FJ62 Rear Brake Job

[kenleyf]

Any helpful hints on replacing the rear shoes on an FJ 62?

I have accomplished removal of the drums but the rest of the job seems to have the potential of being tricky.

Are there any tools that might make this more simple? Is there an order by which I need to remove all of the moving parts?

I own an FSM so I will consult it but typicall there is not enough detail for a novice like me.

Thanks for any advice or helpful tips.

Kenley

 

[Man Jerk]

Brake spring removal tool will help.

It really isn't rocket science. There are lots of pieces, and lots of springs to go flying. Go ahead and get a new hardware kit with all new springs etc while you are in there.

Do only one side at a time and use the opposite side for referance.

You may have a couple of head scratching moments, but any slightly capable shade tree mechanic will be able to figure it out.

Only one way to do it.....jump in.

Good Luck!

 

[CruisinFJ60]

one side at a time if your first time (you can do only one at a time anyway if only you are doing the work unless you have a clone) its a stupid easy job not nearly as complicated as some other drums i have seen.

oh clean your bell cranks real good with a good stiff wire brush and fill em full of grease and crank em in and out all the way a few times. does wonders for once seized bell cranks.

mine were seized up so bad it took a vise and channel locks to break em loose now they adjust perfectly as if brand new when e-brake is pulled. even after it being wheeled in mud, water, and whatever else a couple times.

 

[WES1977]

I would think you need some kind of high heat grease like molly?

oh clean your bell cranks real good with a good stiff wire brush and fill em full of grease and crank em in and out all the way a few times. does wonders for once seized bell cranks.

i'm working on mine right now and have really never messed with drums either. I'm just trying to get the parking brake to work. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/201303-e-brak-wont-disengage.html

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I would think you need some kind of high heat grease like molly?

naw where the bellcranks sit they arnt exposed to as much heat and on top of that the drums dont get even half as hot as the front rotors so again no worries. and even if they did some grease is better than no grease.
all the grease i use is all high temp and is also highly insoluable in water (water resistant) grease.

 

[NJTaco]

Any helpful hints on replacing the rear shoes on an FJ 62?

Not Toyota specific, but check under the dust boots on the wheel cylinders for brake fluid...if they are wet, they are leaking and need replaced. I just replaced mine tonight with factory Toyota. They were the same price from Cruiser Dan as the Wagner or Bendix product would have been, and I can always rebuild the old ones as spares for "someday". They also fit like they were made to be there...'cause they were.

Be careful, and have fun!

 

[kenleyf]

Thanks for the help and advice. I replaced the cylinders while I was in there but I used all old springs. I will replace them the next time I am in there. The project went well with one exception.

My e-brake no longer works now. I have tried adjusting it but I am obviously doing something wrong. Any help on getting the e-brake back working?

Thanks again.
Kenley

 

[2mbb]

Are the shoes adjusted properly? If they are too loose, then the parking brake won't work.

The parking brake assembly inside the drum consists of the parking brake lever, a cable and pulley and the bell crank. On one end of the cable is a stop and on the other end an eye. The stop fits in the bottom of the parking brake lever. The eye hooks onto the end of the bell crank. There are two rings in the middle of the cable. Each ring should fit into a notch in the pulley. All these parts should be free to rotate. Also there is an adjustment screw on the part of the bell crank that is outside the backing plate where the main parking brake cable attaches. The adjustment is described in the FSM.

 

[smtyblt]

As far as the grease goes the best thing to use is Marine grade anti-sieze.

It works the best and will last the longest.

Use this on both the bell crank and the self adjuster.

also the proper adjustment per toyota is adjust the shoes till the tire will not move freely and then make it one or two clicks tighter. According to Toyota this is a seating proceedure and will in length make your brakes work better and last longer.

 

[cruiserpants]

If you have no E brake now, but had it before, then it is either an install error or needs a simple adjustment.

1- Inside the rear brake assembly the park brake cable should run under a small pulley and on to the park brake lever - this is easy to mess up. The only way to know for sure is to pull the drums and have a look. Compare it to the diagram above.

2- After you get both sides put back together, adjust up the brake adjuster on each side (helps to have a brake adjuster tool). After a few turns (but not tight), have someone step on the brakes. This will help center and seat the brake shoes to the drum. Then (as smtyblt stated above) turn the adjuster until you can just hear them touch and drag the on the drum as you spin the wheel, then turn the adjuster + two clicks tighter (which is not much).
You don’t want them too tight as it will cause your linings to crack.

