FJ80, a good buy in today's market? (1 Viewer)

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OK, my bad...Disregard to all my previous comments. I just saw FJ80 in the title. But regardless to which motors u got, the basic maintenance still applies 99%

ha, lol ;)

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Regardless, I'm curious if you think the fzj80 will actually keep going up in value, or is it really just a fluke with the pandemic and whole overlanding fad?
I think it will continue to rise due to today's top heavy software trend. The 80 is not a software-run rig and I think that's driving alot of the interest. A caveat to this is of course fuel production and availability. If anything, it may be smartest to drop a diesel into an 80 as I believe diesel fuel will be available for far longer than gasoline. (truest energy density conundrum for EV proponents)

The overlanding fad...is it a fad? IMO it probably is in the US, as we just don't have the undeveloped land mass that other countries have. And if the overlanding becomes rough, the fad'ders will go home to stay. edit:and hopefully sell their expensive s***e ubber cheap. lol
 
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could probably fix it up a bit then flip it out west


Huh, I assumed they would keep going up like the 55s and 60s, but I guess I could see them losing their luster if gas goes up and the overlanding thing fades and the used car market cools down.

Would you say $8k is an artificially inflated price for it though? I've heard you can't touch them for under 15 on the west coast. Pretty much no rust on this one either except for exhaust.


You know what, I changed my mind, you should buy it and do this...

In my relatively short time in lapping the sun, I’ve come under the impression that it’s those who already have plenty of money are the ones who successfully speculate on the appreciation of cars, but hey, maybe a baller on a budget like yourself can buck the trend.

You keep asking about the potential future value of 80’s, as if for advise... nobody here has a crystal ball, so like I said before, make your own decision, that way you only have yourself to blame.
 
@Ozark80

if you don't have or don't want to spend the money on the truck , don't buy a LC

If you want to maintain the growing value of the LC's keep it in good shape and updated
 
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Ok, so it's looking like I am in fact getting it. The seller is having the bumper replaced for free and apparently some LC enthusiast offered 8500 cash as is but they "want me to have it so they can see it around town." Also, I already made this account and posted in the 80 series forum, so I felt kinda obliged to follow through.

I picked up another shift as a research assistant. I plan to use that income (about 500 a month) for PM and "restoration" (new seats, fixing the "D" bulb, etc.). I'll start with the cooling system and brakes and go from there.

All jokes aside, I had a feeling that this was going to be my one and only chance to own a solid axle Land Cruiser, and I just had to seize it. If I do end up getting burnt or drowning in repair bills like some of y'all warned, I know I'll have no one to blame but myself.

To wake and up and see that heavy hunk of a Japanese utility vehicle in my driveway.. I'd say that's worth all the heartache.. for now anyway
 
Inspecting the cooling system today. Plan to do a flush and tackle the PHH this week: seems to be original? Will replace tstat as well.

Coolant looks rusty, either that or they used Dexcool, god forbid. 100% needs a good flushing.

Trying to decide if I should try to tackle anything else like the fan clutch or water pump, or just do what I listed above and call it a day for now. Most of the other hoses appear in good condition. I am on a budget after all.

I have been reading threads on cooling maintenance etc. but I'm posting just for updates or in case anyone has advice for this particular truck.

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Inspecting the cooling system today. Plan to do a flush and tackle the PHH this week: seems to be original? Will replace tstat as well.

Coolant looks rusty, either that or they used Dexcool, god forbid. 100% needs a good flushing.

Trying to decide if I should try to tackle anything else like the fan clutch or water pump, or just do what I listed above and call it a day for now. Most of the other hoses appear in good condition. I am on a budget after all.

I have been reading threads on cooling maintenance etc. but I'm posting just for updates or in case anyone has advice for this particular truck.

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Dont bother doing the PHH. Other than it being hard to reach it is no more or less important than any other hose. Just save up and by all the hoses at once. Should only be about 200 or so. Then drain the system, change all hoses and flush things. You will save money on just the antifreeze.

Honestly there is so much to do on a new truck. Just save up and stock pile parts, do stuff all at one. Start with changing ALL the fluids. Diffs and transfer case probably have not been changed in a long time.
Fuel and air filter, and belt. That should keep you busy for a bit.

Dont over complecate the atf. Just drain and fill. Do that a few more times over the next month or two.

After that try to work on it system at a time. If the front brake pads are worn look at the rotors and replace them. If the pads are wearing unevenly put new seals in the calipers. If the calipers and rotors come of think about knuckles. If you open that up consider new wheel bearings.

