit something else better in there. Want to stick with Diamond though.

Just need to decide on a head unit and sub. I have never had a subwoofer and honestly, the whole damn thing confuses me....Didn't grow up in that generation...ha!

Like to go JL Audio after reading around but dont know which model? And know nothing about enclosures...sealed, open air, etc..... Need to do some more reading.

Going to be close to on target to $1000 for materials.

No way to make it including labor and have a truly killer system.

That JVC looks kind of cool with the DVD and 3" screen built into the unit. None of that flip out stuff. Specs look pretty good on it too. Just not sure about JVC brand. Anyone?

 

[mooker82]

Any of the headunits you described are good, personally I would choose the Alpine out of your choices. In the price range that you seem to be going for on the head unit I would check this one out:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8TI9p26By8y/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&I=113EZ700SR

Hope you enjoy the Diamonds, in my opinion they sound incredible for the money. If you dont mind a litte trimming in the rear I would go up to the 5 1/4" Diamonds as they provide nice rear fill.

 

[mooker82]

Check out a JL 10W3 in a simple sealed box. Sound quality is good but it can still get loud too. It will be a nice match to the 250 watts. Be sure you get the dual 2OHM voice coil version wired in series to create a 4OHM load if you are going with just 1 sub. If you go with subs get the dual 4OHM voice coil model and wire them parallel to create a 4OHM load. Check out JL's websites tutorials if you are not sure what Im talking about. They also offer good advice on boxes and sample system designs.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141

 

[PKP80]

I think you're thinking of the Nak 6-disc in dash changer. A single disc changer will have no more moving parts than anything else.

I meant that as two separate comments....I hate the Nak having had one b/c the day time illumination and size of the face is terrible and it is over priced for what you get.

The moving part comment is just a general rec from experience, my HU has many moving parts, then again I like to fix things that aren't broken all the time so go figure.

 

[mytlc]

If you look at the pic of my sub enclosure above, with the 2 12" PG's. This is full enclosure, I can unbolt it and remove it from the truck and it will sound just like it does in the truck. I built this by fiberglassing in the entire cavity behind where the factory panel went, then removed the shell, reiforced it with more fiberglass (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch total thickness) then added a front to the shell i had made using 3/4 inch MDF. This was then fiberglassed together. This enclosure is strong, I put it on the ground and stood on it, then just to see if it would hold I jumped up and down on it!! No flex from the box.
This design could be changed to hold what ever sub config you were after, I have the perfect amount of air space for my 12's, so if you wanted one ten or one 12 you could just make the enclosure smaller.
A JL w3 would be a good choice due to the fact your not looking to win a sound off with this thing, just have it sound decent.
One other thing I would recommend is a 1/2 farad capacitor. Your not running alot of power to your system, BUT, it helps smooth out the large spikes a sub demands when it produces bass. This will help save your alternator from an early grave. Not required, but they're cheap, and belive it or not will help with the sound quality of the sub when played at higher volumes or music that requires alot of low end reproduction.

 

[Options20002001]

I am still building my system but couldn't resist to share what I have done so far. (Looks like I have taken a different path in putting together the audio system in my truck.)

Headunit: OEM, $0
Digital signal processor (DSP): Audiobahn ADD51T, $180
Wiring harnesses: Metra to integrate DSP with OEM headunit and amp, $25
Front doors speakers: Kicker 5.2 component but with MB Quart prem. crossovers, $130
Rear doors speakers: OEM, $0
Rear panels speakers: Mounted the ones from the front doors, $0
Dash speakers (wired as center): Blaupunkt pcxb352 with Pioneer TS-T15 tweeters and Kicker crossovers, $70
Subwoofer: Kenwood KSC-SW1 powered sub in the PS rear panel, $170
2nd Amp: Audiobahn A4004T, 4-channel amp in the PS rear panel, $100

Misc. wires, etc. $120


Total: ~$800. IMHO the OEM headunit can produce excellent results for a modest investment when mated with a good DSP and front door speakers. Add some more money for additional bass through a subwoofer.

I have spent additional $475 in 2 headrests screens (Power Accoustic) and a Blaupunkt DVD player to complete the 5.1 DD mobile theater.

I am very pleased with the SQ via DVD player or the OEM CD changer. The Audiobahn DSP preamp outs are at 9V so plenty of sound. The Audiobahn amp powers the front doors and the rear panel speakers while the OEM amp powers the rear doors and the center channel (when used). Front stage is most dynamic while the rear speakers (both rear doors and rear panels) are just there to "fill" in the rear stage sound. There is plenty of bass from the powered subwoofer (@ 1/4 gain) plus the front doors components.

Next, I am either going to replace the headunit with Eclipse AVN5435 (and a CD changer) for GPS capability or a carputer for GPS/OBD-II and MP3 capabilities. Haven't decided yet which direction to go.

