FJ62 Voltage Regulator??? (1 Viewer)

[LCABOVEALL]

Electrical system question. On the FJ62 I am restoring, I went through all the steps I can think of to debug the power windows and locks. I rehabbed all the window components and replaced all the runs. All operational. One by one I confirmed the locking actuators work. I'm having two problems now that seem related.

1) the windows up and down are much slower then they should be.
2) if all of the locking actuators are connected, at least one and sometimes two of the doors don't lock. I tested and confirmed they are all getting voltage, but the ones that don't lock are getting a very low amount of juice so they are simply too weak to function. But, if I disconnect just one of the actuators, any one, all the others work and are extremely strong.

So I seem to have a voltage issue. I have seen a voltage regulator for an FJ62 on e-bay and other parts sites, which is confusing. The alternator has a regulator. What is the purpose of this second separate voltage regulator? Did the FJ62 come from the factory with both? If so, were is this stand alone unit located?

Any suggestions?

 

[pithicus]

Unfortunately the locks and windows are a bit ordinary on the 62. I have a 62 and mid 80's 70 series and both have weak windows. and the lock on the 70 doesn't work at all any more. The voltage reg/ alternator is unrelated to your problem.
Some info here Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-windows-and-door-locks-permanent-fix.261058/
Bit of a marathon, but it might help with your particular problem?

***long shot. On the right hand side of your fuse panel there are 2 thermal breakers[square silver things], one for the windows and the other for the blower motor. The window/lock breaker might have a poor internal connection. You can try swapping them over. [use the blower one for the window one and vis versa].

 

[Seth S]

Your 62 has an internal voltage regulator alternator so no additional external regulator.

I'd start with the following:

1. use a Digital Volt Meter (DVOM) with the truck off to measure the voltage between battery positive and negative. Also measure voltage between the battery positive and the Alternator output post. If you see less than the resting battery voltage here then you likely have dirty battery terminals or tired fusible link.

2. Next I would start the truck and repeat the same measurements from #1 and see what you get. At idle you should be seeing between 13 and 14.4 volts across the battery. You can also try bumping the throttle slightly and seeing if the voltage jumps as well.

Once you know the health of your charging system then you can go after other things. I suspect you have some grounding issues along with voltage loss simply due to aging wiring. You might also have corrosion in one or more connectors.

Consider buying one of the upgraded battery lead kits offered by various mud vendors. This will boost the gage of the battery cables and replace the old leads with new along with new battery terminals. This will help with overall system voltage and everything will work better.

Then I'd also start looking through the FSM electrical diagrams to see where the ground locations are for the systems you are having trouble with and at the least located and clean the grounds or repair any that might be broken.

Other things that can help with things like power windows are to take the doors apart and clean and lube the window regulators and replace any worn felt strips other other guides that may be in there. These units get stiff over time and can really make it a challenge for those electric motors to move the glass.

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Your 62 has an internal voltage regulator alternator so no additional external regulator.

I'd start with the following:

1. use a Digital Volt Meter (DVOM) with the truck off to measure the voltage between battery positive and negative. Also measure voltage between the battery positive and the Alternator output post. If you see less than the resting battery voltage here then you likely have dirty battery terminals or tired fusible link.

2. Next I would start the truck and repeat the same measurements from #1 and see what you get. At idle you should be seeing between 13 and 14.4 volts across the battery. You can also try bumping the throttle slightly and seeing if the voltage jumps as well.

Once you know the health of your charging system then you can go after other things. I suspect you have some grounding issues along with voltage loss simply due to aging wiring. You might also have corrosion in one or more connectors.

Consider buying one of the upgraded battery lead kits offered by various mud vendors. This will boost the gage of the battery cables and replace the old leads with new along with new battery terminals. This will help with overall system voltage and everything will work better.

Then I'd also start looking through the FSM electrical diagrams to see where the ground locations are for the systems you are having trouble with and at the least located and clean the grounds or repair any that might be broken.

Other things that can help with things like power windows are to take the doors apart and clean and lube the window regulators and replace any worn felt strips other other guides that be in there. These units get stiff over time and can really make it a challenge for those electric motors to move the glass.

Thanks Seth. All great suggestions. The last point on your list, was my starting point which I completed as part of my window and door rehab.

Updating the leads is a good idea in general. I didn't know there was a Kit available. Any supplier you recommend? All the ground points are easy to get to and check out now that the entire interior is stripped out, so I'll check all of these and clean up the connections as a point of good measure. Once these points are completed, and I'm still having the same issue, I'll circle back.

 

[Seth S]

@ToyotaMatt has a wire kit and terminals I believe.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Your 62 has an internal voltage regulator alternator so no additional external regulator.

I'd start with the following:

1. use a Digital Volt Meter (DVOM) with the truck off to measure the voltage between battery positive and negative. Also measure voltage between the battery positive and the Alternator output post. If you see less than the resting battery voltage here then you likely have dirty battery terminals or tired fusible link.

2. Next I would start the truck and repeat the same measurements from #1 and see what you get. At idle you should be seeing between 13 and 14.4 volts across the battery. You can also try bumping the throttle slightly and seeing if the voltage jumps as well.

Once you know the health of your charging system then you can go after other things. I suspect you have some grounding issues along with voltage loss simply due to aging wiring. You might also have corrosion in one or more connectors.

Consider buying one of the upgraded battery lead kits offered by various mud vendors. This will boost the gage of the battery cables and replace the old leads with new along with new battery terminals. This will help with overall system voltage and everything will work better.

Then I'd also start looking through the FSM electrical diagrams to see where the ground locations are for the systems you are having trouble with and at the least located and clean the grounds or repair any that might be broken.

Other things that can help with things like power windows are to take the doors apart and clean and lube the window regulators and replace any worn felt strips other other guides that may be in there. These units get stiff over time and can really make it a challenge for those electric motors to move the glass.

@ToyotaMatt has a wire kit and terminals I believe.

there are 2 different fj62 plug codes , a photo of your alternator socket w./ the male spades or the old female input plug connctor itself is all i need

PM me or post here , if here please also TAG me


i keep stock of both repair service in the field kits OEM NipponDenso Japan parts , ONLY way i roll


thanks matt

 

[LCABOVEALL]

Unfortunately the locks and windows are a bit ordinary on the 62. I have a 62 and mid 80's 70 series and both have weak windows. and the lock on the 70 doesn't work at all any more. The voltage reg/ alternator is unrelated to your problem.
Some info here Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-windows-and-door-locks-permanent-fix.261058/
Bit of a marathon, but it might help with your particular problem?

***long shot. On the right hand side of your fuse panel there are 2 thermal breakers[square silver things], one for the windows and the other for the blower motor. The window/lock breaker might have a poor internal connection. You can try swapping them over. [use the blower one for the window one and vis versa].

amazing. I preformed the mod for the locks, and it worked great!! I have already built the first relay harness for one passenger window and I expect it will work just as well. Thanks!!!!