Same thing with everything. If one tie rod end is bad figure they should all be done and so on. It will make much better use of your time and give you a nice warm feeling when you are falling asleep at night

And congratulations on the purchase. Welcome to the addiction!
 
Mate I have owned 3 and just bought another for safari purposes. We change out wheel bearings and coolant every year. Stock suspension. Cannot remember changing a hose but fixed one with an insert. Full service every 5,000kms. Seat covers to protect the seats. Unless you are rock climbing you don't need the mods. I Never touched a gearbox or a diff apart from one that needed a new bearing. Look at scrap yards for good second-hand stuff. The real advantage now is that you gain all the wealth of knowledge from this forum.
 
I always start simple. Brakes-will it stop if it starts moving. Cooling-will the engine stay happy. Starting-are all the right pieces in place and not worn out (air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, starter contacts).

Stop, suck, bang, blow. The circle of life….for a land cruiser.

We all figured you would get the Xterra (me anyway) and come back on the forum regretting your decision. This is great news, congratulations on the purchase. These are not in the same category as a throw away tin can. Almost everything can be rebuilt with enough time and energy. Use the search function a lot and then ask questions of the forum. We love pictures. Psst…..more pictures.

Most of the hoses look original just based on the clamp used. You can go crazy and buy everything you need in one fail swoop (go broke fast) to baseline the rig or wait until something breaks and focus on that one issue (go broke slowly). Either way, you will go broke.

Oh, and pictures please.
 
Congrats on the dive and were one to find themselves stranded in a small shop in nowheresvilletonburgshirenia, the valve is the only thing that looks 'immediately' bad - outlet side?
YMMV but the rest just looks dusty/dirty.
Consider a proper engine bay detail job (edit:make sure they don't use high pressure liquid). May cost a few hundred, but it'll give you a head start.
Welcome to the club. :slap:
:cheers:
 
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Congrats!

How are the brakes? if they are sticking or pulling and rust isn't a big issue, order some caliper rebuild kits and maybe some spare pistons from rock auto or something. Cheapest way to do it and you can rebuild all your calipers, and replace a piston or two if you find some damaged. Cheap and good way to get to safe. Plus you will get a chance to see if you need to replace any soft lines.

I want to second what @rc51kid said. Just buy all the hoses, and the heater valve. Even get the little ones all up top PHH etc. Do it all at once. You will be glad you did. I would drain the antifreeze out. flush, and refill with distilled water. about a week before you do the hose replacement. help clean it out a little and, at least the water isn't sticky like Antifreeze seems to be. Then get the lube of your choice or that others recommend on here for helping you slide the hoses on and knock it all out. One shot and be done.

Toyota oil filters can be bought in bulk and are cheap, with very high quality. I don't recommend putting any additives to clean it up etc, but a good oil change with a good filter is a great start. clean the air filter if it is the cleaning type, Pretty sure the toyota version is the cleaning type. and maybe consider spark plugs and wires soon, check them, they may not be that old.

spend the rest of all that money you got and clean the interior really well so you feel comfortable.

you can repack bearings for cheap, lube drive shafts and even replace the diff oil etc on subsequent pay checks.

Enjoy!
 
Given that this is new to you and your budget I think you should focus on inspecting and learn to know what the 80 actually needs vs. what can wait. Sure, you could do a full baseline for a few thousand bucks in parts, etc. but that's not really an option it doesn't sound like and if you are operating close to home (low risk if you break down vs. in the backcountry) then you can get more service out of a lot of what's on the truck. Simply getting a AAA membership (towing can get expensive) and driving it carefully may get you by for a while with minimal financial risk.

As you inspect/learn create a list of things to fix and then put the list into order of priority and/or grouped by the work best done together. You can then anticipate times when you'll have time/$ and knock out repairs over time, when they fit your budget.

That said, it is wise to quickly fix anything that may create more damage that costs big $$. The cooling system is a perfect example since if you keep it cool you are much less likely to damage the engine. Similarly make sure your wheel bearings are all tight (will damage spindle and drive poorly if run too loose), your fluids are clean and fresh, shafts are greased, the nuts on the bottom of the knuckles are tight, etc.

Since it's a '97 with odb2 I'd buy the following immediately (get one that works with your phone, android/apple):


Then install torque:

Running torque will show your coolant temp. in real time. The built-in temp gauge on these is pretty useless but using torque as you drive in different conditions will let you know if your cooling system is up to snuff. You can read here or share your numbers to get input on those temps being normal. As a rough idea, in very hot conditions working hard you still want your cooling system to keep the engine below 220. That's a rough number and conditions vary a lot but start watching the temps and you'll quickly know if you need to tune the fan clutch or do other work. FYI, if your fan clutch is OE / Quality and not too rusty/etc. then it can likely just be split apart, have the oil changed and the timing (what temp it opens at) checked/adjusted. This is a cheap and pretty important upgrade in many situations but get the actual temp numbers first.

