FJ62 - Replaced starter contacts - still doesn't always start?

bitdan

bitdan

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My 62 would sometimes not start. I would get power and hear a "clink" when the key turns but no start. Leave it for awhile and it would usually start. After reading here I assumed it was the contacts so I ordered new ones with the plunger as well. I did the rebuild and the problem still exists. Any suggestions?
 
HBFJ62

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Or the neutral start switch. Or intermittent fuel pump. Or fuel pump relay. Or corroded connection to fuel pump. Or bad ignition switch. Or maybe some other reason.

Intermittent start/no start seems to be rather common for the FJ62. I went through one round where it turned out to be a intermittent fuel pump with a slightly out of spec fuel pump relay.

Now its doing it again but I suspect the neutral start switch because when it starts the starter turns very easy and starts right up.

I do know (at least for me) the start/no start issue on the 62 is not an easy problem to diagnose. Got to have a FSM and almost go through all the possible electrical, fuel, and air causes for the problem.
 
LegShot

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The same exact thing just happened to me. Replaced the contacts and the problem actually got worse. Ended up spending $100 on a new starter and that solved the problem. It is fairly easy to replace. It took me about 30 minutes.
 
bitdan

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Or the neutral start switch. Or intermittent fuel pump. Or fuel pump relay. Or corroded connection to fuel pump. Or bad ignition switch. Or maybe some other reason.

I may need to clarify that it does not crank. The starter does not try to engage. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't this rule out the fuel pump possibilities?
 
bitdan

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The same exact thing just happened to me. Replaced the contacts and the problem actually got worse. Ended up spending $100 on a new starter and that solved the problem. It is fairly easy to replace. It took me about 30 minutes.

This looks like the direction I will be going. Same thing for me. Problem got worse. Sucks because I just removed starter to replace the contacts. So... It would have cost less and took less time if i would have just replaced the starter the first time. Oh well, at least I get to spend some more time under the cruiser. .

I just solved mine (hopefully :rolleyes:) by replacing a loose negative battery cable.

I'll cross my fingers and check this first.
 
antigravity

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I had the same problem on my 60. After rebuilding the starter with new contacts and plunger, I still had the recurring issue of a clink and then no start. In my case, it would never eventually turn over. I replaced my starter... but still had the issue!!

My recommendation would be to follow the leads from the battery + and - terminals, and loosen, clean and tighten every single connection, in order. check and re-check. if that fails... new starter time.
 
lehiguy

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I may need to clarify that it does not crank. The starter does not try to engage. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't this rule out the fuel pump possibilities?

A bad armature will not crank, but you will hear the solenoid engage. If there is no solenoid engagement, then it could be the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch (I hate those) the ignition switch, a fault in the power source wires from the battery to the ignition switch or the solenoid itself. You may need a helper, but if you can test the switched wire at the starter solenoid for current the next time it happens, (with the key in the crank position) you will be able to eliminate some things on the list. If there is no current there, start working backwards. It seems that the most likely culprit, if there is no juice at the solenoid with the key in the crank position, is the neutral switch which can be bypassed temporarily (if not permanently) for test purposes.
 
Randy88FJ62

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The FJ62 NSS is a 2 hr job to take off, clean, put back on vehicle and adjust. This is for a relatively rust free CA truck though... I have a working spare if anyone is desperate.

First check that your battery cables are tight and clean. If you still get the click; have a friend go under and hit it with a hammer while you crank. If it turns right over then it may be worth replacing the starter. Like HBFJ62 said, there are so many variables and checking them all via FSM is usually the only way to go.
 
hward1

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mine was the fusible link coming from the battery not connected good -- quick and easy fix - try it --- previous owners replaced everything for me - i guess they forgot about the simple things
 
lonelydriver

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I had the same issue, turned out to be the ignition switch under the steering column. was a quick swap. I'm assuming it wasn't allowing enough voltage through the switch and I was just getting a click.

after replacing, not a single problem.

got mine off rockauto
 
HBFJ62

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I may need to clarify that it does not crank. The starter does not try to engage. Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't this rule out the fuel pump possibilities?

I would think so too. But the ECU has inputs and outputs for fuel pressure and I decided (don't know if I'm right) that if there is zero fuel pressure the ECU does not give the OK to the starter circuit to close. At least that seemed to be the problem with my intermittent fuel pump.

Would need the IH8MUD gurus to verify or debunk this idea because I don't really know, only guessing based on my experience.

When it would not start, the fuel pump was not spinning, it would not crank, just hear the clicking which I never knew if it was the Main Relay or the Fuel Pump Relay. When it would start, the pump would spin and she started right up. It took me forever to figure out. Wasn't until I bench tested the fuel pump for the 4th time that I got it to recreate the intermittent behavior.

You can jump the fuel pump at the test connector but I forget which terminals to jump without digging out the FSM. If the pump spins by jumping at the test connector then fuel pump should be good.

Which brings me to a question for the forum... Does anyone know the sequence of events that occurs when the ignition switch is engaged? Is there even an order or do all systems start at the exact same time?
 
bitdan

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just had a similar problem. Turned out it was the connector to the starter.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/413123-intermittent-starting-fj62.html

I checked all the wiring and didn't see anything that was suspect. The ground from the starter to the frame was pretty dirty so I replaced that and I replaced the starter. Seems good now. I did notice that connector was rough but not until I replaced the starter, and I didn't see this post until I was done... Go Figure! So I ordered one of those connectors and will get that done since it's cheap and easy enough. Thanks to all for your help. I now have a almost new (maybe 20 starts) set of contacts and plunger if anyone needs them. I wasn't going to send those back with the core.
 
Spike Strip

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Ignition switch.
 
A

atxfj62

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I had the same issue, turned out to be the ignition switch under the steering column. was a quick swap. I'm assuming it wasn't allowing enough voltage through the switch and I was just getting a click.

after replacing, not a single problem.

First timer. After digging around, this thread seems to match my current symptoms; especially this post. When it won't start, I get power (lights) and a single click heard within the cab.

Happened to me several times now in the past few months. Usually seems to be after I've been driving for awhile and off for several minutes. At first, I've waited a bit and started up with no problems. Lately, in frustration, I tried to turn the steering wheel slightly back and forth, while in park, to see the effects. Usually, this is when I seem to get a connection, and it starts right up.

I couldn't find this "trick" explained here. Does this sound like a faulty or loose ignition switch?
 

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