Pradeep

 

[TX_TLC]

If you look at the pic of my sub enclosure above, with the 2 12" PG's. This is full enclosure, I can unbolt it and remove it from the truck and it will sound just like it does in the truck. I built this by fiberglassing in the entire cavity behind where the factory panel went, then removed the shell, reiforced it with more fiberglass (about 1/2 to 3/4 inch total thickness) then added a front to the shell i had made using 3/4 inch MDF. This was then fiberglassed together. This enclosure is strong, I put it on the ground and stood on it, then just to see if it would hold I jumped up and down on it!! No flex from the box.
This design could be changed to hold what ever sub config you were after, I have the perfect amount of air space for my 12's, so if you wanted one ten or one 12 you could just make the enclosure smaller.
A JL w3 would be a good choice due to the fact your not looking to win a sound off with this thing, just have it sound decent.
One other thing I would recommend is a 1/2 farad capacitor. Your not running alot of power to your system, BUT, it helps smooth out the large spikes a sub demands when it produces bass. This will help save your alternator from an early grave. Not required, but they're cheap, and belive it or not will help with the sound quality of the sub when played at higher volumes or music that requires alot of low end reproduction.

How many 's would you say the fiberglass enclosure was? Something a person could do as a first time ever working with fiberglass? How forgiving is the intial forming?

As I read what you have wrote, do I understand correctly that to for the backside, side, bottom, and top of the enclosure you formed them with fiberglass inside the rear side panel? Then once set you popped/pulled that out of the panel and put a face on it with MDF and more fiberglass?

Really love the clean look of the fiberglass and would like to do myself. Have used fiberglass "patch" kits before, but this seems like a little different animal.

Thanks!

 

[TX_TLC]

I am still building my system but couldn't resist to share what I have done so far. (Looks like I have taken a different path in putting together the audio system in my truck.)

Headunit: OEM, $0
Digital signal processor (DSP): Audiobahn ADD51T, $180
Wiring harnesses: Metra to integrate DSP with OEM headunit and amp, $25
Front doors speakers: Kicker 5.2 component but with MB Quart prem. crossovers, $130
Rear doors speakers: OEM, $0
Rear panels speakers: Mounted the ones from the front doors, $0
Dash speakers (wired as center): Blaupunkt pcxb352 with Pioneer TS-T15 tweeters and Kicker crossovers, $70
Subwoofer: Kenwood KSC-SW1 powered sub in the PS rear panel, $170
2nd Amp: Audiobahn A4004T, 4-channel amp in the PS rear panel, $100

Misc. wires, etc. $120


Total: ~$800. IMHO the OEM headunit can produce excellent results for a modest investment when mated with a good DSP and front door speakers. Add some more money for additional bass through a subwoofer.

I have spent additional $475 in 2 headrests screens (Power Accoustic) and a Blaupunkt DVD player to complete the 5.1 DD mobile theater.

I am very pleased with the SQ via DVD player or the OEM CD changer. The Audiobahn DSP preamp outs are at 9V so plenty of sound. The Audiobahn amp powers the front doors and the rear panel speakers while the OEM amp powers the rear doors and the center channel (when used). Front stage is most dynamic while the rear speakers (both rear doors and rear panels) are just there to "fill" in the rear stage sound. There is plenty of bass from the powered subwoofer (@ 1/4 gain) plus the front doors components.

Next, I am either going to replace the headunit with Eclipse AVN5435 (and a CD changer) for GPS capability or a carputer for GPS/OBD-II and MP3 capabilities. Haven't decided yet which direction to go.

Pradeep

Is your sub enclosed? or free flowing? Any pics of the amp/sub in the rear panel?
Thanks!

 

[murphy917]

wow....great posts...

All but decided on the Alpine unit but going to drive to Burlington,NC (closest Eclipse dealer) to listen to the Alpine & Eclispe both with the Diamond Audio / Focal / JL Audio speakers. I can see what all the hype about Eclipse is and see just how "blingy" the new decks are in person b/c the Alpine was not near as bad as I thought. and the JVC / Pioneer were kinda cheap looking in person.

I cannot believe that in a city with almost 200,000 people, there isn't one good car stereo shop...Unreal.

Can't make the 45 min drive until Saturday. Curious to see the differences in person. What would be a couple of good CDs to take to play to be able to hear the difference. (I have about 700 CDs and 20,000 MP3s, so should have just about anything...literally)

Kenwood looks nice Mooker...I always liked Kenwood 10-15 years ago when I last was into car stereo. I am 99% sure I will go with the Alpine for the best mix of sound / features / price point. I am also a die hard IPOD fan and it will be nice to have a 20-40GB IPOD to control from the glove box without wires. Never have to charge it. will basically just keep it in the car then to the gym (fully charged) then back in the car to recharge off the headunit.

Will keep that in mind when looking on Saturday and check it out along with everything else.

Good info on all the sub stuff too guys. Not sure which way to go yet. Anyone know anyone who makes a stealth box for the fj80. Saw one for the Tacoma and the 4runner & Tundra but no TLC. wonder why?

 

[murphy917]

Just in case anyone wants the Eclipse models that replace the stock locations they have both pair on ebay right now for 29.99 for the 5 1/4" and 29.99 for the 4" Model numbers again are:

5 1/4" SE8353 $29.99 + shipping
4" SE8243 $29.99 + shipping

$60.00 + shipping is a steal for this upgrade

FYI...