Congrats!
 
oh yeah, agree with the above on the heater valve. It's turning brown in your picture which means it's getting brittle and will be easy to break when you change hoses on it or bump it. It's a big liability right now.

Also, many of us run Rotella diesel oil as it's relatively inexpensive and also does a good job in these engines keeping them happy and clean. I also buy toyota oil filters in bulk online, as mentioned above, and I only change the oil a few times a year on mine (Spring and Fall when the weather is nice) though your driving may dictate otherwise. etc.

Here's a few part #s in case you need them. These are in my list of past purchase for my '97 and are not going to match what you need exactly but may help you get started. Check places like Partsouq, mcgeorge, etc. to find best prices:
thermostat90916-03117
thermostat gasket/oringB 16346-66020
radiator cap16401-71010
hose, phh pipe upper end87245-60480
Water Hose Clips for hoses into TB96135-51300
HOSE, hard line front of engine to front side of throttle body16264-66021(16264)
HOSE, connects on the back side of the throttle body16261-66040 (16261G)
HOSE, from radiator to next to distributor16267-66020 (16267)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.3 (PS lower hose)16573-66010 (16573B)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.1 (DS hose)16571-66030 (16571C)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.2 (PS upper hose)16572-66021 (16572D)
HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, (connects to the end of the hard line running across the front of the engine and back side of water pump, cut to length)99555-10200 (16278D)
water pump gasket16271
upper radiator hose16571-66030
lower radiator hose #316573-66010
lower radiator hose #216572-66021
transmission cooler hose32941-60110
transmission cooler hose32943-60121
transmission cooler hose90445-17102
transmission cooler hose32943-60051

gasket - heater return on top of tstat housing15785-66010
hose - extra?99556-30100
hose - firewall heater99556-30100
hose - cut in half, use below heater valve99556-30100
hose - cut to 7cm, firewall near heater valve99556-30100
Hose, bent PS near valve 8" 90 degree87245-60480
Hose bentGates 1/2 in. 90 deg. hose 28460
Hose, bent PS near valve 4" 20 degree87245-60350
Hose, bent PS near valve 10" 90 90 and twist87245-60340
HOSE, OUTLET A (with rear heater) Short hose from tee to the firewall87245-60350 (87246A)
 
Congrats!

How are the brakes? if they are sticking or pulling and rust isn't a big issue, order some caliper rebuild kits and maybe some spare pistons from rock auto or something. Cheapest way to do it and you can rebuild all your calipers, and replace a piston or two if you find some damaged. Cheap and good way to get to safe. Plus you will get a chance to see if you need to replace any soft lines.

I want to second what @rc51kid said. Just buy all the hoses, and the heater valve. Even get the little ones all up top PHH etc. Do it all at once. You will be glad you did. I would drain the antifreeze out. flush, and refill with distilled water. about a week before you do the hose replacement. help clean it out a little and, at least the water isn't sticky like Antifreeze seems to be. Then get the lube of your choice or that others recommend on here for helping you slide the hoses on and knock it all out. One shot and be done.

Toyota oil filters can be bought in bulk and are cheap, with very high quality. I don't recommend putting any additives to clean it up etc, but a good oil change with a good filter is a great start. clean the air filter if it is the cleaning type, Pretty sure the toyota version is the cleaning type. and maybe consider spark plugs and wires soon, check them, they may not be that old.

spend the rest of all that money you got and clean the interior really well so you feel comfortable.

you can repack bearings for cheap, lube drive shafts and even replace the diff oil etc on subsequent pay checks.

Enjoy!
So far it hasn't not stopped.. I'm not sure I would trust them if I point the thing down into a stream bed though.. I was just gonna replace the pads which are pretty worn.

You're saying drive it for a week with just distilled water? To be honest I'm feeling a little daunted by the cooling system overhaul: would you recommend replacing the water pump and fan clutch as well. If there's one part of the vehicle I don't wanna "fix it when it breaks" and really "baseline" it, it's the cooling system.

The interior is a little rough, but it's still nicer than any other car I've owned. I'm more of a poverty-sec kinda guy anyway.. would've preferred one with cloth seats but it's cool to have a sun roof that surprisingly still works great.

Also the bearings were repacked by a shop a few months ago apparently. As far as the suspension I was gonna wait until I hear any clunks or chirping to even think about getting into that..
 
oh yeah, agree with the above on the heater valve. It's turning brown in your picture which means it's getting brittle and will be easy to break when you change hoses on it or bump it. It's a big liability right now.