 

[kenleyf]

Thanks all for the helpful advice. I do think it is an adjustment issue given what you all have suggested. I will adjust and let you know the progress.

In order to get the adjustment as described by Smtyblt do I have to adjust with the drum on and by way of the small hole in the backing plate? There must be a trick to that process because I had to do that to get the drums off and it was painstaking.

Thanks again!!
Kenley

 

[2mbb]

Thanks all for the helpful advice. I do think it is an adjustment issue given what you all have suggested. I will adjust and let you know the progress.

In order to get the adjustment as described by Smtyblt do I have to adjust with the drum on and by way of the small hole in the backing plate? There must be a trick to that process because I had to do that to get the drums off and it was painstaking.

Thanks again!!
Kenley

This is how I do the initial adjustment of the brake drums. I install the drums and tire on the truck, with the tire lifted off the ground. Using the oval access hole tighten the adjuting wheel until you can't turn the tire by hand (as I'm tightening, I move the tire back and forth to make sure the brake shoes are centering. Once the brakes are tight, I then loosen them six or seven clicks on the adjusting wheel. At this point the tire should spin easily by hand.

To tighten the adjusting wheel you only need one tool. turn the inboard edge of the wheel up. When you go to loosen the adjusting wheel you will need to use two tools, one to push the self-adjusting lever outboard and the other to turn the inboard edge of the adjusting wheel down.

Good Luck.

 

[kenleyf]

Pardon me for being confused by one of you is saying tighten until the tire will not move (Post #9) and the other is saying the tire should move freely.

The FSM says there should be a .6mm clearance between the shoes and the drum. Please help me clear up the confusion. Is it a preference thing?

Thanks for all the help.
Kenley

 

[smtyblt]

Pardon me for being confused by one of you is saying tighten until the tire will not move (Post #9) and the other is saying the tire should move freely.

The FSM says there should be a .6mm clearance between the shoes and the drum. Please help me clear up the confusion. Is it a preference thing?

Thanks for all the help.
Kenley

Brake adjustment like alot of things with these trucks IS a preference adjustment but the method above I previously wrote is the correct way to get the .6mm of clearance.

When adjusting you do not make it so tight you cant turn it just make it tight enough that it drags and will not spin freely. then two more clicks tighter and you are there. The lever actuated by the parking brake will take care of the rest.

Cam

 

[2mbb]

Here's the adjustment procedure from the FSM. Since applying the parking brake should tighten the rear brakes, having them a little loose to start is probably OK. This procedure doesn't recommend having the brakes so tight that the wheel doesn't spin freely.

 

[smtyblt]

No it just says Locks

I just know that is how it is supposed to be done.

We do this all day long everyday. And that is the best procedure. if you do not get this correct on the 40's or the 60's the rear brakes do not work properly.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

No it just says Locks

I just know that is how it is supposed to be done.

We do this all day long everyday. And that is the best procedure. if you do not get this correct on the 40's or the 60's the rear brakes do not work properly.

true that every time i go wheeling and its muddy and im having to brake alot it eats my rear shoes alive and for the next couple days im pullin the e-brake lever at all the lights i stop at so it will adjust and give be a good pedal feel again. i do that as im to lazy to crawl under my truck and adjust it by hand besides thats what the adjuster are for anyway and it helps keep em working

 

[Devils Paw 80]

As far as the grease goes the best thing to use is Marine grade anti-sieze.

It works the best and will last the longest.

Use this on both the bell crank and the self adjuster.

Thanks for the tip.I've torn into mine today also-what a mess. Bell cranks totally siezed up here too, and I don't think either wheel cylinder has been working for awhile. On one side, the shoes look practically new, so that side hasn't been working for quite awhile. On the other side, one shoe has a couple of cracks in it. Although the cracks don't go the entire width of the shoe, should I replace? Otherwise, there's still alot of lining left.
Edit: Never mind, I'll be replacing those shoes.

 

[65fj40_steve]

I did the rear shoes on my FJ62 a couple of weeks ago. Every thing seamed to go fine untill a couple of days later the left rear brake shoes locked on. I pulled that side apart again and discovered the inner E-brake cable was not sitting in the pulley correctly and had jambed the shoes.:whoops: I fixed the left side and thought it would be wise to check the right side to see if I had made the same mistake. Well, the right side cable was ok but I noticed a small amount of fluid around the wheel cylinder (it was ok a couple of days before). I ended up renewing both rear cylinders and reassembling it all. The wheel cylinders where dirt cheap AU$13.30 ea.