 

[Options20002001]

Is your sub enclosed? or free flowing? Any pics of the amp/sub in the rear panel?
Thanks!

The sub is enclosed. Here is a picture of the sub and I will soon post the pictures of the truck.

 

[PKP80]

TX_TLC,
Fiberglass is a tricky and can be a dangerous thing if not used correctly. The fumes are very strong so first and foremost you need a place with good venting. If you are glassing in the truck respirator for sure IMO.
If you follow the directions, take your time, PREP the ARea preventing ANY spills (b/c glass will NOT come off carpet) you should be fine. My first project with fiberglass were the front door speaker pods you see in my pic. Probably harder because of all kinds of clearance issues with the door closing and SQ, but I think a sub box would be no problem.

I can give you more info if you decide to go through with fiberglass give it a shot ver rewarding when you finish what you set out to do, and you will finish. First time just takes a little longer b/c of the learning curve.

Sam

 

[mytlc]

TX_TLC fiberglass is one of those things where there are many tricks of the trade. I built my door speaker pods for my first project and learned alot. After that I did the sub enclosure and I think it was more difficult due to the fact I had to make a perfect mold of the cavity. But here are the tricks you need to know!!

First remove every thing from that area of the truck i.e. rear carpet side panel plastic ect. Then decide where you want your sub(s) amp wires ect to run when it is all done. Now you get to start making your enclosure. First start by covering the entire area you want to make a mold of with masking tape, I use 3inch as it covers alot quickly. Next you need to spray glue aluminum foil to the tape. The fiberglass wont stick to the foil too well, which lets you make a mold, let it dry, then remove it from the truck. The tape will let you remove the foil from the truck. Now you have a very thin/plyable mold of the fenderwell area, I removed it at this point and just kept checking fotment after each step hardened. Just keep adding fiberglass mat and resin untill you have about 1/2 inch of thickness. Do this in steps though, not all layers at once. I usually do about three to four layers and let it set overnight. once the mold shell is thick enough cut your front speaker plate out of 3/4 inch MDF, there are more exotic options using MDF speaker rings and Grill cloth, but thats a whole other story!! Fiberglass the MDF to the enclosure, I use Grill cloth and staple it to the edge of the MDF then spray glue it to the mold. Next I coat the grill cloth with resin, let it harden and add layers of resin and mat to the inside of the enclosure at this area to add equal strength.
Any way this is a very very quick run down of what went in to my enclosure, there are still smoothing, bondo and vinal steps that would need to be done.
This is honestly about a four banana job, depending on your ability to fabricate.
Good luck, any other Q's just ask!!

 

[Options20002001]

TX_TLC, I don't know if you were able to open the link to the Kenwood subwoofer. It is enclosed. Frankly, after reading the posts about custom fiberglass enclosures, I am glad I went with the Kenwood. Really easy to install and provides plenty of bass for my taste. I believe this could be installed under the DS seat, if needed. Although need to check just to make sure.

Just my $0.02.

 

[murphy917]

Welll......That simple little $1000 challenge has ended. But not at $1000...Let's try $2000 installed. Exactly what I was looking for. It was worth a little bit more for it to be done right and done right the first time.

I must say that our boy Mooker knows his stuff.

After looking at: Alpine, Eclipse (best sounding), Pioneer, JVC and Nakamichi I settled on the Kenwood, which was the last one I saw and wish I had looked at it first b/c it was everything I was looking for. Simple, IPOD control w/charge, 5volt, classy stock look and warm sounding. Although the Eclipse sounded the best, hands down, by the way...It didn't sound that much better than the Kenwood Excelon series to forfiet the IPOD control and detatchable face features. Plus, the graphics were just tooooo "cool guy" for me. Like someone said, looked like a Transformer exploded in it. Sounded great though. Blew the Alpine out of the water to my ear. Much fuller and warmer.

Diamond Audio speakers were fantastic. s600s in front and Motorsport 5 1/4 in rear.

JL 500/5 amp and decided to go with a Boston Acoustic G5 sub and radiator combo. It was INCREDIBLE and tiny (only 1cubic foot) for the 12" sub combo. Expensive but worth it to me.

Topped it off with a Phoenix Gold equalizer to fit in the bottom of the double din opening to make it easy for a dumb guy like me to adjust the settings.

Also went ahead and dynamatted both front doors and all around the rear of the cargo are including the liftgate. I dont want any rattle from that sub and want it to sound good.

After tax, installation, wiring, blah..blah...Total cost $1945.00 for the nicest stereo system I have ever heard.

Look forward to a little Rage against the Machine on the trails come spring.

Thanks for all the feedback.
-Murph'

 

[TX_TLC]

Sooo is the amp and sub installed? Did you do something low profile in the back? Where is the amp?

I bet it sounds great! I like my Eclipse with Memphis speakers in the doors. Can't wait to add the amp and sub to fill out the sound. Memphis have very nice tight mid-bass.