Also, many of us run Rotella diesel oil as it's relatively inexpensive and also does a good job in these engines keeping them happy and clean. I also buy toyota oil filters in bulk online, as mentioned above, and I only change the oil a few times a year on mine (Spring and Fall when the weather is nice) though your driving may dictate otherwise. etc.

Here's a few part #s in case you need them. These are in my list of past purchase for my '97 and are not going to match what you need exactly but may help you get started. Check places like Partsouq, mcgeorge, etc. to find best prices:
thermostat90916-03117
thermostat gasket/oringB 16346-66020
radiator cap16401-71010
hose, phh pipe upper end87245-60480
Water Hose Clips for hoses into TB96135-51300
HOSE, hard line front of engine to front side of throttle body16264-66021(16264)
HOSE, connects on the back side of the throttle body16261-66040 (16261G)
HOSE, from radiator to next to distributor16267-66020 (16267)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.3 (PS lower hose)16573-66010 (16573B)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.1 (DS hose)16571-66030 (16571C)
HOSE, RADIATOR, NO.2 (PS upper hose)16572-66021 (16572D)
HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, (connects to the end of the hard line running across the front of the engine and back side of water pump, cut to length)99555-10200 (16278D)
water pump gasket16271
upper radiator hose16571-66030
lower radiator hose #316573-66010
lower radiator hose #216572-66021
transmission cooler hose32941-60110
transmission cooler hose32943-60121
transmission cooler hose90445-17102
transmission cooler hose32943-60051

gasket - heater return on top of tstat housing15785-66010
hose - extra?99556-30100
hose - firewall heater99556-30100
hose - cut in half, use below heater valve99556-30100
hose - cut to 7cm, firewall near heater valve99556-30100
Hose, bent PS near valve 8" 90 degree87245-60480
Hose bentGates 1/2 in. 90 deg. hose 28460
Hose, bent PS near valve 4" 20 degree87245-60350
Hose, bent PS near valve 10" 90 90 and twist87245-60340
HOSE, OUTLET A (with rear heater) Short hose from tee to the firewall87245-60350 (87246A)
Thanks; you'd say the diesel oil is preferable to Mobil one high mileage etc.?
 
I'm hoping the HG will last me at least until 250k, hopefully more. From what I've read, they aren't as bad as a 3VZ or rover v8 as long as you take precautionary steps like those suggested above..
 
you'd say the diesel oil is preferable to Mobil one high mileage etc.?

I'm not qualified to weigh in on that but I've run Rotella 15w40 in my 80 since getting it 5 years ago and have no plans to change oils. I see no oil consumption, the engine runs great, leaks are acceptable, Rotella is easy to find and the price is good so I've not shopped around for alternatives. In most engines that are low stress like the 1FZ I personally consider the weight of the oil and periodic changes as the only important points. If you are trying to manage leaks or other issues changing oil formulation may help but in my opinion the 1FZ would run fine on most/all correctly weighted dino or syn oils.

In some engines I'm very particular about the oil depending on how much stress, temp range of operation, if a clutch is involved (motorcycle), bearing materials used (very old engines), etc. etc. but not in the 80 for how I use it.

No way to know on the HG but I'm in the camp that believes that if you avoid internal corrosion and overheating that you shouldn't worry about the HG. I did my HG as PM as the cooling passages were really dirty and the engine had obviously not been taken care of. I also had leaky valve stem seals and wanted to address those along with a general inspection, replacing all hoses/lines etc. It wasn't that big of a job since I did it on my own schedule (vs. in response to a breakdown).

Even though your bearings were just serviced you should still plan to check them for tightness whenever you have a wheel in the air. It's free/easy and can help you avoid needing to buy spindles or being annoyed by poor tracking/handling. Good thing is that at most you'll need to retorque the bearings but hopefully you won't even need to do that. You can just firmly shake the wheels with hands at 12/6 oclock and then 9/3 oclock when you raise them to replace your brake pads and if you feel slack you know you need to increase the torque (read on mud for more info).

Get the odb2 sender and start monitoring your temps as a cheap next step re the cooling system. The fan clutch is easy to remove/service at any time so there's no reason to add it to your hose/flush job unless you just want to. Share a picture of the clutch and we can tell you if it's a good one that is serviceable or not. Silicone fluid is cheap if you need to tune it for more power and as long as the one you have isn't too rusty, damaged or a crappy off-brand I'd just service it. In my opinion the clutch is a good place to do a bit of PM if you think it needs it because it's cheap to tune them and very important for keeping these engines cool provided the system is decent otherwise.
 

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